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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rat Ramp (5.10-)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fun route. Perfectly bolted with just the right amount of spice.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Mr. Clean (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is as clean as I've ever seen it. I've never gotten on this because its normally filled with moss and munge. It was obvious that someone had done some cleaning, and I did much more - gardening out spots for nuts, etc. This is as good as it gets, with more traffic this thing would be perfect and loose the grit that has built up). Go get it, its a good one that packs a punch.
I'd bring a lot of finger (.3-.75 BD)sized gear and a full rack of nuts. I placed almost all finger sized gear a... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : New Moon (5.10d)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I figured I would get on this as a way to avoid the wide crack on Firecracker (didn't have anything larger than a #2 camalot) and got the send. It not a gimme but I found it more technical than powerful.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch A Cannibal (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't really know if this route is a separate route or if its just a variation to Touch and Go. 10 years ago this crack / corner was filled with choss,moss, and loose flakes. The last time I climbed T&G I climbed the corner because it looked like it had cleaned up so well. I stayed in the corner all the way to the top. I found this line more aesthetically pleasing, easier, and better protected than the original line of T&G. The stemming at the top is just plain wild. 10a seems like a str... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: How folks rate the a 2 star climb I simply don't understand. This thing is old school and classic!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : Classic Crack of Calico (5.9+)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this yesterday and what a route. Killing's description is right on, but I found the first pitch to be pretty fun. The wide crack and crumbly sections were serious and kind of sucked but the 25-30' of finger crack was technical and make you earn the first belay. Both the roof on the 2nd pitch and the money 3rd pitch are funky. I thought to myself on more than one occasion, "I've never done a move like that." The roof move was over with a knee bar and a long reach for me. 5.9 clim... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Blockbuster (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move from crack to chimney will most certain freak you out....
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meister's Edge : Malice Alice (5.10c PG13)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was around a year when I lived in Vegas when Chris Burton would suggest we do these climbs he would always refer to as obscure classics. The two climbs I remember most from those "obscure" days are Malice Alice and Shit Howdy. Most of the climbs were at about my limit, but somehow he would always coax me into and through the lead. On this particular day we walked back into this area and I racked up a little apprehensively as the route looked appealing down low, but crispy and sandy up h... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : The Whiff (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protection is all there if you're climbing at or above the grade.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Pillar Talk (5.7)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with SP/S on this. Its been years since I did this, but I remember getting a little gripped on the easy climbing on the second pitch. While there is a little gear there, the rock is very soft and if not careful you could go for one hell of a ride.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Mills Peak : Crack Shack : Finger Mill (5.11c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While Dan rated this 11b, The crank off of a very high undercling and tenuous stem to a jug at the crux felt like a solid V4 move. While this move was definately the crux and the rest of the route was a grade or so easier, calling this 11b or 11c felt like a sandbag to me. There's a bolt at your waist here, but that move is BURLY.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Spontaneous Enjoyment (5.8)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this to be a fun and at times commiting climb. Some of the rock is indeed suspect.
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Location: PA : Bellefonte Quarry
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Then again. I don't ever remember climbing at the Quarry when it was "open".
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Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock : Improbable (5.10b/c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like this climb. A bold and difficult start, thin protection and delicate climbing till it gets a little blocky on top. Pure Fun
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : the APRON : "woodthin" (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wheat Thin was bolted because there was legitimate concern that cams and gear in such a thin flake would damage the route and pull out if fallen upon.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : 2nd Alcove : I Be Jammin' (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. If The Perfect Lieback is 5.8, Quoia is 5.9, this is 10a for sure.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : 2nd Alcove : Quoia the Destroya (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool route. Climbs better than in looks from below. While much of the flakes ring hollow, its all solid. #6 is not necessary.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an awesome pic.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may be the hardest 5.9 that I've ever done. I've done it twice now and was sore the day after both goes. Its all there, but is delicate, powerful and technical at the same time through the crux. I thought it was as hard if not harder than the technical stemming on Over the Hill in Eldorado Canyon (10.b) although it is not as long.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Hospital Corner (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this again after 8 years or so from my original onsight of the climb. What a great route. The crux moves are technical and positive. Get on it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts on Power failure are fine now and completely clean. They do however look somewhat rusted (hangers are totally fine). Given that they're in an obvious area of run off they see a lot of water.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been wanting to get on this since Chris Burton told me about it a decade ago. While I thought there were more pumpy pitches, I found the pitch 2-3 combo to be the crux. Its a long pitch climbed this way and there are a lot of delicate and balancy moves that were far less obvious than the steeper pitches. I could see the roof on pitch four being really tough for shorter folks - and at 6' I found it to be dynamic. I broke a foothold on pitch two and there is a lot of loose stuff on that pitch... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Raindance (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper bolts are back.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just redid the route (was going to climb Amber but landed behind a party of three) this weekend. We broke it into three pitches and I have to say that the climb was very pleasant that way. The upper pitch retains its punch, but at least you're not fighting terrible rope drag through the crux.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Rainbow : Rainbow - Right Side : Dirty Deed (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a note. I added the route with its given grade from both the Carville and newer North Tahoe guide. I felt that the route was closer to 10a or maybe 10a/b relative to the other routes we climbed at Rainbow the day we spent there.
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