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preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, ...


Member Since: Nov 23, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 13, 2014
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Point Rank: # 7,551
Total Points: 40
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 68 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 49 | Stars 4 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route

Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route

North America : Canada : ... : Bravo Glacier (5.7 AI3 M3+ Steep Snow)

Jun 4, 2011

AMU, 02/12/2011.

AMU, 02/12/2011.

Colorado : The 2010 Colorado Ice Condi... : Post

Feb 14, 2011

Black Lake Slabs, 02/12/2011.

Black Lake Slabs, 02/12/2011.

Colorado : The 2010 Colorado Ice Condi... : Post

Feb 14, 2011

Black Lake Slabs, 02/12/2011.

Black Lake Slabs, 02/12/2011.

Colorado : The 2010 Colorado Ice Condi... : Post

Feb 14, 2011

Crystal Meth; Loch Vale Gorge.

Crystal Meth; Loch Vale Gorge.

Colorado : The 2010 Colorado Ice Condi... : Post

Feb 1, 2011

Looking toward Mixed Feelings and Mo'Flo from belo...

Looking toward Mixed Feelings and Mo'Flo from below Crystal Meth.

Colorado : The 2010 Colorado Ice Condi... : Post

Feb 1, 2011

preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, ...

preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route

OReid : Avatar

Nov 23, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Quandary Peak/Blue Lakes : McCullough Gulch : Claim Jumper (WI3 M3)
By: OReid When: Oct 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! Fun solid climbing.

As of yesterday, 10/7/2013, there were three nice long pitches of climbing (550') with plenty of ice. The protection was quite good but sometimes a bit tricky. Bring a few pins. The descent gully was iced up enough that we opted to do one rappel and a pitch of belayed down climbing. Perhaps overly cautious, but I think warranted given the incredible amount of loose rock.

Also, while I don't recommend trespassing, we met Walter, the guy who works the small famil... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Coast Range : ... : Bravo Glacier (5.7 AI3 M3+ Steep Snow)
By: OReid When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Not sure how a 7500' high route can get a "grade III", when every bit of elevation gain is technical to some degree. The Waddington Guide gives it TD- for good reason. It has been completed in a single push, but not by mere mortals. Grade V at least.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: OReid When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: Great climb! You can easily link the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd and 4th pitches, making it to the top in three full rope lengths. We didn't experience any rope-drag issues with doing it this way. A #4 Camalot is useful but not required. I felt that this climb was more 5.8 than 5.7, but that could be a matter of route finding, which isn't obvious. It seemed that there could be several variations to each pitch.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades
By: OReid When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: The North Cascades are composed of a wide variety of rock types, but primarily Skagit gneiss, not granite. The rock tends to be crumbly, but there are pockets of good firm climbing. Forbidden Peak, Gunsight Mountain, Dome Peak, and Goode Mountain come to mind as being particularly solid. As the pictures above indicate, it is not the rock quality, but the glaciation and alpine ambiance that make this range unique in the lower 48!


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt Triumph : NE Ridge (Easy 5th PG13)
By: OReid When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: The above description is for the NE ridge, NOT the NW ridge. As of 2008 glacial recession obviates the need for any glacier travel gear other than ice axe and crampons (depending on snow conditions). The route can be simul-climbed in it's entirety with a light rack and a doubled half-rope. Two ropes recommended for the descent as the intermediate (30 m) rap anchors are sketch. Descent of the NE ridge will easily take as long or longer than the ascent.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Mt. Moran CMC conditionsColoradoOReidJun 25, 2014
re: The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread ColoradoOReidMar 5, 2013
re: Cascades in SeptemberPacific NorthwestOReidFeb 22, 2013
re: Tetons conditions, early June, Cathedral TraverseColoradoOReidFeb 22, 2013
re: Talking about science because mother doesn't love me.Climbing Gear DiscussionOReidMar 31, 2012
re: Talking about science because mother doesn't love me.Climbing Gear DiscussionOReidMar 31, 2012
re: Girth Hitching vs Looping SlingsClimbing Gear DiscussionOReidJan 28, 2012
re: Cloudveil Jacket and a Das Parka competitorClimbing Gear DiscussionOReidJan 22, 2012
re: New climbing gym in DenverColoradoOReidJan 6, 2012
re: Lower Me, Baby!!Climbing Gear DiscussionOReidJan 3, 2012
re: Canister or liquid fuel stoves? Climbing Gear DiscussionOReidDec 29, 2011
re: Canister or liquid fuel stoves? Climbing Gear DiscussionOReidDec 28, 2011
re: The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions ThreadColoradoOReidDec 16, 2011
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