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mexico


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 647
Total Points: 986
Last Year: 62
Last 30 Days: 0
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 718 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 91 | Posts 151 | Stars 213 | Ratings 169
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There actually two ways to do this pitch. After the initial finger crack one can go left up to a pin, or continue straight up and avoid the pin. Rossiter tells you to go straight up, I was confused and went left on some strenuous liebacking, still probably about .11a, perhaps a little more devious than going straight up? Going straight up to the belay from the pin looks really cool, however it gets .10+ in the old b.c. south and now gets .11d in the new guidebook!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I was looking in the guidebook today, and the runnout .8 crack I described for the start was listed as runnout .10! Its probably not that hard, but in retrospect it is harder than .8, maybe .9+ and definitely not a good fall potential. Why am I telling you this? Well it looks pretty simple from the ground, but is harder and definately dangerous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is more like .11c on lead, very continuous and endurance oriented.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The R rating on this route is not necessary. The lower roof eats nuts and tcus. The upper roof has a jug on the right you can hang and place a bomber #1 cam from, and the moves out the roof (technical laybacking) are not too strenuous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The 5.9 Route to the left of the south face was a much better route in my opinion. It was a little harder, a little looser, but a lot less crowded (we were the only party on the route). the 5.9 pitch is short, but very cool.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmm, the crux is getting to the finger jam, not incredibly hard but definitely a little scary, I couldn't get a very good RP, a fall off this move would not be great, if the RP ripped it would be disasterous. It's a little spicy after the crux also on .9+ terrain with bad RPs, but its over quickly and the upper .10+ climbing has good pro. A very fun pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D1 (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Steve, or anyone, I'm curious; has the joker ever seen a second free ascent? An onsight? It seems like one of the great free/trad challenges climbs of the front range (or america for that matter), yet I never hear of any climbers attempting to free it. It would be cool to see it onsighted some day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Interesting Doug, My first time on this route I had the same experience as you did, I recall a sort of diagonal jamming/handtraversing deal to get to a really bad diagonaling hold, it seemed way harder than .12a. I went back to the route and tried the crux differently, you undecling the right diagonaling holds and can stand up and avoid this reach, this way is at most .12a, probably about as hard as the beginning. Deceptive sequence.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route felt like a definite sandbag to me, maybe .10c if you know the exact beta on it, however it is impossible to know what to do until your head pops over the roof and you don have long to look for the easiest sequence before your arms give out. Most climbers do a hard jamming, heel hook, belly flop move that feels more like .11a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this feels quite hard for .11a, very cool footwork intensive crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museu... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Psycho (5.12+)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the left hand variation of this first pitch today known as wasabe. The roof on this is .12c (another onsight free solo for me;) however if you stop before the roof and traverse up and left to evangaline you have a nice .11b sporty route. This pitch is cool and sustained two star climbing. The second clip is a little peppery (spicy) as well as the first clip. This variation breaks left from the first bolt on psycho.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: From talking to other people, I think I may have screwed this pitch up, I believe I missed a cam placement after the crux. This would eliminate a 30ft runout and make it about a 10ft runout. I also meant to say "angle up and right" after the crux in the description. Whatever the case may be, be prepared for a relatively bold route, and a total classic. I don't often see people climbing on this wall, if you are up for these routes, they are among the best in Eldo.


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