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Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 11,037
Total Points: 15
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas are worth 15
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All (215) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (15) | Posts (1) | Stars (108) | Ratings (91)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Pawel When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you're unsure of where it goes, the description in Dick Williams is very precise. Gear is excellent throughout (I used all cams) but small at the roof. Don't miss P2: short but very fun traverse before heading up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : BB Route (5.8+)
By: Pawel When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Careful not to grab the big loose block in the niche under the big roof.

Otherwise, a great short route that gets sun in the afternoon.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Very nice route.

Don't mind sandbags but this one feels harder than Snooky's, Farewell to Arms, P1 Son of Easy O, Pas de Deaux... On par with The Spring, P3 Keep on Struttin, P1 Wasp... In sum, to each his own but in my book this one's 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Keep on Struttin' (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: P2-P3 linkup makes for a super-classic climb that reminds me of Arrow only harder: steep roofy section followed by fun technical climbing in beautiful white rock and a fun memorable finishing move.

Didn't feel the middle section of P2 was very run out (purple C4 sits well after the first little roof) though a bit strenuous to place gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Scenic Adult (5.11c)
By: Pawel When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I'd rather say the crux is getting up into the second roof (the so-called "mini-crux" in one of the photos). The roof traverse and slab around the corner are thought-provoking but not hard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: Pawel When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: It would be good to clarify the start of this route. Crux is half-way up if starting a little to the right of the first bolt. Direct start up to 1st bolt is I'd say about 11d.

Having said that, this is one of the best (and longest) 1 pitch 11s I've ever done.Excellent!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Mission Statement (5.10c/d)
By: Pawel When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Fun technical crux. Compared to the other routes here, I didn't think it's greasy at all. At least not the footholds. Ditto on the loose rock near the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: What a creative route! But in all fairness, I think the overhang move on the last pitch is solid 5.9 for short people (short being less than 6 feet).

Single rope beta: either split it up in three pitches or run it out from the tree to the nose where the crux starts. Otherwise, the rope drag will spoil the very fun crux.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Gun Wall : Sudetica Verticalia (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: I and others thought it was hard for the grade. Surprisingly pumpy.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Satisfaction Wall : Lickty Split (5.9)
By: Pawel When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: May 2013 the hanger was back.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Scuttlebutt (5.5)
By: Pawel When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: A nice P1 variaton start in the Swain guide is Payton Paltz: start to the left of regular route under the big roof 15 above the ground. Up to roof, undercling traverse left, surmount overhang at notch to join Scuttlebutt at the arete. Nice and fun 5.9, excellent gear, easy to scout out from ground. Great for a budding 5.9 leader.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Woolly Clam Taco (5.10b/c R)
By: Pawel When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Is this a different climb from "Earth Girls Are Easy" in Todd Swain's guide? From description seems to be the same except that Swain has you traverse to the Eastertime anchors at the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Broken Sling (5.8+ PG13)
By: Pawel When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Spiro: once you get the jug, which is two moves off the ground, you can place solid gear in the corner. The scary traverse is well protected with C3's. Interesting climbing all the way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Farewell to Arms (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Incredible variety on such a short pitch. You can protect the first scary move by placing a piece high in the inside corner and extending with a long sling.

Once you grab the horizontal beneath the roof it's all easy jugs but don't forget to protect the second as you move out left.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Bay Area partner needed march 14thNorthern CaliforniaPawelMar 4, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Ken's Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

The Summer 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R

NY : The Gunks : ... : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar...

Directissima 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Double Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar...

MF 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Birdland 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

South Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Pingora

East Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Wolfs Head

Modern Times 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Preparation H 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Rico Suave Buttress

Bonnie's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

CCK Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Strictly From Nowhere 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Apoplexy 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Annie Oh! 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Community Effort 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Fucoidal Quartzite

Begging For Bolts 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Fucoidal Quartzite

Feast of Fools 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Hans' Puss 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Arrow 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Limelight 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Shockley's Ceiling 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Snooky's Return 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Out of the Bag 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Rico Suave Buttress

Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

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