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 ADVANCED
A brilliant climb.


Member Since: Dec 9, 2005
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Ol' Toby


Point Rank: # 1,886
Total Points: 323
Last Year: 83
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ol' Toby been climbing?










Contributions


All 1631 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 29 | Stars 798 | Ratings 691
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Numbah Ten (5.12)
By: Ol' Toby When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: To me, this pitch represents the paradigmatic technical granite problem: when a feature is devoid of holds to pull on in a downward direction, how does one accomplish continuous upward movement? While many climbing difficulties succumb to an abundance of power in the fingers, the granite flare instead demands balance, precision, and strong legs.

The key move to enter the flare appears effortless when deftly performed yet can feel dang impossible in low-friction conditions. Excellent climbing i... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : Sunnyvale
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: As mentioned, fantastic sheltered winter crag. Props to Peavy and Beavers for their work here.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Rustic Wilderness (5.13b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Proud effort by Mr. Scott. I thought this might deserve a solid .13 grade, but I'm on the shorter side YMMV.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Electric Ocean : Prometheus Rising (5.13)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: This is, by far, the most striking trad line in the Poudre Canyon. Absolutely incredible climbing and a brilliant effort by Mr. Cross.

Needs a second ascent!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : The Beach : Harmonic Resonance (5.13c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: This route is killer. HARD for a little shortie! Perfect for the boulderer on a rope.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : The Beach : Frosted Fracture (5.12c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Really quality route with interesting and fun moves. Will get another star as the rock cleans up.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : Vista Crag
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Credit to Mr. Collin Kopitzki for the brilliant naming of this crag.

"You can literally cruuuuuuuuuuuuuuise the Vistas."



Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : Vista Crag : Eukie Arete (5.13a/b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Man... I've taken that whipper so many times. I'm fairly certain this is the only 12+ I've never been able to do all the moves on!

Regardless of the grade, this is a striking, awesome line, and Eukie was an awesome dog.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Wihizzle Dihizzle (5.12c/d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: A rest before the final crux drops the grade slightly, but this one is on you all the way to the end.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Landing Strip (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: Brilliant. Best shortie hard route in the canyon along with the routes on the Beach.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Wild and Scenic (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route with killer position above the Poudre. The upper crux sequence is pumpy, techy, and powerful.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Great vision by the FA party to see and equip this line. Superbly thin and technical movement. Definitely easier when conditions are crisp.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Black Cat Bone (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt should also definitely go.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Perfect, thanks John. Nope, I haven't been on this one yet. Was just over yesterday checking out your routes at Lookout Point. Some good stuff there!!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: You are correct John. I can't delete the photo with your comment on it, but if you remove your comment, I'll delete the photo.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Like Honey (5.12a/b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Worthy. The boulder problem at the fourth bolt and the traverse into the Walter B crack both feature fun technical sequences on quality rock.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Blue in the Face (5.12c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Quality climbing on this one. Athletic sidepulls on positive holds lead to a balance move to gain the dihedral, immediately followed by a deceptive power move to the next clipping stance. More cool finger-slot sidepulls then lead up to a final, easier crux. Deserves more traffic.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Twelve Gauge IQ (5.12)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is really fun. Despite it's bolted nature, the dihedral climbing is high quality on beautiful stone and the roof succumbs to good beta and a few gymnastic pulls. No doubt easier than the other .12c I've tried at Index.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : The Passenger (5.11+)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Superb route! The start is further down the gully than we originally thought. You can't simply traverse the wall from the South Arete, but rather have to head away from the wall a bit and down the gully for 10 minutes or so. Once the ledges leading up from the gully in Blake's beta photo come into view the start is obvious. The second pitch roof is a good landmark.

I linked pitches 2 and 3 with a 70M rope and had plenty left over. My partner and I agreed this was the best climbing on the r... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Black Ice (5.13b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Great long pitch with fun powerful sequences that keep the pump going til the bitter end. Full 70M needed if belaying from the main ledge; tie a stopper knot!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Black Cat Bone (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: One of the more egregious examples of crack bolting I've seen. A shame, since the climbing is quite good. A few bolts to protect the move from the stance into the crack system and to protect the finish would suffice to keep the route from being R-rated.

There is no anchor at the top of the crack system as the guidebook indicates, nor is there one out to the right, so the route culminates with the steep 'n pumpy bolted finish of 12-gauge IQ.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : The Bog : Iron Helix (V6)
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: This problem is also great in the summer, as long as you don't mind pulling on with wet shoes.

An easier variation heads up and right from the same start as Iron Helix.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Another vote for the crux pitch as one of the best in Eldo. Thoughtful and powerful moves crescendo to an OK shake before the final crux sequence. A green and/or yellow Alien protects the opening moves before the first bolt. Working this route while hanging out on the terrace is part of the fun, sitting on top of the West Ridge and taking in the view. Awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Surf's Up (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid.

Anchor has been updated and is solid.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was an awesome finale pitch, fitting for such a high-quality route.


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