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The top of the tufa on Magma


Member Since: Oct 12, 2011
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Patrick Mulligan


Point Rank: # 554
Total Points: 1,078
Last Year: 266
Last 30 Days: 52
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 828 | Routes 55 | Areas 13 | Photos 41 | Page Improvments | Comments 128 | Posts 96 | Stars 434 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Just a note on Rope Length. A 60M rope will only just make it from Box Top / Proof of Purchase anchors as well as Far East. From the anchors at the top of PFM or All American Arete or the corner left of All American Hand Crack you need a 70M rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: I've taken to leaving a note on the dash when parking in the pull out saying "out hiking car not abandoned" and have not had a problem since I was warned about a year ago. There is alternative and only slightly longer aproach parking at the Rest Area and walking down from the PCT if folks don't want to risk it. This time of year its really a evening only crag, as the rock is dark and the routes face sun almost all day.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : All American Arete (5.9+ PG13)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: It is possible to lead the corner left of All American to All American Arete as a single pitch and still lower with a 70M. A 60 would not work. There was approximately 7' of rope at the end.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: This is great. The unknown route to the right of Proof of Purchase goes at 5.8 or so. Its a fun warm up although still needs to clean up.

Also bolt locations on Box Top and Proof of Purchase may not be accurate.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Proof of Purchase (5.9+ PG13)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Due to the quality of the old bolts and the possible long falls (who would have though the climb would be bold given the 1st ascentionists)- 5/16th button heads and flaked rusty hangers - this climb should only be toproped. I plan on replacing the old bolts with modern 1/2" hardware donated by the ASCA shortly. There is a new anchor at the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b) : Photo (Copy)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: That is actually DOWT.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Sleeper (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This route now has new 1/2" bolts courtesy of the ASCA. I was not able to remove the old 70's button heads (we were concerned about destroying the rock). I'll return with the right bit to drill out the heads and patch soon.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Malcolm's Route (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: There have been modern (4/19/14) bolts retrofitted to this route. There are modern 3/8ths in anchors added as well. Now you need 3 quickdraws and some thin nuts/cams in between for this route. It's run out to modern standards but to Toulumne standards is acceptable. The chain and links at the top are OK too.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Dark Special (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This area has seen some work in the last two years (today was 4/19/15) but someone added plated (rusted) washers to modern 3/8th in stainless hardware. Not perfect, but better than the old spinners that were here.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Left Side : Aja (5.10d)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Tape up. This enduro route is more about pain management than difficulty. It is now sharp but clean. Well protected, whoever added the modern 3/8ths hardware put plated (now really rusted) chains on this thing. I'll change it out the next time I'm here.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This area in the last two years has seen a lot of love. While there are still some issues to work out (whoever replaced the bolts used stainless bolts and plated washers (washers are rusted) most of the hardware looks good. Check recent comments for current status.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Laine, the original description in the guidebook had the route going up far right from where the bolt utilizing an easier face.

I personally thought the moves over the bulge at the bolt were harder than the moves getting into the finger crack. I also wasn't crazy about the gear above the bolts till the roof on the second pitch. I found myself wanting an offset Green/Yellow Alien or Totem Basic for the pod that provides the only real gear till the roof on the second pitch. That would have lo... more >>


Location: PA : Bellefonte Quarry
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: I can't seem to track down my old guide which has me somewhat freaked out at the moment, but I think you may be confusing White Lightning (the 5.7 discontinuous crack and pg-13 or R rated lead on the beginner wall)with White Line Fever. White Line Fever was a very narrow calcite filled crack at almost the end of the wall with crazy sharp and painful jams that went at roughly 5.12a or .12b and ended with some crazy run out hard slab moves. If that's what your talking about I believe its White L... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Mr. Clean (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: This one is much harder in the heat as the black rock remains warm and slick even after the route goes into the shade.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : The Arena : Jitters (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: We just left draws and picked them up on the way out.


Location: PA : Bellefonte Quarry : Manufractured (5.11c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Tape, Tape, Tape. This thing was one of my hardest climbs redpointed back in the day. At the time I thought the crux of the thing was climbing through the pain of the jams. Back in 96 or 97 I supplemented the bolts with a couple of stoppers. One of the middle bolts didn't even look good then.

Tape your tips and you will still be bloody, but it beats the alternative.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Sun Wall Area : First Crux (5.9+)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: 10' of good climbing followed by kitty litter choss for 30'. Don't let the pretty starting crack fool you.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: once the boomers kicked in?


Location: PA : Bellefonte Quarry : Coleman's Crack (5.10b)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: With decreased traffic this climb has gotten a little dirty. The leader may want both a toothbrush and a nut tool to clean out some of the grime from the crack. It definitely helps with gear placement and some of the smaller tips jams and crimps.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cowlick Crag : Flying Chuckwalla (5.7)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Its about 5.3 or 5.4 on the slab to the chain. You'd pretty much have to jump to fall off. That said, I did think that this was both a more difficult 5.7 with less obvious and more thoughtful moves than the 5.7 to the left. Great climb and great area for kids.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Donnie G : Whisker Biscuit (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Amazing hand jams with a strong move around a roof. There are two fixed camalots on this thing a #2 that you can't clip at the roof and the #3 mid way up the hand crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : Two Lips (5.7)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Watch loose rock between the two clean crack sections. If this thing was continuous it would be classic.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : Yellow Fin (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch of this route is a stellar 9+ crack through a roof. Everything is there, and it is technical hand crack climbing at its best.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : All You Can Eat (5.10d) : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: When did this bolt appear? It most definitely wasn't up there 10 years ago.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Two comments about this route: One, I also noticed Peter's 30' high crack which also had been climbed with apparent chalk but the description was pretty clear as to climbing up to the ledge. However, we did not climb up the corner as described, and instead followed a thin crack up the center of the buttress above. This went at 5.8+, had good gear and was very good climbing. Two, The decent is nowhere near the nightmare that people made it out to be. It is very well cairned. From the top ... more >>


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