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I swear I only had one beer (7/07).


Member Since: Jul 5, 2003
Last Visit: Sep 5, 2014
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Point Rank: # 610
Total Points: 1,022
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Paul Huebner been climbing?










Contributions


All 419 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Photos 151 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts | Stars 111 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Better Than Pool and Pie (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Started out on this climb in tennis shoes on 8/29/14 to get the kinks out after driving for 12 hrs. from Wisconsin. Wasn't there 4 bolts on this climb in the past? There's only three now and the first two appear to be new. Anyway, if you fall above the first black bolt before clipping the second black bolt you're going to hit the deck after bouncing off the large bulge near the bottom of the climb. Just so you know it's not the safe choice it was in the past for a beginning leader.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : No need to be Chicken (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun route with a weird start, at least for me, to reach first bolt. After the step across, one of the higher bolts was below my knees and another was below my waist when I was able to clip them.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Anemia (5.3)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: This is a quick solo to the top when TR-ing Peter's etc.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Garden Path (5.7)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: This route is best top-roped.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Star Dancer (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: Just repeated Star Dancer and either I'm getting too old (turn 65 this Tues.), or the moves for the hands above the last bolt are definitely 5.9 smears.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Hornets Nest : Second Hand Rose Arete (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: I got sucked into heading to the left after clipping the second bolt and had to traverse back since the route goes straight up instead. I believe from the second bolt to the arete it's 5.7+. The exposure on the left when on the easy 5.4 arete and the rap is awesome. Reminds me a little of Solitaire.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Youbet Jorasses : Inner Course (5.4)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: Just led this route again this past July. I found that by skipping the last bolt (#7), you eliminate the rope drag getting over to the existing anchor and when belaying up your second. The original anchor was in direct line with the bolts, but the newer anchor is quite a ways to the right of the climb.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Solitaire (5.7)
By: Paul Huebner When: Oct 1, 2008

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Comments: I led the route this year on 9/29 and found a new bolt/rap anchor system has been placed just below the actual summit of the climb. I and my second rapped using only a 165 foot rope, but we had to traverse to the right as you face the ground and downclimb the last few feet of the trough.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Katey's Route (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: Just led this climb on 9/28. It was a fun climb, but the first 15 feet of run-out above the 5th bolt is pretty vertical and I believe still consists of 5.7 moves. The angle than eases and is quite juggy the rest of the way up to the nice anchor bolts.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : The Balcony (5.4)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: This can also easily be led and has decent pro.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: This is a nice little spot to get away from the crowd and where you can teach a beginning climber to lead without an audience. There are two easy climbs (Gravel Pit 5.4 and Foliage 5.5) that have lots of pro placements.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Escalation (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: This is another fun lead and you sort of get two climbs in one. Lead it or TP it twice and try both ways, to the right and to the left, after you overcome the niche and get up to the first pine tree.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Chicago (5.9 R)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: I've only climbed Chicago once and on TP, but I watched a 57-year old Professor from UW-Madison lead it back in about 1988, while his student/girl friend looked on with me at the base in awe. It was kind of like when I watched Pete Cleveland in 97 or 98 go up the End (5.10?) barefoot with amazing grace and wearing a swami-belt for a harness.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Berkeley (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: Every time that I've climbed this route, I've almost or have gotten stung by wasps nesting in a key hold so be careful, especially if you're allergic to stings.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Birch Tree Crack (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: After John Pruessner and I climbed this route in 4/89, we knew we could lead the Durrance on Devil's Tower. Like Queen's Throne -- this is an excellent -- but more difficult climb to learn how to jam up a crack in preparation for climbing at the Tower.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Moldy Buttress : Cul-de-Sac (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: This was my first 5.8 at the Park back in 87, and it's still my favorite.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Darcy's Wall (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: If memory serves me right, like a lot of the climbs at the Lake, if you're tall this climb is a lot easier, especially after the delicate traverse from the right to the left.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Roger's Roof (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: What I remember from this climb is the bone in my left hand hurt for 2 weeks afterwards. No bleeding though. Key seemed to be to get your right foot out on the rock face just above the lip of the roof. Once you stand up it's just a real pretty jam crack to the top.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: One of the longer moderate leads in the park. While standing on big ledge, the crux can be well protected with a cam placed about 4 feet up and turned by jamming the crack just above the cam placement or using layback technique. Loose blocks greet you near the top. Once on top of the tower you can walk off it to the West and then circle back around towards the lake to pick up your pack.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Misery Rocks : False Perspective (5.7)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: This was my 1st lead at the Lake (1988). I wasn't aware that the loose block is gone. So it's a 5.7 now?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Can Can (5.5)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: Another great lead that's easy to protect. After setting pro for up and downward pull before starting off, the 1st piece I use is a #1 tricam (pinky) in a small pocket just before heading off left for the alcove below the slightly, overhanging fist-size crack. Moving up and into the crack (a couple of moves) is the crux of the climb. Down climb is off of the back side of the summit into the large gap between the Frigate and the main bluff (see unnamed walk off). From there a short traverse... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Porkchop Buttress : The Bone (5.5)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: One of my favorite leads in the park. I've led it with at least 10 different partners and we all feel it's 5.6 and Jacob's Ladder is 5.5.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.8)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: This is a fun solo, especially in the winter, when there's no snow for skiing. I avoid the 5.8 on the 30-foot wall and opt for the 5.6. I also like to finish on Turk's Head (5.5), instead of Wiessner's.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : East Comfort Route (5.4)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: The best thing about Cleo's is when you're introducing somebody new to the Lake's climbs. They always whig out at the top when the huge summit block moves while you're sitting on it. I've never failed to see a newbie question my sanity when I tell them we're rapping off of the bolt at the top instead of down climbing. It's even better when you rap first and leave them to their thoughts while the block moves even more.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Throne (5.4)
By: Paul Huebner When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: Great lead for beginners. Also, like the comment above from Anonymous, stick (feet & hands) only to the crack and avoid the wall to your left and the climb definitely becomes a 5.5 jam crack. If you do this, like Birch Tree Crack (5.8), the climb is excellent preparation for the Durrance Crack (P2) of the Durrance route on Devil's Tower.


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