Comments: Did it a third time yesterday. Had great weather and only saw one other party all day. Was quickly reminded of the "reality" of this climb, but man it's fun.
Comments: I agree that the "crux" isn't particularly strenuous- in fact I strained more on the first few moves off the ground. Just squeeze it a little and recall the womb. :) It also looked to me like a good call to skip the upper pitches, so we did- there is now a beefy fixed cable with a rap link just above and left of the end of the first pitch on the left side of a large ledge- can easily reach the ground from there with a 60m, and of course the anchor above curving crack. Enjoy.
Comments: If you think wider is better, try doing the "move left down the ledge and go up a corner system" pitch one pitch too soon (where you're clearly supposed to do the finger crack). You'll soon find yourself in a short awkward flared chimney with a piton near the top that exits onto the ledge just below the normal P4 anchor. Probably 7+ or 8 compared with some of the chimneys at Lumpy.