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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Event Horizon (5.10b R)
By: Pat W When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't lead this, but it seemed a bit easier than the 10b's nearby. Using a sidepull crimp on the left side of the arete through the crux may have helped. Maybe 5.10a + R-pucker factor means 5.10b? Nice route nonetheless, even better with a hard 10 start variation around to the left.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Mountains closed due to ext...
By: Pat W When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just called the forest service yesterday to inquire about when they might reopen San Bernadino National Forest. The ranger I talked to said that the forest would be closed "until the temperatures drop and we get some rain." With no rain and warmish temperatures forecasted for the next week, its not likely the forest will open any time soon. Kind of a bummer, we're missing some prime climbing weather.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Big Moe (5.11a/b R)
By: Pat W When: Oct 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, reachy or dynamic crux and creepy pump up high. If it's the roped equivalent to gunsmoke, maybe I just don't have it wired yet. Seemed a bit harder than V2. Good stuff, 3 of 5 stars for a toprope. Would be a quite proud lead.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Ocean Of Night (aka Out To ... (5.10c)
By: Pat W When: Oct 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the m... more >>
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek
By: Pat W When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts above the first waterfall are trashed as a result of the flash flood. One hanger is gone and the bolt completely smashed down, and the other bolt is nearly torn out. Rapelling to the lower level is sketchy, as few natural anchors exist. But hey, with a few more of those flash floods, and the canyon just might return to pre-rockside conditions.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Pat W When: Aug 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Lickety Splits (5.7 R)
By: Pat W When: Jan 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regardless, this route is 5.7X. The initial section is nice secure fingers, but above, falling is not an option. The upper slab is fun and committing, but not for novice moderate leaders. A fall up high = dirt nap.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Diamond Dogs (5.10a)
By: Pat W When: Jan 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Initial section is the definite crux. If you you're nervous on the undercling (expando pro sucks), have a spotter and crash pad. From there, medium/thin cams and nuts in the flake, as well as a cool head up top will get you through. The physical difficulty comes early. Nice, varied, fun route.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Pat W When: Oct 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good cruiser stuff up a nobby dike. Besides the traverse above the roof early on, the descent is the headiest part. Going down the cables is quite exposed. And the freaked out asian lady screaming chinese profanities whilst not letting go of either cable, makes the route memorable.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Watanobe Wall (5.10a)
By: Pat W When: Sep 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun crux which is very hand size dependent. I've got big meat paws so I could fist jam the crux, where smaller hands may have a tougher time. Good stuff.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Bloody Englishman (5.8)
By: Pat W When: Jun 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say the initial moves in the crack earn a 5.8, somehwhat strenuous. Reach high for the first jam with wide jams for feet. Those with smaller hands will find the start tough, stacked hands or hand and fist, hand size dependant. I could reach for a fist jam where my partner had to do a weird stack move (hard for an 8 move for her). Easy after the opening jams. Also, no need to undercling the start, just some stemming. "Spread you legs and trust the rubber." Haha. One star out of three.... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Pat W When: Jun 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placed two #3s (Camalot) and a #4. Bring big stuff if you want to sew it up. Nice route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Honky Jam Ass Crack (5.7)
By: Pat W When: Jun 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route, eats up gear, bulletproof So Platte granite. Be careful setting up a toprope, there's a rope eating flake in the wide crack at the top. Set a directional off to the side to keep both strands out of the crack. Good stuff, more stars if it were longer.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes
By: Pat W When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Navajo formation here?
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Edger Sanction (5.10a)
By: Pat W When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of Big Rock's best. Clean thin edges, sustained. Might want a spot to the first bolt.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Rat Crack (5.9+)
By: Pat W When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit of a sandbag here, awkward greasy jams with no feet at the start. 10b ish.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Campfire Crag : ... : Campfire Girl (5.11d R)
By: Pat W When: Feb 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why the R? Is that for the initial section or the upper slab?
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