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Member Since: May 9, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 7, 2014
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Point Rank: # 179
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has paul bucher been climbing?










Contributions


All 677 | Routes 36 | Areas 13 | Photos 429 | Page Improvements | Comments 95 | Posts | Stars 77 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Harkonnen Castle : Grumpies (5.8+ PG13)
By: paul bucher When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: check for closures. we started up the slab before we were told it was closed. (whoops, my bad). we did the slab sans rope but it felt like 5.6 . happy the bolts were there. i could down climb it but wouldn't want to. it may reopen before the posted aug. date.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Barricade Wall : (a place in france where th... (5.10+) : Photo
By: paul bucher When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: nice lookin line. gona have to get on this one


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Seven Drunken Sailors : Boracho Grande (5.9)
By: paul bucher When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: fun route. we approached directly up from a boulder field on the north side (not the sand hill). the route is easy to spot from the west side. the start takes a nice 3.5 friend to protect the moves off the ground. while broken up, the start and traverse protect well. after slinging a poor chockstone at the start of the wide stuff, we basically got nothing the rest of the way. doubles to a 1 camalot and the 3.5 friend should do it. there are a couple of nice stopper placements (we didn't have a... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Seven Drunken Sailors : Third Sailor (5.9 A0)
By: paul bucher When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: while tossing and jugging is normally my first choice; we very much enjoyed having a route up. a great intro to aid for the average joe. no "real" aid gear required. we used a couple of 24" runners and a cam to pull on. a short 5 easy scramble up gets you to a ledge for a blind clip of the first bolt. not sure on the 5.9 (perhaps we did it "wrong"). short, steep, fun. nice work guys, thank you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Terma (5.9 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: was back up there yesterday, 4/8/14. the refreshment stand was full and functional.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hidden Valley : Willis Tower - Get Your Sti... (5.8 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Super fun, "easy", great average joe tower. i used a small grey camalot, a #.75, a #1 and two #2s. bomber anchors. replaced the tat with a nice bit of 10 mil. i climbed this one back in 08 and had to do it again because you can see it from my partners living room and he had not done it. still got lost on the way in. got it wired now. when you top out into hidden valley it opens up into the valley. pass this first meadow. the valley (trail) pinches down as it goes by some rocks ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab's Wall of Winter Warmt...
By: paul bucher When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: the wife and i just climbed it. i was darn happy with the bomber solid (no spinners) bolts. i clipped the heck outa them. i say, climb it, clip it, enjoy it. fun and well worth doing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab's Wall of Winter Warmt... : Wall of Winter Warmth (5.9-)
By: paul bucher When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Fun little climb. close to town and quick and easy to get to. nice secluded area even though you can see town. great views. and yep, WARM IN THE WINTER! a little bit run. not to bad. just enough to give it some spice. a tad crumblelisous at the start but the rock quality goes up as you do. well worth doing if your looking for a quickie with minimal gear. we used a single 70 and had lots left on the ground.
optional .75 or #1 camalot to pro up the final moves to the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: paul bucher When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: it's a mandatory must do. fun. the 5.6 is a sandbag though. i'm thinking of, and comparing it to, nutcracker on manure pile in yosemite (a consensus 5.8). the crux is similar but a tad bit easier. if your new to the sharp end, just expect a bit more than a walk up. the bolt and anchors were spinning. we snugged them up. looking good now.
we found some gear up there. ID it and i'll shoot it back to you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand : SIC FUN RAMP AKA:THE ACCEL... (5.10+ PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: mark and laura-lynn got the second ascent. #3 (and 4) big bros were the ticket. also we think you may make it down with double 60s. they both crushed it. they called it 10+ on the sharp, 10B on the dull or old school (laton kor or chuck pratt) 5.9.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Great Googly Moogly (5.10+)
By: paul bucher When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: we brought a double set of camalots to #6. sewed it up pretty good. it's in the shade. burrr. a single 70 gets ya down. (just barely). good anchors. we added new webbing . we did puttermans pile first. from there it's a short walk over to GGM. cool towers.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly
By: paul bucher When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: experience being relative.... we didn't find it that bad but we climb a lot of stuff way way dirtier. not as cleaned up as ancient art or the lizard and not near as dirty as most everything else in the fissures, so i'd put it in the middle, fissure towers wise or total dirt pile, yosemite wise, or immaculate mr. potato head wise (spindrift route) (gold bar canyon).


