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 ADVANCED
3rd Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado


Member Since: Aug 1, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 25, 2014
Contact Paul Crowder


Point Rank: # 1,196
Total Points: 533
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 184 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 80 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 7 | Stars 61 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Rose Ledge
By: Paul Crowder When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: (This remark edited 28 Aug 2010 based on JRathfon's feedback) Kudos to the excellent Al Rubin for his work to document the many fine routes at Rose Ledge.


Location: MA : Rose Ledge
By: Paul Crowder When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: In the interest of historical perspective, I've reported the names that routes have been known by over the years based on the best information that I have. It's certainly possible that my information on ascents in the 1970s - and this is typically from my firsthand experience of these routes from this era - isn't the real skinny on the ratings, the first ascents or the routes' names when they were first climbed.

When I've become aware of a currently, widely used name for a route, I've update... more >>


Location: Rusty Reno : Misco Photos : Photo
By: Paul Crowder When: Jul 31, 2008

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Comments: What IS that piece of gear on Rusty's stomach? Is it a stent?


Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Widowmaker (aka Leave it to... (5.10)
By: Paul Crowder When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Based on comments left by some folks who appear to be locals, have changed the name of this route from Leave it to Beaver, which was the name given to it by Alan Bressler in 1976, to Widowmaker. Have also given it another star, for the same reason. It's been some years since I've climbed this route :-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6) : Photo
By: Paul Crowder When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: Crystal hasn't noticed the small foothold that is the key to cruising this roof. It's below her left elbow, right at the edge of the roof. If you can turn to the left and get your left foot on this hold, you're golden.


Location: AK : 2 climbers die on Denali
By: Paul Crowder When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: Bad weather, ill-fated route finding, and a shared rope spelled the end for these folks. The weather above 19,000 feet on the evening of the 17th, from the football field to the summit, was pretty bad. It was socked in, with cold temperatures, moderately high winds, blowing snow, & very limited visibility. The folks that died were the 1st of 3 teams on the top of the Upper West Rib that evening. My climbing partner & I, the last of the 3 teams, went up into the storm on the football field at... more >>


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3) : Photo
By: Paul Crowder When: Feb 10, 2007

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Comments: Rusty Reno, making the mixed crux look casual. New Year's Day 1989.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Tower Crack (5.7)
By: Paul Crowder When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: Steep but short, strenuous but well protected. One of a handful of very nice ways to the top of the crag from the top of the Wiessner Slab. A short winter afternoon spent climbing Wiessner's and then Tower Crack in plastic mountaineering boots, on lead, is an exciting diversion from Connecticut's uneven ice climbing conditions.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wiessner Slab (5.3)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 13, 2006

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Comments: In spite of this route's modest technical rating, you need to have good skills with traditional gear in order to safely lead it. The variation on the right, for instance, requires small nuts such as RPs or small stoppers in order to protect its small corner system. Effective placement of that kind of gear is a pretty sophisticated skill.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 12, 2006

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Comments: The route description is accurate - this attractive crack is no giveaway. It also sees a lot of traffic due to its relative proximity to the Uberfall and the Carriage Trail. If it's open, jump on it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 12, 2006

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Comments: This is a great route, with what seems like a lot of exposure on the traverse left to the arete, above the large roof. You can establish a somewhat hanging belay at the arete, at the end of the traverse, if your second will need a lot of encouragement on the traverse. This is the "optional belay" that is referred to in the route description. I once enountered a very large black snake in the horizontal crack that you use for your hands as you do the traverse. I shouted "Shoo! Shoo!" at the s... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 9, 2006

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Comments: Super, super classic. My memory is, per Ivan's comments on his photos, that the face holds on the right, at the start of the crux, are the way to go, followed by a blind move left into the crack. I'm kinda tall, so that may not work for everyone. Super exciting.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 9, 2006

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Comments: This is a classic Gunks sandbag. The offwidth is really challenging, and I'd rate this thing at 5.8 on any day. Hats off to the folks who put this thing up, 'way back when.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 9, 2006

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Comments: Sky Top has some really incredible routes at all grades. My own observation of climber interaction with hotel guests prior to closure of this crag is that climbers were typically polite, but occasionally really rude. And the hotel definitely didn't like to see scruffy climbers in their lobby, as the hotel positioned itself as a pretty upscale getaway for folks from NYC. It's a shame that the climbing community lost access to this crag, and I hope that we have a chance to see access restored i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Transcontinental Nailway (5.10b)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 9, 2006

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Comments: The vintage photos that are posted on this page as of 3/9/06 are really entertaining. My opinion - although getting past the overhang is reasonably hard, I think that the crux is actually not too far off the ground, where my memory is that you have to do a thin face move in order to make your way up and right to establish a position underneath the overhang. This is a great route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: Paul Crowder When: Mar 7, 2006

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Comments: The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls
By: Paul Crowder When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: Hidden Falls in "in," but thin. Very narrow 'sicle for the last 3 moves or so, and running a lot of water from the stream that feeds it on 11/27, when air temps were in the mid-20's F. TR seemed like the smartest approach to climbing it on that day.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
By: Paul Crowder When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Based on our experience on the [Northcutt-Carter] the other day, the route goes at 5.8 these days. Start right of the white scar, ie right of the point where the first 2 pitches fell off the cliff some time ago. Climb up and right for about 40 meters and belay. (I may have forgotten an intermediate pitch here). Then climb up and left around a short, steep, somewhat loose arete, and join the original route at the bottom of the 5.8 crack (variation) on the 3rd pitch, at a now-hanging belay. B... more >>