Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
P3 CCK


Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Pawel


Point Rank: # 2,799
Total Points: 184
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 12
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Pawel been climbing?










Contributions


All 386 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 34 | Posts 9 | Stars 170 | Ratings 145
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sweet route, gear a bit strenuous to place at the crux but I agree with previous comments that this is G.

For the top part, if you place a good cam at the ledge and you blow the "pebbles" move, you'll have a long but clean fall past the ledge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Pawel When: Nov 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This comment is for anyone for whom, like for me, this is the first climb ever in the Valley. After reading all the previous comments about how deadly slick this one is, I was aghast. Well, turns out this one's got more friction than pretty much anything else you've ever climbed in your life, especially if you've been on basalt or limestone. I guess standards of "slick" and "greasy" vary from place to place:)

Fun first pitch!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good description from Peter Lewis but I wouldn't call it R: there's good gear in the horizontal just before the 2 harder moves. Not so good gear after that but it's there hence PG-13 sounds right. Upper hands crack is awesome. One of my favorite 5.7 for sure!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Balrog (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The start is fun, maybe 5.7, but yes it is a high-ball with little gear possibility. Crux is fun but literally one move. Above the crux, staying out of the small right facing corner and moving straight up the face makes for a more interesting and consistent route in my opinion.

Also, this route is to the right of Wild Horses, but MP has it left of Raunchy so maybe an admin could fix that in the order listing? Got it - thanks! JSH


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Gorgonzola (5.12a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It's just a few face moves, but really nice. I thought it was hard even for 12a.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 14 (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Careful with some loose rock. Well protected. Fun combination of layback, crack and fun face crux.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 10 (5.10)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A very "creative" climb. But fun. Well protected except the first 15 feet.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Easy Air (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Really nice route. Going through the final overhangs is exciting. Poorly placed anchor though.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : MoFo (5.11d)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: July 2014 there is a wasp's nest under the roof just next to the crux. I can confirm that there are wasps and that they do sting.

This route is really nice, beautiful throughout. Felt easy for an 11 but I'm tall.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Rejuvenating Facial (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After the ugly start, much better than it looks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Elephant Butte : Standard (West Fins) (5.3)
By: Pawel When: Jul 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 50m suffices. Have fun. Awesome awesome outing!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The rappel option Justin Compton speaks about is also good for a 60m. You'll have to very easily downclimb the last 7 or 8 feet, and it's a single rappel. Better than rappeling down Ursula over parties that are coming up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Teeny Face (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Very beautiful face climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Insuhlation (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Obstacle Delusion (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: By far one of the best 5.9 at the Gunks and one of my favorite lines period: a cool roof problem followed by thought-provoking, sustained 5.8ish moves to the top. Much more interesting than its sister, Insulhation.

I don't understand the PG13 rating though. The entire climb is super well-protected with cams and c3's. G in my book.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Pawel When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch is absolutely fantastic! If you climb it right, you can avoid some of the dangers (avoid flakes mentioned by SethG and don't fall on the 5.5 traverse at the start of P2- find the good crimps and solid feet) but make sure both leader and follower are solid.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Pawel When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If you're unsure of where it goes, the description in Dick Williams is very precise. Gear is excellent throughout (I used all cams) but small at the roof. Don't miss P2: short but very fun traverse before heading up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : BB Route (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Mar 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Careful not to grab the big loose block in the niche under the big roof.

Otherwise, a great short route that gets sun in the afternoon.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice route.

Don't mind sandbags but this one feels harder than Snooky's, Farewell to Arms, P1 Son of Easy O, Pas de Deaux... On par with The Spring, P3 Keep on Struttin, P1 Wasp... In sum, to each his own but in my book this one's 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Keep on Struttin' (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P2-P3 linkup makes for a super-classic climb that reminds me of Arrow only harder: steep roofy section followed by fun technical climbing in beautiful white rock and a fun memorable finishing move.

Didn't feel the middle section of P2 was very run out (purple C4 sits well after the first little roof) though a bit strenuous to place gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Scenic Adult (5.11c)
By: Pawel When: Oct 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I'd rather say the crux is getting up into the second roof (the so-called "mini-crux" in one of the photos). The roof traverse and slab around the corner are thought-provoking but not hard.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>