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Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 456
Total Points: 1,334
Last Year: 161
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2637 | Routes 72 | Areas 11 | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 264 | Posts 1155 | Stars 1014 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Little Feat (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a rewarding lead indeed!

One of my Donner Pass face climbing favorites. Watch that second clip!

I will honor the original rating while knowing better in my heart.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : The Thing (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Direct variation: Harder moves than Peter Principle.

Overall, the climb is probably as sustained as Peter Principle, and more pumpy in nature. Also, we were unable to find the 5.10c version of this climb. Coming in from the right seems harder than the direct variation. Is this an old sand bag, or are we missing some key beta on the sloper traverse?

The direct variation protects pretty well, though there will be a run out (that appears safe) from pulling the bulge to the hand jams above the sl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Slipstream (5.11a/b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: Sometimes offset fingers were the cam to rock but largely .75" and smaller of any variety will see you through. With the exception of the 3" behind the flake/pod, of course.

Very cool flaring crack lie backs with an emphasis on footwork. I will be back for the rp. This climb should get tried more, it is quality. Looking forward to trying more of The Imaginary Voyage soon!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : Strangler Cliff : Strangle Hold (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Welcome to the one hang TR downgrade, son!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: That's the real angle, btw. OOTD juts out of the sheer vertical mountainside like a great granite teat.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Vanishing Point (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: If you scrambled up to the base of the climb, the first pitch can be TRd or rapped with a 70m. Probably the first two pitches can be rapped in two with a 70m.

For one reason or another we only did the first pitch, but what a pitch it is. It felt like a bit of Yosemite at the the Leap with some of the tastiest wide climbing I have climbed in Tahoe. It is a complete head scratcher this thing isn't as popular as Hospital Corner and the like.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Missing Mind (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: This climb deserves more travel, it will not disappoint Snowshed arÍte afficianados.

Invigorating moves above bolts, crimps, slopers, and an exciting mantle, oh my!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : ... : Numb Bunion (5.10+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: A #4 camalot was the perfect first piece in the obvious, large pod where the crack climbing begins.

In terms of rock quality and difficulty, this climb is up there with The Fracture at Sugarloaf for me. Once spied, this line needs to be climbed.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : 2nd Tier
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: It didn't seem bad in the loose department. Yeah, no chains needed for the fat hangers.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Totem Pile and the climbs right of it are closed for nesting falcons, per a sign posted by The Access Fund and that I saw on 4/21/14. The falcons are there, please respect the closure.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: This route and ones right of it are closed for nesting falcons, per a sign posted at the base by The Access Fund.. Sign seen on 4/21/14, unsure when this will be lifted. Please respect the closure. Thanks.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Pinball Junkie (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: The crack is of the jam when you have to, escape to face climbing when you can variety.

The crux is... mysterious. There seems to be at least three ways of doing it and they are all hard to transition into. This climb is at least 5.10d.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that all makes sense. I need to climb it again when I get back there! The last two pitches are some of the best I've climbed at woodfords.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I mostly agree with your assessment, Sal, but would still hesitate to call the first pitch straightforward (not sure where "drama" comes in). Maybe we cleaned some of the crumble off on our ascent, or maybe you just handle it better. That is what I meant by "testy". Maybe "tenuous" would have seemed less dramatic wording to you? Ball bearing-like crumble I found certainly qualified as tenuous to me anyway!

I mostly went with (I believe) Dan K's grades since he's doing the guidebook, with the ex... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : TM's Deviation (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!

I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that m... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Fortunately.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag : FM a.k.a. F*%K Me (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: My apologies, you rated it the mysterious grade of onsight 5.11. Jackson is right though, this is in no way part of the 5.11 family. I onsighted this while shit faced. Then I top roped it clean in running shoes right after. Pretty sure that wouldn't have been the case on anything close to the grade you claim.

As a head's up, people nowadays usually rate something "5.11" if it is in the solid, harder end of the range. On this site, for instance, "5.11" is between 5.11b and 5.11c when rating a cl... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag : FM a.k.a. F*%K Me (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Yup, Ron Anderson claims 'er. Rated it 5.11c instead of what I thought was 5.10c? Dunno who placed the anchors or when.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Monkey Flower (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: My partner and I agreed, this is a high quality addition to the Loaf. Micro cams for the initial seam, then placed a yellow/green offset alien and yellow offset nut at the horizontal break just after the second bolt (a number two or three camalot may work in the larger pod). A number one camalot fit behind the route's one detracting feature in a rotten flake (perhaps placing one more bolt would be in order to avoid this potential hazard?).

Thoughtful face climbing with interesting balance moves... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: A finger-sized piece before the mantle seems warranted. Tricky, fun climbing.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : ... : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Screw the climbing, this is an EXCELLENT photo of a Petzl Ange draw! [/salivate]


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The Needles Novitiate Climbs

Twas' not unchained by Igor
nor slipped upon Thin Ice
Fancy Free went with ease
And Airy was just as nice


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: As long as you didn't pinch a loaf.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: For the record, JW, that's a pretty simplistic misreading. One could argue that it's willful even. I guess it's a convenient - if completely baffling - sidestep.


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