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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: Mar 25, 2014
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Point Rank: # 655
Total Points: 893
Last Year: 50
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Areas are worth 15
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All (823) | Routes (35) | Areas (1) | Photos (23) | Comments (413) | Posts (277) | Stars (60) | Ratings (14)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Burnt Buns (5.8) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Amazing how long that dead tree has been hanging out there!
I always thought it was quite aesthetic.
Hope it stays another 40 years.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Gads, are those two Leeper hangers ?
Replace, replace....

Actually, they look too thick to be Leepers


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Swedish Britfast Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Rule #1, never trust a Falcon guide. Never trust any guide that purports to cover an entire state in one book. No offense to Stewart and others but you can't get details about obscure routes correct in a guide like that. Hard enough to get major routes placed correctly. Odd to even have a route like this in a Falcon guide.
My recollection is that if you skip the tree, you'll think it's at least 5.9 :-)
Glad to see a repeat write up. Guess the advantage to a Falcon guide is that it c... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : The Gridle (5.10)
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Probably more traffic than 3 ascents in 30+ years. Maybe there have been more, it is the overlook after all.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Wanderlust (5.9+ PG13)
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: As I recall, I put the PG13 on there for doing certain of the starts that as I recall don't protect for a ways, i.e. the arete towards Cloudwalk. The rest of the climb is good crack. And as I recall, either of the two crack exists protect fine.
I've also done that st8 up into P2 but personally prefer the other exits just for different style. More of a balancy climbing. Hence the name... Wander where your lust takes you.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : PegLeg I, II (5.8+)
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Tyler:
I've drawn the 3 routes as I recall putting them up.
How Marty got the names, location, etc.. I don't know. I suspect from Toula's guide, Cheap Way, which had a number of climbs out of sequence on it. After the Alpineer folded, there was really nothing to keep track of FAs in the area.
I'll have to look at Tim's guide and see what he has there.

I'm also going off probably 30 years of memory :-)

I do know I have P1 and P2 correctly defined. I'm a bit hazier on Hard Rain. In fact, I'... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Agent Orange (5.11- R)
By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: I should add, the FA era was pre small cams. So this was all on passive wired gear. Good to know the small stuff sews it up.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: Paul Davidson When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Interesting...
We came down via the Torreon approach.
I suspect we were thinking of something on Torreon and just kept going.

We also did a very different line that what George shows.
We didn't do the traverse out left but straight up the thin cracks over the roofs. Pretty sure that way is not 10b.

What does Mick's guide say? Have to look up that and what Hill says.
John Fleming recalls there being fixed pins up over the roofs at the belay on the direct version. We thought that was the wa... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Yellow shirt and Bolus makes it 2nd PBC...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Pensativa (5.8)
By: Paul Davidson When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Recently, on a blast from the past, stopped here for a quick afternoon romp and jumped on this. Had been curious as to what it was really like.

I just wish I had a camera for a picture of Randy Mettler toping out carrying all the gear I'd placed on it.

I thought it was a very fun climb, much cleaner than it looks.
Crux is probably the corner 30 ft or so up. Bit tricky to get pulled into and over. The blocks seem pretty welded in place.

There's a great sequence of moves at the top that I'... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Hotline (aka Hiccup Del... (5.10)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Well... If Rusty had it as Hiccup Deluxe, that was probably the original name for the link up. Can't recall where I first heard Hot Line. I'd tend to think Rusty had something to do with the first link up. I seem to recall doing it with Grossman once in '77 when we spent a week at the Front Porch. It sort of captures your attention when you spend enough time hanging on the Porch. Certainly my favorite line up the Buttress itself.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Sweet Acidophilus (5.10)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Is this left or right of Deep Yogurt?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Deep Yogurt (5.10c)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: FWIW - this was originally done as two pitches by Treiber. (I think it's longer than 80')
His first pitch ended at a semi-hanging belay in the stacks just left of the climber. I led it as one pitch in the late '70's/early '80s with Randy Mettler and we pulled out a #2 hex from the original belay.
I suspect that was a 2nd ascent because the nut came right out when I climbed by it.
I traded it back to Treiber in exchange for the story of the first ascent:
He broke the pitch there because he... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Fun little summit. Considering it's about the easiest summit in the ditch to tag... very odd that the register only showed one ascent before us? Maybe prior ascents just didn't record themselves.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Crack-a-Pogo (5.9+)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I believe this is a Larry Coats FA.
That name in my mind is associated with Larry.

Also over on the far east side of the Pillow wall is a pillar I climbed with Dave Dawson that looked somewhat like an Easter Island statue. Seems like it was close to the Silver Pond. Looked a bit dirty and vegetated but actually very good climbing and pretty clean around 5.8. I think we named it Kon Tiki? Although that might have also been what we called the thing to the right of Panda Roza. Just can't rem... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Raindance Buttress : Raindance (5.10)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: As for the FA, hard to really say because it's a gear route.
I do know that Jim Haisley and I climbed it in 1981 or 82. I moved back to Tucson in '83 and it was either the last or next to last summer I was in Flag that Jim and I climbed it. There was a bit of loose on it that we cleaned but not a lot. I don't recall if there was anything loose enough that it clearly had not been climbed. Seems like the climb was pretty clean, only minor stuff but it was looser at the top where we did shift a ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: The name said it all...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Doctor's Office & The P... : Compound Fracture (5.11a) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Well....
It is sandstone


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Obscurity Wall : The Astrid (5.12- R)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Sweet...
looks harder than 12- though...
How many 12- have you done that make you want to puke?
(that weren't OW anyway)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: What a piece of stone.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot Dean, how'd you get that? Hanging w/ Chris?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Not THE Ken Trout?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: Who wouldn't be grinning if they could get a ride and avoid that steep little hump out. Classic....

(u 3 are looking a bit white there, comes from climbing at the Reef)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Paul Davidson When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, JS just ruined the mystique of it all with that...

But it was only 5.10 back then because they were using Blue RRs.
;-)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Normally 3 Rurps (5.7+)
By: Paul Davidson When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Yes, Tony's description in the OP description is for Dugald's Right


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