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Member Since: Jun 14, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 31, 2014
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Point Rank: # 7,199
Total Points: 44
Last Year: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrik been climbing?










Contributions


All 80 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 45 | Stars 8 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Zap Snack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (7)

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part D - Xanad...

Sep 13, 2012

Out to Lunge ... with Dessert

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Sep 4, 2012

Rincon Light

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (6)

Trad, 5 pitches

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - Center Route & R

Jul 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: Patrik When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Anyone noticed the bolted anchor sits in a detached block teetering on the edge of a ledge?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: Patrik When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Northumberland Crack (5.9+)
By: Patrik When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: One of the wildest 5.9 cruxes in the canyon! BUT: The second pitch (the 5.9 crux) is quite loose before you get to the wide crack. You might get about three sketchy pieces before the bolt, the rest is crap. And don't expect too much confidence-building clipping that bolt; it's not one of those shiny, beefy things you find in BoCan or Clear Creek. If you're not allergic to double ropes, it could be a good idea; if you pull off any of the loose sharp flakes it could cut your ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Patrik When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: There's a variation 3rd pitch listed in Levin's guidebook, claiming a 'few loose flakes' rated 5.8 PG (to the left of P3 decribed on this site). It is basically 60ft with no gear in any solid rock and a great chance of pulling off loose holds. Please avoid this variation as the bottom is always crowded with people. I found it more sketchy than the 1st pitch of Moonlight Drive (at Cadillac) that gets a 5.8 R rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Patrik When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: A long forgotten (?) variation is listed in Rossiter's book but not in Levin's modern version: instead of diagonalling up and left for pitch 3, go straight up the arete. Stay slightly right at the start, and then follow the natural features back left to the arete. Rossiter's topo shows a 5.6ish traverse up and left meeting the pins on the original pitch 4. A more exciting variation is to skip the leftward traverse (there's a bit of loose rock at the start of this), pull a short steep section on ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Patrik When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Gluing holds in Eldo?

As of 7/28/2011, our beloved magic chockstone on this climb was completely stuck! As such, the new rating is at least 5.10b+. Isn't gluing holds supposed to make climbs easier???


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Whymper (5.9 PG13)
By: Patrik When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: I found this much harder than its rating of 5.9. Maybe because of the lichen at the crux leaning weird crack/slab. Gear was good, though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: Patrik When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I had no trouble protecting this route and felt more comfortable on this than for example Purple Haze. Rossiter says 'poorly protected crack', which had me scared away for a while, but once I was on it, it wasn't bad at all.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana (5.9 R)
By: Patrik When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Welcome to Eldo (5.10a)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: This one is easier than the wide section of West Buttress (5.9). It might become a 10a if you really want to do it as an offwidth instead of the clean, obvious layback that it is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: Copy Ivan's comments above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamond, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a in Eldo, I think Moonlight Drive is a bit easier. There's a bunch of suspect rock on the first pitch, bit being careful, you only need to touch one suspect rock (the very large flake) while climbing it at 5.8 level. Just avoid the big suspect jugs and use the smaller and more stable features. Gear can also be placed away from the suspect stuff with a bit of imagination. Make sure your second is... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: If you are allergic to runouts, pick the right-hand variation on P1 following a small, left-facing corner instead of traversing out left. Doing this, you can clip one bolt on Land of Ra.
If following the suggestion in Rossiter's book about going left to the arete above the roof/bulge on P2, I think this is quite a bit harder than 5.9. Taking a step to the right makes it a 9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: I agree with Ivan above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamonds, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a routes in Eldo, Ichiban is a bit easier. Gearwise, I would put it at PG. Mostly you get great gear (and you can even back up a bolt with a great nut!), but there is a small runout section. However, there's nothing to hit if falling.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Thu Oct 2 - Mon Oct 6, Eldo, 5.9-10Colorado PartnersPatrikSep 29, 2014
re: Eldo, 5.9-10, Sat 9/20 and onwardsColorado PartnersPatrikSep 24, 2014
Eldo, 5.9-10, Sat 9/20 and onwardsColorado PartnersPatrikSep 17, 2014
re: Eldo partnerColorado PartnersPatrikSep 10, 2014
re: Eldo partnerColorado PartnersPatrikSep 8, 2014
re: Eldo partnerColorado PartnersPatrikSep 7, 2014
Eldo partnerColorado PartnersPatrikSep 3, 2014
re: Weekday Eldo Colorado PartnersPatrikAug 25, 2014
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