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P3 CCK


Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,958
Total Points: 191
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 456 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 9 | Stars 204 | Ratings 174
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6) : Photo
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with how the routes are marked in this photo. Certainly that's the right line for The Last Will be First.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Amber Waves of Pain (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: P2 has some really nice climbing, but don't get fooled by the 9++ description. It's hard to read on-sight, I think harder than P1. Like Eric said above, if you fall from the top of the crux, watch that ankle. I was fortunate enough to only get it banged up (along with rope burn and bruises;)

Fixed brown tricam protects the P2 crux though you can back it up with as much bomber gear as you want.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Such excellent climbing! The second crux is commiting but the first of the three moves is the hardest so just keep going. It's well protected by a mid-sized cam (or two if you're like me).

The variation Ivan speaks about (continue left up the arching corner instead of straight up the big moves towards MF anchors) is called Mother Bird in the new gunks app and rated 5.10d. It's a nice couple of fun moves, more like 10b than 10d.

I'm always confused about which way through the roof is Birdie Par... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Right, Groovy Direct and Space Invaders Direct are two different lines. Confusion is added by the Gunks App which shows Space Invaders Direct as Space Invaders.

Any consensus on the grade for Space Invaders Direct? I felt it easier than 10d. Gear is pumpy to place and a bit spaced but very solid and the fall is clean.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Vultures (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The gunks app has P3 at 5.5 and that's about right. In any case it is dirty and I don't recommend it. A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Face to Face (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: P2 is asthetic, easy to read and very well protected. I'd recommend it as a good entry level 5.10 gunks roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7)
By: Pawel When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Small cams (C3s) useful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a climb!!

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Sweet route, gear a bit strenuous to place at the crux but I agree with previous comments that this is G.

For the top part, if you place a good cam at the ledge and you blow the "pebbles" move, you'll have a long but clean fall past the ledge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Pawel When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: This comment is for anyone for whom, like for me, this is the first climb ever in the Valley. After reading all the previous comments about how deadly slick this one is, I was aghast. Well, turns out this one's got more friction than pretty much anything else you've ever climbed in your life, especially if you've been on basalt or limestone. I guess standards of "slick" and "greasy" vary from place to place:)

Fun first pitch!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Good description from Peter Lewis but I wouldn't call it R: there's good gear in the horizontal just before the 2 harder moves. Not so good gear after that but it's there hence PG-13 sounds right. Upper hands crack is awesome. One of my favorite 5.7 for sure!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Balrog (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: The start is fun, maybe 5.7, but yes it is a high-ball with little gear possibility. Crux is fun but literally one move. Above the crux, staying out of the small right facing corner and moving straight up the face makes for a more interesting and consistent route in my opinion.

Also, this route is to the right of Wild Horses, but MP has it left of Raunchy so maybe an admin could fix that in the order listing? Got it - thanks! JSH


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Gorgonzola (5.12a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: It's just a few face moves, but really nice. I thought it was hard even for 12a.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 14 (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Careful with some loose rock. Well protected. Fun combination of layback, crack and fun face crux.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 10 (5.10)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: A very "creative" climb. But fun. Well protected except the first 15 feet.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Easy Air (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Really nice route. Going through the final overhangs is exciting. Poorly placed anchor though.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : MoFo (5.11d)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: July 2014 there is a wasp's nest under the roof just next to the crux. I can confirm that there are wasps and that they do sting.

This route is really nice, beautiful throughout. Felt easy for an 11 but I'm tall.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Rejuvenating Facial (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: After the ugly start, much better than it looks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Elephant Butte : Standard (West Fins) (5.3)
By: Pawel When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: 50m suffices. Have fun. Awesome awesome outing!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: The rappel option Justin Compton speaks about is also good for a 60m. You'll have to very easily downclimb the last 7 or 8 feet, and it's a single rappel. Better than rappeling down Ursula over parties that are coming up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Teeny Face (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Very beautiful face climbing.


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