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Member Since: May 1, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 19, 2004
Contact Old Fart aka Dave Bohn


Point Rank: # 1,265
Total Points: 487
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Old Fart aka Dave Bohn been climbing?










Old Fart aka Dave Bohn

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 190 | Routes 30 | Areas 2 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 19, 2004

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Comments: For many months, there's been a guidebook available at my gym for "The Palisades". Funny how there's a book out publishing routes in a closed area ! Wishfull thinking ?


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 16, 2004

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Comments: Actually, Piano Ridge is CLOSED !!. It's part of an Open Space area (open for what I don't know but it's closed to all "off-trail" use including climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Across The River From Butt ... (5.9 PG13)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: In response to "Where is Butt Hair": it is what would now be called a "Squeezed Route" between the west BUTTress and HAIR city on the Bastille, FA: Rob Candelaria & Dave Bowers, 1974 led in fine Trad form not using pro on either route = 5.9+ VS. It's listed in every guidebook I know of.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Sep 3, 2004

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Comments: "By: Jeremy Monahan On: Fri Sep 3 17:43:00 2004 Comments: I heard a rumor that the guy developing the Palace got wasted one night, got into a fight with the FS guys, and now it is closed. I guess he was doing a good job until then, but he screwed up and got it closed. Is this true, or is it just a tall tale?? "

Absolutely untrue !! It was a combination of 2 things.

#1 : Unauthorized trail construction on FS land. A biggie, but they were still willing to negotiate at that point

@POU... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental Block Traverse (V9)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: F.A. Steve [Mammen]..... "Back in the day"; when Steve showed it to me; he started from the "Pinch" and traversed left to finish under the N overhang. The crux was getting past the "Standard" route and dropping down onto the incredibly sharp prickly rail that runs across the start of the "Fingerlock".


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Spider God (5.11b R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Mar 6, 2004

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Comments: I've climbed Spider God and Gunga din and thought SG was much harder, probably more than 1 letter grade, so I'd go 11b/c. Once I hit Fall Wall's "crux" it made Fall Wall feel 5.8 ! I did the first 2 bolts straight up on Spider God.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Second Iteration (5.10d)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Feb 1, 2004

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Comments: The only way to keep this in the 10 range is to move left and finish up Sore-a-pod. I managed after, several hangs, to forge it straight up the final headwall without using any of the crack to keep it "clean"and repeated it for the redpoint but it's way hard that way, don't even want to venture a guess at a grade, at least 11d or better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Jan 18, 2004

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Comments: VHS or Beta ? It's not a route name from Rifle, it's the afore-mentioned post regarding the arguements about the preferred video tape "standard" at the time. The very first climbing videos were issued on Betamax not VHS. Given the love for contractions, Betamax was shortened to Beta. Having previously viewed the video's and memorized the sequence from the video the term "Getting the Beta" sprang into the vernacular.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Upper Blair Boulder Problem... : Behind Blue Eyes (5.11b)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Dec 26, 2003

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Comments: You actually found it? I've tried several times to locate this route but was never able to find it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Re: Bob's and my exchange. I posted a lot of trivia to Tony that got ended up in "other comments" for some reason at the bottom of the page.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: You mean the Mag. that's in my photo below? I've still got Climbing Nov/Dec '72; now that's a classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Got it here Tony ,"Kloberdanz Construction Company", Kor was taking odd and end jobs to supply his climbing habit and at the time he did this route, was working for them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: If I can remember right in my advancing years, Kor was a "hoddy" at a masonry company named "Kloeber Mason's " (or something very close).


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Nov 26, 2003

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Comments: As there is no bolting ban in effect in the area and let's face it, every sport crag on the Front Range is on FS land from , Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, the 'Vrain, the Monistary, Jug Dome,Mary's Lake, etc. Thats because climbing is a recognized "offical" use of FS land. If I'm sorting out the facts right though, if somebody went ahead and actually "built" a trail without a permit, rather then just setting out a few cairns and waiting for the streaming hordes of feet to do the rest, then that... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Nov 13, 2003

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Comments: The thing I do remember most, was how hard it was to find a clearing in all the posion ivy big enough to flake my rope out and get my belayer in!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Enchanted Porkfist (5.11a)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Nov 7, 2003

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Comments: You're right, Matt, power and endurance isn't worth shite at the "Dark Side" it's all about finese aka "technique and balance", a form of climbing that has all but disappeared from the sport climbing scene. That's why this is my favorite climb at Shelf.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Wheel of Fortune (5.10a)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 24, 2003

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Comments: Ivan said " a two star 80 foot sport route at Avalon must be as good as a two star multipitch Eldo route. And hence, I feel most sport routes rate only one star." I can't agree with this statement. I can have as much satisfaction from climbing a V3 boulder, or a 5 pitch 5.8, or a 23 pitch El cap route, or an 80' sport route. Climbing is climbing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 17, 2003

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Comments: "Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Ga-stoned Again (5.9)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 16, 2003

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Comments: Yes this is "Gastoned Again", Rick calls it 10a/b. I did it last year just after it had been bolted and the start was pretty loose but the last 3/4's was stellar.There are also 4 other Thompson routes in the vicinity including the next bolted route to the right, "The Raw and the Roasted" that a lot of people think might be "The Best Route at Shelf". And this doesn't include "Pulley Mammoth" the furthest left route, "Natty Dread", an old route , 1st route left of "Gastoned", and the unnamed Van... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Armistice (AKA The Armisist... (5.10b)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 15, 2003

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Comments: Don't know where the 5.9 came from, should be 5.10b.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Meditation Boulder : Tommy's Way (V5)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 13, 2003

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Comments: If I remember correctly; this is a notorious Tom Kelly sandbag. Looks V0-: probably closer to V3/4 but a great sandbag to throw a visiting friend on !! And yes, it is the crack/seam that is just above the S roof on Meditation Rock. Enjoy (your friends thrashings) !


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Armistice (AKA The Armisist... (5.10b)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 13, 2003

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Comments: One of the newer, really, great routes ! Think undercling, undercling, undercling ! The roof can be a little challenging for shorter climbers. Personally I think this is much better than Suburbia and usually do it every time I'm there as a "warm-up" .


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Oct 13, 2003

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Comments: I haven't been to Alaska, but I've never seen so many mosquitos in my life, in the trees and at the base of this climb ! We ran out screaming!!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Gollum's Arch (5.10b/c)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Sep 30, 2003

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Comments: So what Renny, I did this in '76, and I think the grade holds through. An excellent route and don't be afraid of the roof. If you can make it that far, you've got the guns to pull it no problem (I thought the roof was 5.8). Enjoy !


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Lightning Rock : Short Circuit (5.9 R)
By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn When: Sep 3, 2003

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Comments: Forget Justin's comment. I did this years ago and the "S" rating on the first pitch had me rattled, but I found it to protect easily. I thought the 2nd pitch took a lot more skill at finding pro and was harder for me. In any case, I don't think this route deserves an "S" rating.


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