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Member Since: Apr 9, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact notmyname


Point Rank: # 3,669
Total Points: 125
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has notmyname been climbing?










Contributions


All 431 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 323 | Stars 24 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Silmaril (5.12a)
By: notmyname When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: great climb, full value, every pitch a full body workout. 2 number 4 & 5 camalots and a #6 made me feel happy. The descent was more confusing that it appears from the road, but with some tat to back things up, it wasn't too awful. I couldn't imagine doing it in the dark. Did the free variation. The C2 crack is sweet looking and long. On the free var. on pitch two, look out for a huge death block a few feet up from the belay at p1. A trundle would be helpful, but be damn sure no one is bel... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : The Vigil (5.11 R)
By: notmyname When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: any advice for getting down without doing the last pitch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges
By: notmyname When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: The rockslides that occurred throughout the Wasatch in 2013 took out the picnic area so there aren't any benches and the trail is being reconstructed - it was simple to orient to the climbs without the tables.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
By: notmyname When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Unless I got hit by a severe storm, I can't imagine a single reason not to walk off. After climbing any one of the routes the first thing throug my mind is there's now way I'm pulling a rope through that. It's one of the easiest walk-off I've ever done and spits you right back to your packs below the routes, or if just doing one, straight down to the car. How would you know somone isn't on Black Streak if rapping? I'd be pissed if I was climbing black streak and someone was rapping above me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Portable Darkness (5.9+ PG13)
By: notmyname When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: I fully respect the work that went into this climb, however unlike the previous posters, I thought it was the worst multipitch I've ever done. As for beta - no cams necessary - well bolted and certainly not PG-13 or R rated.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Horns Of Satan (5.10+)
By: notmyname When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Great climb - only need a few cams for the roof on the 2nd to last pitch (#2 and below). As clean as I expect from the Castle, and really fun pitches. Better than black streak me thinks. Easily done in 5 with a 60m, walking off is a breeze. Can't say it's 10+ though, 10b max. I don't understand the last posters comments - we did portable darkness afer this and it's probaly the worst multipitch route I've ever done.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Total X (5.10a/b)
By: notmyname When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: No longer a 2 bolt anchor and the one remaining is a POS loose with stacked washers. I don't have a drill, but if you do this excellent route needs new anchors desperately. John Doe has pretty crappy chain on it as well and could use an upgrade too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Scallywaggers (5.9)
By: notmyname When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: what's SPF 50 all about (legnth, rating, gear etc)?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Conflict (5.10c/d)
By: notmyname When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: bring a wrench and hammer - the bolts are oriented poorly (holes face down) and could result in breaking a biner or backclipping. besides that, stellar route


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: notmyname When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: Supertopo shows the last pitch going right at A3 and left as 5.10

I'm pretty sure this is bass-ackwards. I saw the bolts on the right and was thinking why would an A3 pitch have more bolts and better rock...anyway I went left. I've been climbing for about 20 years and have done a lot of choss. But going left was the worst pitch I've ever led...hands down no question. I freeded it if that counts for anything! It was like trying to climb rock being actively poured out of a dump truck in a gypsum ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: notmyname When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: only one hook (any normal type of hook) necessary and pitch 4 is not 90 feet per the supertopo, it's exactly 40 meters.

Gets sun around 10:30 in late jan/early feb


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: notmyname When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: don't underestimate this traverse because of some of the speed records (6hrs, 8hrs, even 16 hours) posted, and don't underestimate the difficulty or overestimate your ability. Unless you peg it exactly (ha!), expect some of the 4th class soloing to become mid 5th with extreme consequence, some of the mid 5th to become difficult 5th, and some of the 5.8 to feel much much harder than the 5.8 you may be used to. Imagining being tired while planning is one thing, being totally wiped with miles to go... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: notmyname When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: soloing this takes 3-5 hours car 2 car, and the downclimb around the rappels is easy, but very exposed. if I wasn't up for soloing, I'd bring a 50' section of cord for a belay around the raps...really no need for any rappelling. a very small amount of mountain sense will get you to the correct downclimb/traverse locations.

