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mexico


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Patrick Vernon

Point Rank: # 689
Total Points: 988
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 2
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 762 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts 151 | Stars 236 | Ratings 188
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The R rating on this route is not necessary. The lower roof eats nuts and tcus. The upper roof has a jug on the right you can hang and place a bomber #1 cam from, and the moves out the roof (technical laybacking) are not too strenuous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The 5.9 Route to the left of the south face was a much better route in my opinion. It was a little harder, a little looser, but a lot less crowded (we were the only party on the route). the 5.9 pitch is short, but very cool.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmm, the crux is getting to the finger jam, not incredibly hard but definitely a little scary, I couldn't get a very good RP, a fall off this move would not be great, if the RP ripped it would be disasterous. It's a little spicy after the crux also on .9+ terrain with bad RPs, but its over quickly and the upper .10+ climbing has good pro. A very fun pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D1 (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Steve, or anyone, I'm curious; has the joker ever seen a second free ascent? An onsight? It seems like one of the great free/trad challenges climbs of the front range (or america for that matter), yet I never hear of any climbers attempting to free it. It would be cool to see it onsighted some day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Interesting Doug, My first time on this route I had the same experience as you did, I recall a sort of diagonal jamming/handtraversing deal to get to a really bad diagonaling hold, it seemed way harder than .12a. I went back to the route and tried the crux differently, you undecling the right diagonaling holds and can stand up and avoid this reach, this way is at most .12a, probably about as hard as the beginning. Deceptive sequence.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route felt like a definite sandbag to me, maybe .10c if you know the exact beta on it, however it is impossible to know what to do until your head pops over the roof and you don have long to look for the easiest sequence before your arms give out. Most climbers do a hard jamming, heel hook, belly flop move that feels more like .11a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this feels quite hard for .11a, very cool footwork intensive crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museu... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Psycho (5.12+)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the left hand variation of this first pitch today known as wasabe. The roof on this is .12c (another onsight free solo for me;) however if you stop before the roof and traverse up and left to evangaline you have a nice .11b sporty route. This pitch is cool and sustained two star climbing. The second clip is a little peppery (spicy) as well as the first clip. This variation breaks left from the first bolt on psycho.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: From talking to other people, I think I may have screwed this pitch up, I believe I missed a cam placement after the crux. This would eliminate a 30ft runout and make it about a 10ft runout. I also meant to say "angle up and right" after the crux in the description. Whatever the case may be, be prepared for a relatively bold route, and a total classic. I don't often see people climbing on this wall, if you are up for these routes, they are among the best in Eldo.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Spanish language schools near (*awesome*) climbing destinationsGeneral ClimbingPatrick VernonSep 5, 2014
re: Salt Lake Area Nursing Job InfoNorthern Utah & IdahoPatrick VernonSep 3, 2014
re: Salt Lake Area Nursing Job InfoNorthern Utah & IdahoPatrick VernonSep 2, 2014
re: Best/fastest way to heal crack in DIP crease? Injuries and AccidentsPatrick VernonSep 25, 2013
re: Groundbreaking Female AscentEastern StatesPatrick VernonSep 25, 2013
re: Climbing JobGeneral ClimbingPatrick VernonSep 19, 2013
re: Flood relief fund for Scott and Leah DeCapioCommunity ForumPatrick VernonSep 16, 2013
re: Flood relief fund for Scott and Leah DeCapioCommunity ForumPatrick VernonSep 15, 2013
re: Binghamton, NY - WTF to do? Eastern StatesPatrick VernonSep 12, 2013
re: Lumpy Ridge Fatal AccidentInjuries and AccidentsPatrick VernonAug 26, 2013
re: Extreme Mountaineering or Extreme BS? I think the latter...General ClimbingPatrick VernonAug 25, 2013
re: Bad Couple of Days on Longs PeakGeneral ClimbingPatrick VernonAug 20, 2013
re: Bad Couple of Days on Longs PeakGeneral ClimbingPatrick VernonAug 19, 2013
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