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P3 CCK


Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,300
Total Points: 137
Last Year: 130
Last 30 Days: 117
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 308 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvments | Comments 27 | Posts 5 | Stars 139 | Ratings 116
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Gorgonzola (5.12a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: It's just a few face moves, but really nice. I thought it was hard even for 12a.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 14 (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Careful with some loose rock. Well protected. Fun combination of layback, crack and fun face crux.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 10 (5.10)
By: Pawel When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: A very "creative" climb. But fun. Well protected except the first 15 feet.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Easy Air (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Really nice route. Going through the final overhangs is exciting. Poorly placed anchor though.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : MoFo (5.11d)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: July 2014 there is a wasp's nest under the roof just next to the crux. I can confirm that there are wasps and that they do sting.

This route is really nice, beautiful throughout. Felt easy for an 11 but I'm tall.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Pecos River Canyon : Cathedral Rock : Rejuvenating Facial (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: After the ugly start, much better than it looks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Elephant Butte : Standard (West Fins) (5.3)
By: Pawel When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: 50m suffices. Have fun. Awesome awesome outing!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: The rappel option Justin Compton speaks about is also good for a 60m. You'll have to very easily downclimb the last 7 or 8 feet, and it's a single rappel. Better than rappeling down Ursula over parties that are coming up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Teeny Face (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Very beautiful face climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Insuhlation (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Obstacle Delusion (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: By far one of the best 5.9 at the Gunks and one of my favorite lines period: a cool roof problem followed by thought-provoking, sustained 5.8ish moves to the top. Much more interesting than its sister, Insulhation.

I don't understand the PG13 rating though. The entire climb is super well-protected with cams and c3's. G in my book.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Pawel When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Second pitch is absolutely fantastic! If you climb it right, you can avoid some of the dangers (avoid flakes mentioned by SethG and don't fall on the 5.5 traverse at the start of P2- find the good crimps and solid feet) but make sure both leader and follower are solid.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Pawel When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: If you're unsure of where it goes, the description in Dick Williams is very precise. Gear is excellent throughout (I used all cams) but small at the roof. Don't miss P2: short but very fun traverse before heading up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : BB Route (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Careful not to grab the big loose block in the niche under the big roof.

Otherwise, a great short route that gets sun in the afternoon.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Very nice route.

Don't mind sandbags but this one feels harder than Snooky's, Farewell to Arms, P1 Son of Easy O, Pas de Deaux... On par with The Spring, P3 Keep on Struttin, P1 Wasp... In sum, to each his own but in my book this one's 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Keep on Struttin' (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: P2-P3 linkup makes for a super-classic climb that reminds me of Arrow only harder: steep roofy section followed by fun technical climbing in beautiful white rock and a fun memorable finishing move.

Didn't feel the middle section of P2 was very run out (purple C4 sits well after the first little roof) though a bit strenuous to place gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Scenic Adult (5.11c)
By: Pawel When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I'd rather say the crux is getting up into the second roof (the so-called "mini-crux" in one of the photos). The roof traverse and slab around the corner are thought-provoking but not hard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: Pawel When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: It would be good to clarify the start of this route. Crux is half-way up if starting a little to the right of the first bolt. Direct start up to 1st bolt is I'd say about 11d.

Having said that, this is one of the best (and longest) 1 pitch 11s I've ever done.Excellent!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Mission Statement (5.10c/d)
By: Pawel When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Fun technical crux. Compared to the other routes here, I didn't think it's greasy at all. At least not the footholds. Ditto on the loose rock near the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: What a creative route! But in all fairness, I think the overhang move on the last pitch is solid 5.9 for short people (short being less than 6 feet).

Single rope beta: either split it up in three pitches or run it out from the tree to the nose where the crux starts. Otherwise, the rope drag will spoil the very fun crux.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Gun Wall : Sudetica Verticalia (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: I and others thought it was hard for the grade. Surprisingly pumpy.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Satisfaction Wall : Lickty Split (5.9)
By: Pawel When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: May 2013 the hanger was back.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Scuttlebutt (5.5)
By: Pawel When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: A nice P1 variaton start in the Swain guide is Payton Paltz: start to the left of regular route under the big roof 15 above the ground. Up to roof, undercling traverse left, surmount overhang at notch to join Scuttlebutt at the arete. Nice and fun 5.9, excellent gear, easy to scout out from ground. Great for a budding 5.9 leader.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Woolly Clam Taco (5.10b/c R)
By: Pawel When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Is this a different climb from "Earth Girls Are Easy" in Todd Swain's guide? From description seems to be the same except that Swain has you traverse to the Eastertime anchors at the top.


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