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trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: Oct 12, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 40 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts | Stars 16 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Train Tracks to the Top (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 150'

MT : Gorge Lakes

Jul 15, 2009

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Gorge Lakes

MT

Jul 15, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk

trying to pull the roof move on a short route labeled 5.12a in chalk

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Sep 22, 2009

NW ridge of Tweedy

NW ridge of Tweedy

MT : Gorge Lakes

Jul 15, 2009

Gorge Lakes Spire, Train Tracks to the Top goes up the right face of the left summit. The right face of the right summit has potential, though no solid crack lines lead up it.

Gorge Lakes Spire, Train Tracks to the Top goes up the right face of the left summit. The right face of the right summit has potential, though no solid crack lines lead up it.

MT : Gorge Lakes : Train Tracks to the Top (5.9)

Jul 15, 2009

onsighting Steamy Loving on a nice May day

onsighting Steamy Loving on a nice May day

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

Jun 3, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Paully When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: looks better than some of the great Fisher Towers cam placements. It's even creepier out there when your cam starts grind it's way out! I also learned a fun lesson about placing TCUs in soft rock out there: they'll hold for a few minutes and then shear out unexpectedly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Paully When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: after a storm last week, a large block that used to be part of pitch 3 fell over and is looming over the chimney. It was the block that formed a crack along the arete that you could plug a cam in. It is not the block that was mentioned in the previous post. It is about 2ft by 2ft by 8ft boulder. There is now a 20ft run-out from the belay ledge to the first bolt. You are looking at probably a factor 2 fall with your rope dragging over the ridge and the new chock-stone if you pull off any of th... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Limestoned (5.10d)
By: Paully When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: I think the crux is height dependent, I struggled with it for a while until my buddy found the trick to the crux, huge undercling left gets you to the deep pocket below the 6th bolt, which is a 5.10d/5.11a move we thought.


Location: WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love : Steamy Loving (5.11a/b)
By: Paully When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Felt easier than 5.11, maybe 5.10c/d. One of the anchor bolts was loose on this one too.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Red as a Blooming Rose 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...

Novacaine 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

UT : Uinta Mountains : Scout Lake

Broken Tree 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress...

Mecca 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall

American Express 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

WY : Tongue River Canyon : Happy Trails

Fuzz 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Knapping With The Alien 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Right Chimney 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Three Penguins

Unknown Bumblie 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock

Just Say No 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Elephant Rock - East

Columbian Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Elephant Rock - East

School's Out 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Wired Me Awake 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land

Train Tracks to the Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

MT : Gorge Lakes

Steamy Loving 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

Roll in the Hay 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Knapping With The Alien

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Unknown Bumblie

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock

Wired Me Awake

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land

Limestoned

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone

American Express

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

WY : Tongue River Canyon : Happy Trails

Red as a Blooming Rose

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...

Steamy Loving

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

WY : Steamboat Point : The Wall of Love

School's Out

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Fuzz

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

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