Comments: Some beta on this problem. The last move, right where I fall, is the crux. This problem has some very angular holds that eventually cut into your hands in all the wrong spots if you keep trying it multiple times (like I did). Otherwise it is a good problem with decent movement.
Comments: The approach to Pino wall is quite short from the tram terminal, probably only 15-20 minutes when you have it dialed. Take the crest trail south from the tram terminal through the woods. After about 5 minutes on the right there is a faint rocky trail to the crest. Take this to the crest and then find the hard to see two cinder block supports mentioned in the guidebook about 200 feet southeast along the crest. Just before the blocks is a small cairn marking the proper descent from the crest. ... more >>
Comments: I have to agree with DTP, this feels like 5.4ish climbing. 3:09 car to car? thats pretty fast! I thought I was clipping along pretty well at 3:50, but I certainly wasn't running and stopped a couple times. Coming down the ramp is certainly faster than Chimney Canyon but bush-wacking through the pricker bushes is not fun at all.
Comments: There are a lot of variations on this face in the V4-5 range. Some are quite good. Perhaps the most ridiculous/silly is a low traverse, left to right of the entire overhang. I worked on it for months and eventually sent. This was before they put mulch down at the base and I was a few inches shorter. Here's a link to a few variations:
Comments: Ahh the Friendship Boulders! I started climbing here 20 years ago, stealing my dad's board lasted shoes to play around on these boulders when I was a teen. Don't take this the wrong way Seth, but none of these are first ascents. The first ascent info for most of this stuff is lost to obscurity. Some of the harder problems in this area, such as the one off to the right of the nature trail behind Friendship Boulder starting on two crimps with no feet were done by Jim Belcer back in 2000 (he ra... more >>
Wandering, yet ultimately direct. Varied climbing on faces slabs and a little crack.
I thought the first pitch was the crux and solid .11a, maybe even a tad harder. The third pitch you have to punch it at the crux and run it out on 5.9. The traverse is awesome, and the last pitch is not bad (.10c compared to the first) and one of the least sustained on the route.
Comments: This was a good adventure climb, kind of like Sharkstooth (RMNP) meets the Black Canyon. Not knowing any better, I started from the lower la cueva canyon parking lot which took about 1:45 to get to the base. From this approach it is hard to see how anyone would NOT call this the thumb! The climbing was mostly secure albeit loose, but the crux above the ring piton felt like 5.7 trying to avoid the obvious loose holds. Steep and airy, a good day out! Can't wait to explore more of this area.
Comments: I would take shoes, but I'm a massive wimp when it comes to soloing. The only climb I ever really solo these days is the Direct East Face on the First Flatiron where I take my time and normally get passed by old guys practically running in hiking boots. I felt secure on this, but the route finding is challenging, and you could easily make it harder. What I did felt about 5.6 with 5.10 route finding. For comparison, I think soloing the Northeast Ridge on Spearhead would feel like more difficu... more >>
Comments: Didn't find any knee lock on this one, pretty pumpy climbing with a difficult crux that felt harder than .12a especially when compared to Arms Bazaar. The runout up top gets easier the higher you go, but you go a ways above that last bolt!
Comments: What an incredible adventure in the alpine! The west ridge of Pagoda is a gnarled and crazy feature; any route that makes me feel like Gollum traversing the misty mountains is a good route in my book. Plenty of good beta here from Justin and Mitch. I would add that the crux of the soloing on Pagoda's ridge is the route finding. The actual climbing is secure enough when soloing though very exposed!
BETA ROUTE FINDING SPOILER ETC. I started on the south side of the ridge on cruise... more >>
Comments: What an incredible route, possibly my favorite in the alpine! A little spicier than I was expecting, exiting the dihedral at the beginning of the crux is committing with hard to place thin gear (if you want to sew it up before the bolt), I thought the moves into the left facing dihedral at the end of the pitch equally challenging with plenty of micro route finding on nubbins and a raging calf pump. The second 5.11 pitch had a spicy off balance .9+ move a ways above a crappy knifeblade and a thi... more >>
Comments: That's an incredible story Brad, it's cool to know where the old bolt came from on the crux dihedral. I couldn't imagine climbing the Jackson Johnson with a hemp rope and mountaineering boots.