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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Patrick Vernon

Point Rank: # 704
Total Points: 991
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 1
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 810 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 151 | Stars 259 | Ratings 210
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Wizard of Air (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Excellent route, feels like adventure sport climbing.

The first pitch is my least favorite, a little contrived and then runnout. The best line seems to weave back and forth between the bolts which is kind of a theme on this route. This pitch can be skipped by scrambling up a gulley to the right as mentioned above.

Don't overlook the airy third pitch. This pitch has hollow rock, spacey bolts and difficult in-obvious climbing that feels like the mental crux of the route and isn't really muc... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: No worries George! Nothing wrong with the occasional sandbag. I noticed this is rated .11d in the Falcon New Mexico guidebook which feels about right. This is a great crag if you realize what you are in for. I would say .11d for this, .12c for Completely Clueless, and .12b/c for Bojin after my visit today.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Completely Clueless (5.12b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I doubt this thing gets climbed much. This feels like the hardest line of the three by far. At least Bojin to the left has usable holds through the difficult climbing and feels reasonable for its given grade. There was some suspect glue at one point where it looked like a hold might have been.

Fun 5.11 climbing leads to a stance on a sloping angled foot ledge. From here it is 20 feet of desperate, sequential slab climbing that is probably .12d in reality. It took me multiple tries to wor... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I pity the hapless bastard who heads to Techweeny Buttress for a relaxing day of sport climbing. Crankenstein is a true sandbag of epic proportions probably more in line with standard .12a in the Sandias. I assume the nature of these routes has changed over the years, I even managed to break a hold on it today.

Mellow climbing leads to the second bolt. From here the route weaves right to the arete for then back to the face on solid mid 5.11 climbing for about 30 feet. Without resting bust... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Perverse Traverse (5.11c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Choss and moss is the name of the game on this "Rig". Best avoided.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Rawhide (5.10c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: This route linked with Great Escape makes for what would be an excellent 5 star outing at any crag. Also, the 30 feet of crux climbing is one of the few stretches of pure crack climbing I have encountered in the Sandias. Highly recommended.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... : Ledged Assault (5.11c/d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: I only TR'd this route after a day of climbing, but, man, what a line! This looks a little chossy from the ground, but the climbing is stellar, and it is not yet polished from the masses. The movement through the 25 feet of crux climbing is absolutely classic, like tricky Eldo climbing... but better! This seemed all of .11d, probably harder in some areas.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Red Dawn (5.11c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was the best of the trilogy of harder routes on the south face of Pino. This one has a mostly natural line that travels straight up the "nose" for a continuously airy and memorable experience on the last two pitches with some excellent climbing; equal parts technical and burl. The first two pitches might leave something to be desired for some people, but I thoroughly enjoyed them as well! A cool crack, some tufas... good stuff. Excellent climb.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: A bit of context here: I wrote this route description when this site was just being conceived, long before any of us knew what the site was our would become to be. The only existing routes on this site were buildering routes on the engineering building at CU. There were 6 registered users, and we probably received 10 visits a week or something. The main climbing site on the internet was rec.climbing.

I submitted some brief descriptions of routes to Myke on a floppy disk as a sort of quick, g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Or you guys could use the obvious finger lock, no dyno required!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : The Baseball Problem (V8)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Some beta on this problem. The last move, right where I fall, is the crux. This problem has some very angular holds that eventually cut into your hands in all the wrong spots if you keep trying it multiple times (like I did). Otherwise it is a good problem with decent movement.




Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: The approach to Pino wall is quite short from the tram terminal, probably only 15-20 minutes when you have it dialed. Take the crest trail south from the tram terminal through the woods. After about 5 minutes on the right there is a faint rocky trail to the crest. Take this to the crest and then find the hard to see two cinder block supports mentioned in the guidebook about 200 feet southeast along the crest. Just before the blocks is a small cairn marking the proper descent from the crest. ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I have to agree with DTP, this feels like 5.4ish climbing. 3:09 car to car? thats pretty fast! I thought I was clipping along pretty well at 3:50, but I certainly wasn't running and stopped a couple times. Coming down the ramp is certainly faster than Chimney Canyon but bush-wacking through the pricker bushes is not fun at all.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Friendship Boulders : Friendship Boulder : Massive Aggressive (V4)
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: There are a lot of variations on this face in the V4-5 range. Some are quite good. Perhaps the most ridiculous/silly is a low traverse, left to right of the entire overhang. I worked on it for months and eventually sent. This was before they put mulch down at the base and I was a few inches shorter. Here's a link to a few variations:




Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Friendship Boulders : Friendship Boulder : Sleepwalker (V1 PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: There is a V6 sit start left of this that joins the rail. Two hard moves involving a nasty, slanted crimp.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Friendship Boulders
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Ahh the Friendship Boulders! I started climbing here 20 years ago, stealing my dad's board lasted shoes to play around on these boulders when I was a teen. Don't take this the wrong way Seth, but none of these are first ascents. The first ascent info for most of this stuff is lost to obscurity. Some of the harder problems in this area, such as the one off to the right of the nature trail behind Friendship Boulder starting on two crimps with no feet were done by Jim Belcer back in 2000 (he ra... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Manitoba/Montgomery Trailhe... : North Ridge Steps : ... : Boulder A
By: Patrick Vernon When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: You almost hit coyote! Nice vid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I wonder what Lucid Dreaming would be rated in Rifle?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Little Yellow Jacket (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: This was an excellent route.

Wandering, yet ultimately direct. Varied climbing on faces slabs and a little crack.

I thought the first pitch was the crux and solid .11a, maybe even a tad harder. The third pitch you have to punch it at the crux and run it out on 5.9. The traverse is awesome, and the last pitch is not bad (.10c compared to the first) and one of the least sustained on the route.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+) : Photo
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Actually I would have preferred an approach as opposed to 14 raps.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Procrastination (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Not quite as pleasant as the other routes on this excellent wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stroke Me (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: I thought this one had one of the hardest single sections out of the quadrifecta of .11d/.12a routes on this wall. Fortunately it gets easier after this.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Yes a grade debate! .11c in rifle, .lld most places.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.6)
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: This was a good adventure climb, kind of like Sharkstooth (RMNP) meets the Black Canyon. Not knowing any better, I started from the lower la cueva canyon parking lot which took about 1:45 to get to the base. From this approach it is hard to see how anyone would NOT call this the thumb! The climbing was mostly secure albeit loose, but the crux above the ring piton felt like 5.7 trying to avoid the obvious loose holds. Steep and airy, a good day out! Can't wait to explore more of this area.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Glacier Gorge Traverse (5.7+)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: I would take shoes, but I'm a massive wimp when it comes to soloing. The only climb I ever really solo these days is the Direct East Face on the First Flatiron where I take my time and normally get passed by old guys practically running in hiking boots. I felt secure on this, but the route finding is challenging, and you could easily make it harder. What I did felt about 5.6 with 5.10 route finding. For comparison, I think soloing the Northeast Ridge on Spearhead would feel like more difficu... more >>


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