look out for rattle snakes, almost stepped on a big one scrambling off the top to the trail, and look out for dogs - got chased by an angry dog off the leash who didn't like ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Lost Temple Spire : Southwest arete (5.10a)
By: notmyname When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: s.a.n.d.b.a.g.g.e.d. @ 5.10a/b!!!

last few pitches:
10a corner - felt like 10c. save #3 for the belay on the arete
10b face - holy crap. felt like 5.11b and spicy
5.9 traverse - getting to the traverse is an eye opener, traverse WAAAY around right. I imagined a ledge, or something inside the 5.7 chimney. No, the hand traverse sticks you straight inside the steep, smooth, and wide/offwidthy chimney. We bailed here. I didn't have a #4 or #5 cam to set up a hanging belay, and had... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: notmyname When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: no sure what the fuss over the 1st pitch is, maybe people are starting too low?

Follow ramps doing a little move over a bulge to get to the left side of a horizontal white streak, seen from the meadows. Traverse right 15 feet into a short corner, place gear, and move right some more placing a nut and or small cam. It is easy 5.7 up and left into the corner. no sketch. If you are indeed going this way and bail, the rest of the route isn't for you (no offense).

The start of the corner is game on... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Solitary Confinement (5.11)
By: notmyname When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: what are the ratings by pitch?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: notmyname When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Be careful on the pitch that guy broke his back on, I had a peg hold break while clipping and decked myself. Got a disgusting puncture wound on my shin but was able to climb out ok (actually it was just an elaborate plan to get my partner to lead the cruxes above!). That same pitch is also a bitch to rap to the anchors.

The copperhead is gone from first 11- pitch, btw.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: notmyname When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: Thanks so much for what I can only imagine to be an extreme amount of work and sweat putting this route up! The first adjective I would use on this climb would be, "outstanding". After the emphasis on that word, the other descriptions I would use are: committing, engaging (aka better not be distracted), exciting, traversy, frightening, exposed, long, hot, exhausting, and awesome. As stated most cruxes are protected,; however, it is not a route you can pull-through or hang on. You had b... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple : Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: notmyname When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the 70m rope beta!
Also, with a 70m rope, you can link any pitches you choose. I easily linked 2+3 and 4+5, but I backcleaned everything out of the chimney on pitch 2 and placed nothing on p3 except for a sling on the anchor.

The #4.5 (or new #5) is fairly useless, but I enjoyed the #4.
There were a couple places a 0 Mastercam (blue Alien) would have been really nice (like on the 5th pitch just after the drilled angle).

I only saw one drilled angle and no second b... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: notmyname When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the unique experience! Definitely some bold pitches!
As of today, the road is easy 2wd under the highway, but the anchors need new webbing. I'd have brought some if I knew they were all equalized webbing.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: notmyname When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: This route is really fun and low commitment. Every real pitch is awesome, albeit short. The 5.11a pitches felt incredibly soft for the grade, and the cruxes are very, very short. Grade II 10b and ten feet of C1. The 5.6 moves off the 1st belay are the crux. 5 #2 Camalots is an insane amount. You can easily get by with two. The #4 is nice on the 6th pitch, but doing the crack to the list makes it unnecessary. The aid placements are bomber, and even if freeing, you only need one 0 Meto... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
By: notmyname When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info!
As for the leaning crack, I still had fun.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
By: notmyname When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Darren, or someone that's done it.
What grade does your 2 pitch o.w./chimney climb go at and what gear would you recommend? It looks totally amazing, but it's really hard to judge the size and grade from below on that one.

I wasn't a big fan of that leaning ramp/handcrack. For the stout grades at the p.creek I'd call it 5.8 with a 5.9 finish!

Thanks!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Rabid Muslim (5.11)
By: notmyname When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Amazing.
I'll throw in some useful gear / rope beta.
6 each green and red camalots, 2 gold, 2 blue (can save one blue for higher up in the business). Nothin else except maybe a purple .75 at the tippy top.

Instead of fixing a rope below the roof etc (too much screwing around), or jamming a tight #4 (you could get f'd), put a long sling up the initial corner, and back clean through the roof. You;ll be glad you did it that way since it saves you your rope getting pinned or having ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: notmyname When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Penises are aid

I'll toss in a $75 reward for the camera, even if it's busted.


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