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Member Since: Jul 8, 2006
Last Visit: Nov 10, 2011
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Point Rank: # 15,675
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Papa Sims

 
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All (3) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (3) | Posts | Stars | Ratings

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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes
By: Papa Sims When: Jul 4, 2010

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Comments: Does anyone have any beta on Black Hole? Good rock, worth doing? Wondering what big gear to bring(is extra wide gear needed for belays, etc.). Also wanted to know if the first pitch is always wet?

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Papa Sims When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: Much easier than Big Baby.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Papa Sims When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: one would have to be very slender to squeeze the bulge/crux- I tried but didn't fit. I worked a left chicken wing, left foot cam with right hand using crimps and slopers to work my way up the first part of the bulge. When I could no longer reach the crack with my left foot, I cut loose and threw a high heel hook with my right foot and manteled over the roof. After that its 6-?inches of staight forward OW to the chains(a #4 or #5 big bro would be needed to protect the last 10 feet)