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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Total Points: 246
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 831 | Routes 14 | Areas 4 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 33 | Posts 744 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The two angle pitons that are part of the p1 anchor on this route are severely corroded and should not be trusted (look at the right side of the right one and the (completely missing) left side of the left one. The knifeblade looks OK but appears to be of similar vintage so who knows. I'd consider backing this gear up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Immaculate Virgin (5.6 PG13)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to prot... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Really cool route but surprisingly short! As others have said it's really important to protect the second as they do the final move onto the summit, using something in the red C3 kind of size. It would not be at all good if your second took that swing.

I think some of the comments about the mantel are a little extreme. You can get several quite good cams which will be at your feet for the move. I think 7 is pretty fair.

People are quite right about needing a tiny rack. A long piece of cord i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: As of March 16th, 2015 the lower of the two anchor bolts on the southwest summit can be turned a bit in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. Unfortunately I didn't have the knowledge or equipment to address this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Farm Boy (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Blue camalots useful on this route, one for initial roof and 2 or 3 up in the upper corner. Interesting climbing, good offwidth/fist puzzle at the start, kind of old school 9.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Dr. Carl (5.10-)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route ... (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: If you don't have a big stack of #3's, there are a few places in the middle of the pitch where some #2's will work. I found the 3.5 I had to be a bit of a pain, only a few very specific places it would go.

Soft for the grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: For p1 we found blue camalots really useful, three at least, plus a 4 camalot for the pod. Nice route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: If this one is a challenging grade for you, I think you'll be psyched to have at least one more #1 and #2 than the suggested rack above. I know I would have been!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Bit of an epic on this one for me!
- First pitch I found to be fairly easy but quite run out, and the climbing very much not worth the risk. I'll use the Red Pillar start next time.
- Williams gives p2 5.9G, but I wasn't able to get gear within about 10 feet of the crux move and so decided to back off after trying to climb through 6 or 7 times. The fall looked pretty safe, but longer than I liked. Have to come back for a rematch on that one!
- Wish I'd seen kswissto's comments on the 3rd pitc... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: A little (actually a lot of) gear beta:
-there are a couple of funny little pods in the crack toward the bottom of the first pitch. I found smallish hybrid mastercams handy there, and a pink or black tricam would probably work too. I mention this because either way this is not gear that everyone carries all the time...

-there is a nice red/yellow camalot placement just as you're pulling through the little p1 overlap into the base of the left-facing corner. You have to stop in the middle of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : High Plains Drifter (5.10 R)
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came abou... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: I'd done P1 about 5 times over the years but had never gone higher.

P2 is pleasant although dead easy (place 1 piece).

P3 is really quite cool. I have to say that I think 5.6 is pretty fair, but I did notice (BETA ALERT) that it was a little tricky to get good gear where you wanted it, because the good gear is actually right in the middle of the crux. I chose to pull on through and then was like, "hmm, now I'm kind of looking at a ledge fall, not quite what I'd had in mind," and so place... more >>


Location: Training : Hangboard Workouts for Clim...
By: Optimistic When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: 1) Probably obvious, but an easy bouldering session at the gym would be perhaps the ideal warmup.
2) Beastmaker offers a superb and free hangboard timer app for smartphones. With it you can program in a number of reps, hang time and rest time for each rep on the hangboard, and then a rest interval between sets. Plus annoying beeping (mutable if you want) to keep the pressure on!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Moondance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: We really liked this one. Good gear is abundant throughout, this would be a nice early trad lead for someone (although not their first lead, I'd say).

I wouldn't agree that there is a lot of loose rock. However, there most certainly are a couple of very good-sized blocks right above the ledge with the tree. These are obvious and easy to tiptoe around. The rest of the rock is perfect...although I'll admit there's a decent amount of lichen on both this route and Sundance. That's the price of... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: This is a really pleasant route, with a lot of nice climbing. The climbing I'd say is slightly more challenging and interesting than Moondance, and the gear, while fine, is a little more spaced in spots than on Moondance, so if you're a budding leader, you might want to warm up on Moondance first.

We avoided the tree and diagonaled right from the initial face onto the face above the ledge. The tree would add some drag if you clipped it.

Also, you may want a couple of smallish wires (not micr... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Monty's original beta for this route is excellent...so excellent in fact that at times I felt like we were cheating a little bit by having it on the route! But that didn't stop us from looking at it.

Anyway, I would add a few really minor points
-We used Bechtel for the slabs approach. I think that inexperienced climbers would be pretty freaked to go that way without a rope. Not hard, but you're in the no-fall zone for a long time. If you or your second doesn't solo 5.2 with a pack, you may... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Crash and Burn (5.9+ R)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the posting above: it would actually be quite a shame to jeopardize access to the REST of the climbs in the Gunks, all of which are on private land and open to climbers thanks to the climber-friendly attitude of the Preserve, so that you can briefly amuse yourself on this route (which does indeed sound totally awesome). I'm bummed to miss out on these routes, too, but I'd be a whole lot more bummed if the rest of my home crags were also closed due to some stunt at Skytop.

Please do... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek : Frogger (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: I second the above comment, nothing bigger than a #3 is needed to lead it, and you could probably figure out an anchor with 2's and 3's as well. Pretty nice route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route?


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : S'estret : ... : Mario moreno (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Super polished, and to me not really that fun as a result. I guess the OP is right that this is probably 5.8, but the polish makes it feel like you're going to pop the whole time.


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