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Summit of Joy (III 5.8R) in Kananaskis, Alberta, Canada


Member Since: May 21, 2008
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Patrick Betts


Point Rank: # 3,007
Total Points: 156
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Betts been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts 24 | Stars 284 | Ratings 54

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: No topos available as of 10/22/13.

Here is the beta from our ascent yesterday.

Park at the second pullout on your left after crossing the creek via the bridge. Follow a well worn trail downhill; cross the river; and up hill to the base of slick rock.

The regular route (as we climbed it):
Pitch 1: starts at the base of an obvious 90' left facing flake/corner. Climb this and at the top of the flake traverse up and right unprotected across dikes to a two bolt anchor. 50m, 5.6... more >>


Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: No topo at the Ponderosa State Park VC, The National Forest office in town or Gravity Sports as of 10/22/13. An upload would be great.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Patrick Betts When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: I wasn't sure where the start of the route really began, and I could not see the first pitch belay slings from the ground, so I just picked a line and went. I ended up starting straight below the first pitch belay slings. You start by pulling a small roof while traversing up and left on chickenheads; then once you've surmounted the roof, you climb lichen covered slab until you get to blocky, red rock, a fixed pin, and then to the slung hole for the first pitch anchors. I thought this w... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Midget Toss (5.11c/d)
By: Patrick Betts When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: A bolt has been added (when, I don't know) to ease that runout - although the runout is not spicy at all. Great route, not slimy, eases up in the middle, stay left of the bolt line at the top to keep the difficulty.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this last week, and it's quite stellar. Was not nearly as involved and comitting as this page makes it come off as.

After pitch 1 (belay in a large waterstreak with good belay seats right next to a left-facing dihedral), just climb up 8 feet or so above the belay and make a right traverse under a rooflette, pop around the arete, and boogie up and left along the arete. I thought this was straightforward and that the route finding was neither complicated or hard.

I ended up linking pitch... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Solarian (5.10+)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday, 10/15. Great climb. Pitch 1 was the hardest pitch, for me, out of the three. Consists of hard slab and the pitch pretty much stays in your face the entire 130 feet. We got sun on pitch 3 right around 3:30pm.

To reiterate, definitely watch your gear placements on the crux roof on pitch 3 to avoid slicing your rope - especially if your second may or may not flash the roof. We suffered a (small) core shot even though our gear placements couldn't have been much better.

We r... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.9-)
By: Patrick Betts When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it again yesterday, 9/21, and did the finger crack variation on pitch 4. Stellar. With having done both options, the finger crack variation is definitely the way to go, in my opinion. Used just a #1 and 0.75 in the finger crack and that's it for the pitch. It does eat up gear though. Do it!


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.9-)
By: Patrick Betts When: Jun 20, 2012

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Comments: It's good to note that, personally, I believe the lower you traverse on pitch 3 the easier it is. However, you better be comfortable with a 40ft traverse on 5.7/5.8 slab. It seems the higher up the dihedral you wait, the more water-worn the slab gets. My 2-cents. Great climb!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: Found the directions to Helen's Dome to be a bit confusing and possible incorrect. But again, it could have been just me. We never did find Molly Gulch Campground, and I feel that this could be attributed to the fact that the NFS closed this campground? Either way, we drove all the way to the ranch and never found a campground. So, we just parked due west of the dome and walked from there.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: Did this route a few days ago. Very fun route! Missing a few hangers on pitches 4, 5, and 6. Just one on each pitch, though on very very easy (5.4, 5.5) terrain.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Out-of-Towners Dome : El Cautivo (5.9)
By: Patrick Betts When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this a week or so ago. A pretty fun route. If you end up at the base of Wasteland, it is advised to go back down and continue to Out of Towners instead of trying to cut straight across - or the approach could take you 3 hours.

A few spots (only on p2 & p3) were pretty stout for 5.9, as compared to other friction climbing I've done in Colorado and elsewhere.

Pitch 1 and 4 were the most enjoyable with 3 & 4 having the few 5.9 crux moves.

Climb on!