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dewey Bridge : Loathing- Less Clothing (5.7 C1)
By: paul bucher When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: we did it in one pitch. took the 3rd class ramp right then cut back left placing no pro until the business. we took the crack just left of the roof. 5.7++D, but only for a couple of moves. the aid part is gravy. bring at least one 3.5, or 4 camalot size as the crack does widen. fun little tower. easy bag and tag.
just as a side note; if your planning on doing Fear, i thought it was a lot closer to A3 than A1.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dewey Bridge : Greed - Dirty Deed (5.6)
By: paul bucher When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: 5. easy. fun little "tower" ? a little bit run out and not a lot of pro if your new to the sharp end but doable enough. mandatory if your in the area.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Putterman's Frisbee : The F... (A0 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: FA of the tower; Cameron Burns with Paul Fehlan as rope anchor. January 18, 1990


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Putterman's Frisbee : The F... (A0 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: i think your right. thank you. will change the name to that now. having accurate info is important to us. this one is 3 miles in and the book says 6.5, but i think thats just an error. we knew the thing had been done because there were fresh anchors on top. we considered tossing a rope (were not at all above that) but after talking with some folks we decided the thing needed a route up. hope you enjoy it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Canyon Rims Recreation Area : Enchanted Mesa - Silent Des... (5.9 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: the original register is more on the southern end of the tower under a flat rock. we made the stack a bit taller so it's now easier to see and find. big adventure and fun little climb. Taylor took the money pitch and said a #6 would have been nice but he pulled it just fine without one. we put a nice bit of rope around a tree to rap off the top back to pitch one and new webbing and hardware on the bolts on top pitch one. stellar location and awesome views!! not a lot of traffic on this on... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Photo
By: paul bucher When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: cam burns route. they were short on gear so they got to a high point and tossed the rope over and jugged up. there was two feet of snow on top so they just touched the top. quickdraws, a few wire rivet hangers and a super long clip stick. we stayed in style and did it the same as the FA party tossing and jugging to the top. we found a two pin anchor on top but rapped our line since it was already tied off and safer. hope this helps


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Putterman's Nub (5.12)
By: paul bucher When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: fun enough. A0. worth doing if your in the neighborhood. i had a shredding hang over and still had a good time. easy bag and tag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : O Tower (5.8+ R)
By: paul bucher When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: we climbed the right facing corner 25 feet right of this route (whoops), (F.A. ???). another wonderful desert dirt swim. 25 feet run to the first good placement, good hands in the middle, then R into a squeeze chimney. a tube or perhaps a 6 camalot here would greatly reduce the run out. then left to meet up with the other route and the top. super fun if your into this sort of thing (again, we are) we tied together every bit of cord and webbing we had, slung the top and raped the west side. bring... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : U Tower (5.6)
By: paul bucher When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: super fun if you like desert dirt swims (we do). felt harder than 5.6 but it was my second tower of the day and i had a screaming hang over so ??? eats up pro. i placed a #3 camalot up top. a fun must do for the desert rat. NO fixed anchors on top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Superball Tower : Superball Tower (5.9 A0 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: was back up there yesterday 7/6/13. even with the warm weather, it was excellent. route gets great morning shade. left town at 8, four of us topped out, and we were still back in town by noon. charlie and john both hiked it in their flip flops. my third time on the route. i love this thing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : The Rhino's Horn : Regular Route (5.9+ R)
By: paul bucher When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: this thing is great fun. way cleaner than we expected. the crux is getting off the ground. the climb is standard 5.9. protects well and the R is perhaps a small r (ie: not that bad at all). the wide stuff is easy, by wide stuff standards. great spacious summit. we replaced a ton of tat. good anchors as of this date. from the top, we rapped to the start of the last pitch (with a single 70) pulled and then walked down (bootie skootied) to the bolts. seemed best to pull from there. caution, the cr... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Boognish Tower : Boognish Tower (5.10 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: UPDATE: looks like karl kelly's boy and his girlfriend got the FFA. he said not 5.9. karl and his wife went and got on it. he agreed with his boy. he felt it is more like 10 b/c but also added that it was hot (108*), he was tired and this is not his main style of climbing. we have yet to get back there but i trust karl's experience and judgement on the matter. EXPECT MID 5.10 CLIMBING. our mantra remains; rather not sandbag people.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Terma (5.9 PG13)
By: paul bucher When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: did it again yesterday, 5/26/13. great morning shade until almost 11:00 am. roger did a great job on the first two pitches; his first lead ever!!!!! i took the last pitch and placed much less gear this time. 1 tiny, double small blue, double small grey, then single camalots to a #2. one quick draw. i think it could be better to substitute medium stoppers for the double cams. theres a couple bomber stopper placements up there. also; optional 3, 3 1/2, or 4 could be place... more >>


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