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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 644
Total Points: 986
Last Year: 62
Last 30 Days: 0
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 717 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 91 | Posts 151 | Stars 212 | Ratings 169
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Apr 14, 2002

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Comments: It's been a while but I seem to remember a number five being essential. My brother might remember.

=pat


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Sep 15, 2001

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Comments: Finally did the headwall yesterday and found it to be far more reasonable than I was expecting. Good fingerlocks on vertical climbing with poor feet. A bit sequential but not too bad, felt like .11a or b. Bigger finger sizes will probably find this to be significantly harder .11c or d. We also took the Loose J variation which has some short but excellent face moves to traverse into J-crack. The old quarter inch bolt protecting this traverse has been replaced in the last week with a brand new... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Aug 13, 2001

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Comments: The gear below the crux is solid, but you better be climbing at the grade.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Stellar, easiest route up the dead vertical diamond, and still a great route. The crux can easily be aided for those who get edgy leading 5.10 at fourteen thousand feet, yet the leader should defintately be confident up to mid 5.10 to feel at home on this route. Start early, and try to climb the north chimney at first light. Having people ahead of you in this 500 feet of decomposing rock is very dangerous with rock fall almost assured. It is easiest to solo all except the last steep section whic... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: It's a 5.13 traverse!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Great route, but quite a bit of loose rock on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmmm, you would really have to know this route well to take the mentioned rack on it, the pitch isn't too long, but is one of the harder 9s in Eldo. The second pitch isn anything close to a death fest, there are one (or two?) pins at your waist, and two pretty good RP placements in the seam. It's really quite sane, even sewn up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Descending from routes in this area is a bitch, yet if you know where the Pigeon Crack rappels are, you can save yourself quite a bit of hassle on the descent. This rappel is to left of Ruper (when facing it) and goes down a chockstone-filled chimney from two new big Metolius bolts. This rappel with a single 160 foot rope reaches a small ledge just off the upper ramp from which you can downclimb. From here you are are right on top of the Veritgo raps and can reach the ground easily. By far, this... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There is an alternate rap anchor to the right of Reggae (when facing it) two new bolts. This will get you to a ledge that lets you traverse to the rap anchors on the first pitch of Calypso, and is probably the safest descent. The walkoff to the left is sketchy with loose rock, and continuing to the summit is annoying (although it is a cool summit) this rap station is a nice thing to know about, you can use it to descend from routes on the South Face too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is probably a good route for the first .10a trad lead, it is well protected and not too hard for the grade, and an enjoyable route (better than it looks from the ground)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The descent for this route is low fifth class, time consuming, and rather scary!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is possibly my most favorite route in Colorado.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9) : Photo
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: That second picture is pretty funny, a la Tom Cruise in MI:2. Wheres the hidden wire?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A red Metolius TCU, or FCU, or similar sixed cam fits perfectly where the pin used to be at the crux, so save this piece for the crux. If the routes to the left of it didn't exist, this would be the coolest 5.10 ever!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a short but very good climb, the protection is substanitially better than it appears from the base.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Tooth Slab (V-easy)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: These are beautiful slab problems, a very good way to get used to Lumpy footwork. Amazingly, there are four problems that have gone no hands on this boulder, the easiest is slightly left of the small dihedral, right of it is another difficult no-hands problem. Right of this one is a very scary, no-hands problem up the right arete, the hardest is on the left side below an obvious chicken head. Doing these no hands is an excellent challange and good footwork workout.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Pat's Slab (V2)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this problem yesterday during a day long bouldering session at lumpy. I should have given this three stars, it has cleaned up right now to be a solid delicate tall 5.11 slab, and absolutely beautiful and aesetic problem that few know about. With a couple crash pads it is pretty safe. There is an easier variation to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A shoulder length sling is helpful between the first and second bolts, you can sling a protrusion and eliminate any runout.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The second roof on this climb is a little hairy; stiff for the grade without reliable protection.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There actually two ways to do this pitch. After the initial finger crack one can go left up to a pin, or continue straight up and avoid the pin. Rossiter tells you to go straight up, I was confused and went left on some strenuous liebacking, still probably about .11a, perhaps a little more devious than going straight up? Going straight up to the belay from the pin looks really cool, however it gets .10+ in the old b.c. south and now gets .11d in the new guidebook!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I was looking in the guidebook today, and the runnout .8 crack I described for the start was listed as runnout .10! Its probably not that hard, but in retrospect it is harder than .8, maybe .9+ and definitely not a good fall potential. Why am I telling you this? Well it looks pretty simple from the ground, but is harder and definately dangerous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is more like .11c on lead, very continuous and endurance oriented.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The R rating on this route is not necessary. The lower roof eats nuts and tcus. The upper roof has a jug on the right you can hang and place a bomber #1 cam from, and the moves out the roof (technical laybacking) are not too strenuous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.


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