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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Total Points: 227
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 687 | Routes 14 | Areas 4 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 614 | Stars 29 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Bit of an epic on this one for me!
- First pitch I found to be fairly easy but quite run out, and the climbing very much not worth the risk. I'll use the Red Pillar start next time.
- Williams gives p2 5.9G, but I wasn't able to get gear within about 10 feet of the crux move and so decided to back off after trying to climb through 6 or 7 times. The fall looked pretty safe, but longer than I liked. Have to come back for a rematch on that one!
- Wish I'd seen kswissto's comments on the 3rd pitc... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: A little (actually a lot of) gear beta:
-there are a couple of funny little pods in the crack toward the bottom of the first pitch. I found smallish hybrid mastercams handy there, and a pink or black tricam would probably work too. I mention this because either way this is not gear that everyone carries all the time...

-there is a nice red/yellow camalot placement just as you're pulling through the little p1 overlap into the base of the left-facing corner. You have to stop in the middle of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : High Plains Drifter (5.10 R)
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came abou... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: I'd done P1 about 5 times over the years but had never gone higher.

P2 is pleasant although dead easy (place 1 piece).

P3 is really quite cool. I have to say that I think 5.6 is pretty fair, but I did notice (BETA ALERT) that it was a little tricky to get good gear where you wanted it, because the good gear is actually right in the middle of the crux. I chose to pull on through and then was like, "hmm, now I'm kind of looking at a ledge fall, not quite what I'd had in mind," and so place... more >>


Location: Training : Hangboard Workouts for Clim...
By: Optimistic When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: 1) Probably obvious, but an easy bouldering session at the gym would be perhaps the ideal warmup.
2) Beastmaker offers a superb and free hangboard timer app for smartphones. With it you can program in a number of reps, hang time and rest time for each rep on the hangboard, and then a rest interval between sets. Plus annoying beeping (mutable if you want) to keep the pressure on!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Moondance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: We really liked this one. Good gear is abundant throughout, this would be a nice early trad lead for someone (although not their first lead, I'd say).

I wouldn't agree that there is a lot of loose rock. However, there most certainly are a couple of very good-sized blocks right above the ledge with the tree. These are obvious and easy to tiptoe around. The rest of the rock is perfect...although I'll admit there's a decent amount of lichen on both this route and Sundance. That's the price of... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: This is a really pleasant route, with a lot of nice climbing. The climbing I'd say is slightly more challenging and interesting than Moondance, and the gear, while fine, is a little more spaced in spots than on Moondance, so if you're a budding leader, you might want to warm up on Moondance first.

We avoided the tree and diagonaled right from the initial face onto the face above the ledge. The tree would add some drag if you clipped it.

Also, you may want a couple of smallish wires (not micr... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Monty's original beta for this route is excellent...so excellent in fact that at times I felt like we were cheating a little bit by having it on the route! But that didn't stop us from looking at it.

Anyway, I would add a few really minor points
-We used Bechtel for the slabs approach. I think that inexperienced climbers would be pretty freaked to go that way without a rope. Not hard, but you're in the no-fall zone for a long time. If you or your second doesn't solo 5.2 with a pack, you may... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Crash and Burn (5.9+ R)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the posting above: it would actually be quite a shame to jeopardize access to the REST of the climbs in the Gunks, all of which are on private land and open to climbers thanks to the climber-friendly attitude of the Preserve, so that you can briefly amuse yourself on this route (which does indeed sound totally awesome). I'm bummed to miss out on these routes, too, but I'd be a whole lot more bummed if the rest of my home crags were also closed due to some stunt at Skytop.

Please do... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek : Frogger (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: I second the above comment, nothing bigger than a #3 is needed to lead it, and you could probably figure out an anchor with 2's and 3's as well. Pretty nice route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route?


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : S'estret : ... : Mario moreno (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Super polished, and to me not really that fun as a result. I guess the OP is right that this is probably 5.8, but the polish makes it feel like you're going to pop the whole time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wisecrack (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade. I'd call it more educational than fun: gear is fairly tricky to place (lots of flares and crystals to deal with) and the moves are a little awkward.

I'd agree that the move at the end of the crack is a bit of a surprise as well, and gear is below your feet (so far as I could tell) when you pull the move.

[Edit: ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Maybe whoever it was that said they were rare was just looking in the wrong place! Cool looking little things, although probably I'd think they were less cool if one of them had tried to steal something from me as other folks seem to be saying.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Apr 9, 2011

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Comments: I'd read up a little about these after seeing one (at night) at the base of Unimpeachable Groping up by Ginger Buttress. The things I've read described them as quite rare, but I've seen one and clearly you have too. Do people see them often at RR?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 18, 2010

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Comments: This is a cool route, all the way to the top. I disagree with a prior comment: I would link P1 and P2. If you are belaying at the P1 tree and the leader falls off the crux move, he/she will hit both the belayer and the tree, most likely, and do so with about 10 feet of rope out. Safer to add a few long slings on P1 to deal with the drag, and just cruise on through to the P2 belay. Plus that little tree would prefer you leave it alone and just back up the pin above with a 2" cam.

Pretty co... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: I second (fourth?) all the comments about the big gear. You'll definitely find spots where you'll be relieved to have it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: Really nice route. Definitely linking the two pitches is the way to go. Don't rap or TR off the tree at the first belay, it has enough problems without adding your weight to the list.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Geyikbayiri is a blast. Really fun climbing starting at around F4 and heading on up to way harder than I can do. Well-bolted, but with enough space between the bolts to keep you focused. Really nice people from all over Europe, great weather, and great rock. We took a shuttle from the airport to our B&B and walked everywhere for the whole week except on one rest day, when we rented a car from Josito. If you stay at Josito (they were full when we tried to book), you'll have a couple of hundr... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Footloose (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: I thought this was a nice little pitch. Pro is quite good. While not essential, a 3.5 camalot (new 3 and old 4 don't work, a new #4 probably would) was an extra bit of truck-ness below the crux. As noted in main description, traversing over to Tennish Anyone anchor is a great idea. The Tennish Anyone belay tree looks a little tired: I was glad to have a #2 Camalot to back it up so we could TR Tennish Anyone, which is a truly superb little route.