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Member Since: Oct 9, 2007
Last Visit: Nov 6, 2009
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Point Rank: # 6,742
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Paul Gagner

 
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All (9) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (4) | Posts (3) | Stars (1) | Ratings (1)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R)
By: Paul Gagner When: Apr 4, 2009

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Comments: Great route.

Recommended gear:

1x set small cams
3x Camalots #1 - 3, 1x #3.5 - 5
A few stoppers and large HB off-sets
Rivet Hangers
Lots of shoulder lengthers
Jeremy used some large Peckers and a few sawed-offs on the 5th pitch

Bring a bolt kit - we had to replace one sheared bolt on the last pitch to the ridge

There are good anchors dropping straight down from the shoulder / ridge(end of pitch 7) Don't go to the side, just 3 raps straight down.

Paul



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Paul Gagner When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Hey Sam - Long time no see. Hope you are well. Yes, I figured that was what you guys did. Someone is going to epic on it so it may be prudent for a future party to try and straighten out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Paul Gagner When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: Tom Dickey and I climbed this route on October 14, 2007. The rap anchor at the top of the 7th pitch needs to be fixed - it's in a terrible place. We left a draw with a roller biner on it to facilitate pulling - which helped tremendously. Someone should move the shoulder anchor over so you can rap straight down to the top of the 6th pitch. We left a 7mil fixed on the 7th pitch.

Our recommended rack was:

8x rivet hangers
1x stoppers - mostly med-lrg
1x #5 HB offset
1x Tcu's - nothing t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Paul Gagner When: Oct 9, 2007

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Comments: Chris - Orange Metolius TCU in seam down and right of the hole, then bolt w/out hanger.

Soloed this route on 10/7/07.

Solo rack:
6x rivet hangers
2x Camalots 0.5 to 3
1x 3.5 Camalot (optional, could do without)
1x Orange Metolius TCU
50x biners
15 QD's
A few slings
That's it!