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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Bearclaw (5.10c PG13)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice slab climb! Very thin through the first 4 bolts with crux is at climbing past 4th bolt. Dicey stance to clip crux bolt. I grabbed the sling to clip the rope as I thought I was about to slip off. Fell at crux and just kept same stance with all 4 points touching and slid in that same position till rope caught my fall. Fun fall! The route does ease after 4th bolt but still fun upper steep wall for a few moves. I climbed the face as much as possible above but was able to get much de... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Schoolhouse Rock : Mary's Crack (5.8)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We weren't sure where to go on the second pitch so we tried the left crack of the two cracks in the middle of the steep headwall about 40' left of the correct corner for Mary's second pitch. It was quite hard but fun. Awkward start to get into crack system, then good buckets to place gear and then a couple hard finger/hand jams through the steep short crack above. Anyone know what this is? I would say hard 9 - 10b. I'm not good at judging this type of climbing as I am just no good at it...
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could anyone tell me if there is any good place to camp this time of year around Donner? Most campgrounds are open May through October. Forest Land is ok to "dispense" camp but where/how does one find a good area that's not private and that is accessible. You do need a fire permit (free) from the park service/visitor center if you plan to cook or have a fire. Thanks!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Main Rock : Left Slab (5.11d R)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zeke,
Just curious as to how you do the moves from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt... I hope I'm not off route but here is what I do... Standing at the 2nd bolt there is a left facing good edge on the right. I grab this with left hand leaning to the right. I move right foot up onto an obvious good hold and stand up reaching high to the right for a right facing little corner/edge. I use left foot under little roof to hold body and and move left hand up to left facing corner/edge. Now I can reach up... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I thought it was taken from the air! Haven't been up there for a few years. Have to get back!
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a long runout! Is that necessary? Is gear that hard to place? Cool looking route and cool shot! Just took a good look and see the piece about 10' below the climber. Still a long ways between gear...
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot Mike! Where/how did you take it?
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Beaver Street Wall
By: Paul Rezucha When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally took the time to check out this little climbing wall just to see what it looks like. The AC directions are a little misleading as AC forgot to mention the left turn onto Beaver Street. After you turn right onto Noe Street from Market Street you take your first left turn on Beaver Street. Follow Beaver Street for a full block and cross Castro Street (I saw a sign that said Divisadero Street which is what Castro Street turns into a few blocks to the north). Continue up the steep Beave... more >>
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Aid Crack (5.10)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed here years ago after college. I led a route in the middle of the face on the North End. I remember climbing up about 15-20' to a small horizontal crack and placed one or two small stoppers. The remaining face to the top had no gear and was quite thin. Anyone know what this route is? I would think it's 5.9 or so. I had two terribly sprained thumbs and couldn't use them at all. Difficult face climbing as I always wrap my thumbs around and on top of index fingers when crimping.
A ... more >>
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Location: CO : Carbondale : Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Slab from Hell
By: Paul Rezucha When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello,
I will be driving through on my way to Boulder and would really like to check this area out. I will be traveling with my 11 year old and want to climb something that is 5.2-5.8, safe, and with a walk off decent. Can anyone recommend climbs like this? Could be short or long but safe. I am experience but my son has only climbed in gyms but belays very well!
Thanks!
Paul
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Egghead (5.11b R)
By: Paul Rezucha When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haven't been here in awhile but I was wondering if the boulder that slid down could be somehow moved and slid lower. I know it's huge but maybe with a little digging and a crowbar, it could be maneuvered. Is this even ethical? Just throwing it out there. I really enjoyed working the original first moves...
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall : The Verdict (direct) (5.11b) : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm... Does the belayer know his partner has started climbing? Good shot. Looks like a nice climb!
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Location: Blitzo : Nevada-The Silver State : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there climbing here? Is it legal to go there? Thanks!
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Location: Blitzo : Old Random Climbing Photos : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this area of Cave Rock still open to climbing?
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Location: Blitzo : Miscellaneous Photos : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where south of JT? Looks very pretty!
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Location: Blitzo : Miscellaneous Photos : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are these arches common? I've never seen one and it is pretty cool!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : O.R.G.asam (5.11a)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Russ,
Is it okay to use trad gear to supplement bolts if you feel they are a bit too far apart? Thanks!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Lizard Head
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not an easy rock to find. We ended up bushwacking a lot. Anyone have better directions to get here? It is a very nice looking rock!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c) : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had trouble making this move work so I went out left on a balancy move to one of the little black knobs shown and then a stretch to the big knob above. I think it may be more straightforward (less awkward). A fun route but hard once you get to the end of the knobs... I should say a bit hard and scary as I didn't have the right gear and it was committing to get to the good holds and gear placement.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this move mandatory?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this taken? Looks like fun!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was this photo taken from a plane? I just took photos from the Tollhouse Road from below and they weren't as good as this! Great photo!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this and Mickey's Beach Crack. It's great to see photos of these lost climbs!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That pad looks likes an awfully small landing/target...
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