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trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 3, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 40 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 4 | Posts | Stars 16 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Paully When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: looks better than some of the great Fisher Towers cam placements. It's even creepier out there when your cam starts grind it's way out! I also learned a fun lesson about placing TCUs in soft rock out there: they'll hold for a few minutes and then shear out unexpectedly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Paully When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: after a storm last week, a large block that used to be part of pitch 3 fell over and is looming over the chimney. It was the block that formed a crack along the arete that you could plug a cam in. It is not the block that was mentioned in the previous post. It is about 2ft by 2ft by 8ft boulder. There is now a 20ft run-out from the belay ledge to the first bolt. You are looking at probably a factor 2 fall with your rope dragging over the ridge and the new chock-stone if you pull off any of th... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Limestoned (5.10d)
By: Paully When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: I think the crux is height dependent, I struggled with it for a while until my buddy found the trick to the crux, huge undercling left gets you to the deep pocket below the 6th bolt, which is a 5.10d/5.11a move we thought.


Location: WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love : Steamy Loving (5.11a/b)
By: Paully When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Felt easier than 5.11, maybe 5.10c/d. One of the anchor bolts was loose on this one too.