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trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: Mar 26, 2013
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Point Rank: # 5,439
Total Points: 49
Last Year: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
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Paully

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (40) | Routes (1) | Areas (1) | Photos (4) | Comments (4) | Posts | Stars (16) | Ratings (14)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Train Tracks to the Top (FA)

5.9 (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet, Grade II

MT : Gorge Lakes

Jul 15, 2009

Contributed Areas

Name Location  Useful To  Date

Gorge Lakes

MT

Jul 15, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk

trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Sep 22, 2009

NW ridge of Tweedy

NW ridge of Tweedy

MT : Gorge Lakes

Jul 15, 2009

Gorge Lakes Spire, Train Tracks to the Top goes up the right face of the left summit. The right face of the right summit has potential, though no solid crack lines lead up it.

Gorge Lakes Spire, Train Tracks to the Top goes up the right face of the left summit. The right face of the right summit has potential, though no solid crack lines lead up it.

MT : Gorge Lakes : Train Tracks to the Top (5.9)

Jul 15, 2009

onsighting Steamy Loving on a nice May day

onsighting Steamy Loving on a nice May day

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

Jun 3, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Paully When: Mar 21, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: looks better than some of the great Fisher Towers cam placements. It's even creepier out there when your cam starts grind it's way out! I also learned a fun lesson about placing TCUs in soft rock out there: they'll hold for a few minutes and then shear out unexpectedly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Paully When: Mar 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: after a storm last week, a large block that used to be part of pitch 3 fell over and is looming over the chimney. It was the block that formed a crack along the arete that you could plug a cam in. It is not the block that was mentioned in the previous post. It is about 2ft by 2ft by 8ft boulder. There is now a 20ft run-out from the belay ledge to the first bolt. You are looking at probably a factor 2 fall with your rope dragging over the ridge and the new chock-stone if you pull off any of th... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Limestoned (5.10d)
By: Paully When: Jul 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I think the crux is height dependent, I struggled with it for a while until my buddy found the trick to the crux, huge undercling left gets you to the deep pocket below the 6th bolt, which is a 5.10d/5.11a move we thought.


Location: WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love : Steamy Loving (5.11a/b)
By: Paully When: May 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Felt easier than 5.11, maybe 5.10c/d. One of the anchor bolts was loose on this one too.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Red as a Blooming Rose 5.10c

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central

Novacaine 5.8

UT : Uinta Mountains : Scout Lake

Broken Tree 5.10b

WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress...

Mecca 5.11c

UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall

American Express 5.11-

WY : Tongue River Canyon : Happy Trails

Fuzz 5.10 PG13

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Knapping With The Alien 5.12-

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Right Chimney 5.10+

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Three Penguins

Unknown Bumblie 5.11b/c

ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock

Just Say No 5.9- PG13

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Elephant Rock - East

Columbian Crack 5.7

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Elephant Rock - East

School's Out 5.10+

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Wired Me Awake 5.11a/b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land aka Beer Bong Wa...

Train Tracks to the Top 5.9

MT : Gorge Lakes

Steamy Loving 5.11a/b

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

Roll in the Hay 5.11a

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Knapping With The Alien

5.12-

5.11d

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Unknown Bumblie

5.11b/c

5.11c R

ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock

Wired Me Awake

5.11a/b

5.11a/b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land aka Beer Bong Wa...

Limestoned

5.10d

5.11a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone

American Express

5.11-

5.11a

WY : Tongue River Canyon : Happy Trails

Red as a Blooming Rose

5.10c

5.10d

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central

Steamy Loving

5.11a/b

5.10c/d

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

School's Out

5.10+

5.10+

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Fuzz

5.10 PG13

5.10

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

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