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Half Dome


Member Since: Sep 23, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,550
Total Points: 402
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 20
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1147 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 500 | Stars 288 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Othello (5.10-)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: There are two pitons at the "top" of this climb...about 25' above where the crack ends. I backed them up with two small cams, brought up my second, and then we rapped from there. Currently there is a decent looking red sling with rap biner through the pitons.

This is actually a sweet little climb. Short but worthwhile. The start might be a tad bit dicey if you aren't comfortable at the grade, it protects with small cams/stoppers. After that, you can sew the climb up, and it is easy to pr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: "Boldness and sac have been entirely co-oped for a yellow-bellied ethic upon which the most shamless kind of poultroons heap virtue."

This is from a respected leader and representative of the "sport" called climbing. Pathetic. Charles Barkley was right - fame does not make you a role model. Unfortunately fame does give you influence in the lives of others, often with disastrous consequences.

In the end, maybe there should be something for everyone. Bacher-Yerian has withstood the test of... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Careful climbing up to and clipping the third bolt off the ground...probably a groundfall if you blow it there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Mar 13, 2011

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Comments: The move off the ledge on pitch 2 seemed to be a low 5.10 move to me...or Eldo 5.9+ :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Born Under Punches (5.10a PG13)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Mar 13, 2011

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Comments: +3 on the tape.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Final Exam (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead.

If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way.

To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet.

IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: If you have a 60m follow the above advice, but tie knots in the rope to be sure. You can't reach the big dead pine ledge with a 60 at all. We tied stopper knots in our 60m rope and the climber just untied 10' up and downclimbed a bit, so we could hang out at the big dead pine ledge.

Awesome climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch... (5.10a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: The bottom section has some CLASSIC super awkward, strange, flared Lumpy jams, but sews up well. The RP traverse is NOT for the timid, hence we bailed.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: I thought the approach was ok. If you are fine with a bit of boulder hopping and a bit of bushwacking - not all that bad and not that long from the trail to the wall. I would not describe it as henious personally. Follow Ivan's recommendations to find the open slope which is a bit loose. This seems the best way down into the ravine.

This wall isn't for everyone: if you are into runout, scary 5.10 and above trad climbing definitely visit here (and really 5.11 and above to make the visit wo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This goes from #1's to #2's above the roof then to .4-#1 with a final hand jam right before the finish. Awesome route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: The Way Rambo primer crack. Place a cam as far out on the traverse as you can and punch it to the vertical crack...don't stop to place too many cams on the traverse as I did, pump out and blow your onsight like I did.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Brain Damage (5.10+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: I used a 4.5 Camalot (new #5 would also work) for the bottom. I also used a #3.5 and a #4 higher up...otherwise it was all #2's, and #3's. There are several other wide pods to work through. You will definitely need two ropes to TR or rap this route. We were able to pass the knot while the follower was resting on the big ledge 1/3 the way up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Wish You Were Here (5.11)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This climb protects with a varied rack, but bring 2-4 black aliens for the bottom section (small wires might also help).

If you are not psyched to lead the thin crack at the bottom, you can TR this climb by finishing Run Like Hell and then swinging/traversing over to the top of Wish You Were Here and climbing the last 20'. Just make sure to place some directionals.

Fun, thin balancy climbing with lots of face holds. Didn't seem 5.11 to me, especially compared to the 5.11 cracks here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: For those trying to onsight don't read further:

My gear was as follows: #1 (Camalot) in the crack above the belay, then #0.75 or smaller cams/nuts after that in the dihedral. #1 or 2 (with a long runner) in the same crack once you gain the slab, then a #2 to start the second crack, #0.75 higher, then a great, mid-sized nut and yellow Alien just above the lip right before you set off onto the slab. After that I found it pretty hard to place gear...though you can ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: The thin 'alternate' crack out left at the second crux seems more 5.9+ than the main crack to me. I did climb this after many months solely in the gym bouldering (so crack climbing felt alien), however I thought the second crux was a 5.10 move to lieback, smear, and gain the jugs. Sure repeating it on TR afterwards it didn't feel that bad, but trying to onsight this climb is pretty difficult if you are thinking 5.9+ (and you climb around that grade on trad). Think OLD school grading, make sur... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Dec 16, 2008

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Comments: Get on it...the P2 dihedral is incredible. With footwork and body positioning you can eliminate a great deal of the pump.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: One of the best cracks in BoCan IMHO. Get pro in on the 10d start early as it is hard to place through the crux section and you are right above the deck. Awesome varied crack on the second pitch. No gimme for a 5.9 leader. You might want a double set if cams on this one to sew it up or bring a few hexes. A #4 can be placed, but not required. It varies a lot though so a single set of nuts, cams will suffice if confident on 5.9 crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: Best to traverse in from the right to avoid the choss below the first bolt. However I always go through the choss for some reason? Maybe I should climb in Glenwood.

Excellent route. Glad it is bolted. Doesn't let up until the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: My partner sent the lower crux this way: right hand on the undercling...left hand up left to a small 2 finger lip that is sharp. Right foot on tiny dime edge and after moving the left foot up to an ok smear throws with right hand to the sloper. I could get the left hand 2 finger hold, but then couldn't release the undercling...might try the other beta here and skip this crap 2 finger hold.

Not using heel hooks on the upper section would be stout.


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