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Obi on Courier Flight.  Photo by Adam Kimmerly


Member Since: Feb 16, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 764
Total Points: 835
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 23
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Obi been climbing?










Contributions


All 658 | Routes 29 | Areas 15 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts | Stars 294 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Obi When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Nate B. - with respect to the fallen climber, this climb can be well protected and an injury causing fall is unlikely.

Solid jams and good rest stances pepper the route. Wish it were longer.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: Obi When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: The walk off was very doable, though perhaps a bit exposed for novice climbers. The fixed rope is manky - held in place by a knot in a crack above the chimney / gulley and is part way worn through. This being said, I downclimbed the short chimney just fine.

Fantastic climb and a must-do for any trad leader of this grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Entering Relativity (5.11a)
By: Obi When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Moves up to the 3rd bolt are probably the hardest technically, then it's a long satisfying jug haul to the anchors. Though not hard to clip, nor far from the deck, stick clipping the 3rd bolt wouldn't be a bad idea. I second the comments that the jugs felt a little on the chossy side.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Easy Reader (5.6)
By: Obi When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I did an incorrect start, but the first few moves seemed burly, even though the hands were on jugs.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (8) Old School Wall : Stigmata (5.8)
By: Obi When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Loose and dirty. A couple of 5th class moves at the start and end of the route with what is effectively 4th class movement in between makes this barely a single start for me (I'm feeling lenient tonight).


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (8) Old School Wall : Ripper (5.9)
By: Obi When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: The 5 foot pillar at the start of the climb, the top of which serves as a convenient starting hand and eventual foothold, is very loose. Be very mindful if you're using it. Alternate starts are possible, and I'm fairly certain they don't add a whole lot to the grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Obi When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Just a few extra bits of beta-

Some of the larger holds right at the start of P3 are a bit loose and hollow. Easily avoided and some of my partners never even realized this, but still something to mentally note.

The start of P2 is a step across a gap per the route description, but it might be a mentally committing move to do for a new leader despite it being quite easy.

This all being said, the starting moves of P2 were fun and P3 was by far my favorite of the entire route. A great overa... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Koala Rock : Suck my Kiss (5.9)
By: Obi When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Fun route with a variety of movement for a 5.9, mostly focusing on fun body tension until the third bolt. Excellent exposure. Eases off quite a bit after the 3rd bolt, but the moves are none the less interesting.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Earth Boys (5.10b)
By: Obi When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: Was fun and fairly well sustained with the occasional rest stop peppered in. Knowing the sequence helps quite a bit - try to move straight up when possible instead of following the line of chalked holds to the right at the first crux.

Two potential anchors exist for this route - the one that is shared with Ring of Fire (route to the right) or the one that is a couple of dozen feet above this anchor which can be reached after transitioning onto the slab by moving up and left onto / over the ar... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Dancer (5.7)
By: Obi When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: The first bolt, as well as the moves for the first 8 feet, appears to be shared with Jete (route to climber's left of Dancer)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Maggie's Farm (5.7)
By: Obi When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: The crux section of the route felt extremely short - almost like a boulder problem being done after a quick easy approach.

I climbed this route on March 1st, and I don't recall doing any 12' stemming downclimbing to descend off the route (but my memory has been known to fail me with details like this). From the top of this climb, the descent route is just to climber's right (if at all) and will take you down a short corridor onto the other side of this wall.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : I Killed a Man A Man Who Lo... (V1)
By: Obi When: Dec 31, 2008

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Comments: Some of the holds felt hollow / loose - a bit creepy when nearing the topout.

Otherwise, a great warmup on large jugs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Minotaur Wall : Minotaur (5.7)
By: Obi When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: Seems like there is some confusion between Vogel's full Jtree guide and his Jtree West guide re: which line is the minotaur. After talking to a couple of people, I feel like I have to agree with Ryan Kelly that the route is on the detached wall a little bit in front of Atlantis Wall proper.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Birthday Left (V1)
By: Obi When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: The holds on this problem are extremely polished. As a result, it makes any attempts at technical footwork that much more interesting.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : New Toy (5.6)
By: Obi When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: So unmemorable that I am at a loss of words to describe it. Might be a little awkward for the fledgling 5.6 leader - move onto something else before trying this as a start to your climbing career.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Jedi Master (5.11a)
By: Obi When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: An alternative is to approach the crack by traversing from the right, by the base of Hans Solo. A few unprotected slab moves gains entry into the crack.

Although the moves aren't necessarily super hard, the blind tricky gear placements adds a lot of "spice" to this climb (if approached from the right, but probably true for the direct start).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Hans Solo (5.9)
By: Obi When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Felt short, even for Jtree standards. The rock quality appears questionable from a distance, but is good upon closer inspection.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Gargoyle (5.6)
By: Obi When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Although not hard, the last 10' or so of the climb was an offwidth section for me and my partners. This section loses the aesthetic movement that the initial handcrack provides (unless you like offwidths - in which case, hats off to you).

The downclimb seemed roughly as hard as the climb itself, but it's only a fraction of the length.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Music Box (5.8)
By: Obi When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Lots and lots of BD #3's helps with this climb


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Medicine Man (5.7)
By: Obi When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.

The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : Boulder Basin Campground : Campsite 16 - 19 : Mantle Piece (V0+)
By: Obi When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: This part of the boulder can be seen from the campsites downhill. Look for a lone boulder with a 45 overhang at the crest of a hill, away from the campground loop.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Wet Pigeon (5.8)
By: Obi When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: If this boulder for anchoring is the one I think it is (about a large piano size), you can actually rock (no pun intended) it out of place. I agree with the previous comment - it appears solid, but it does indeed move.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Lizzie Boulder : Not So Thin Lizzie (V4)
By: Obi When: Feb 14, 2007

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Comments: Have holds broken off since the original FA? Seemed easier than most V4's, especially in J-tree. Faint outlines of where holds could have flaked off are noticeable for the first couple of moves.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Split Personality (5.9)
By: Obi When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: Felt the crux were the last few moves onto the slabs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Lewd and Lascivious Conduct (5.10c R)
By: Obi When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: Done on TR, the moves are actually quite fun on thin holds and balancy footwork. Fairly consistent movement all the way to the top, there's a slight pump felt by the end of the route.


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