Point Rank: # 3,326
Total Points: 106
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
| Areas are worth 15 |
| Routes are worth 10 |
| Photos are worth 5 |
| Comments are worth 1 |
Where has notmyname been climbing?
4 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.
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Contributions
| All (341) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (51) | Posts (256) | Stars (17) | Ratings (9) | | Page 1 of 14. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
The Cottonwood Traverse | 5.6 (3) | Trad, Alpine, 25000 feet, Grade IV | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo | | Sep 27, 2009 |
Glass Case of Emotion | WI3-4 M4-5 (1) | Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II | UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Storm Mountain Ice Falls | | Jan 17, 2009 |
Orange Corner | 5.10d (1) | Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III | ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome | | Sep 14, 2008 |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: notmyname When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> | Comments: Supertopo shows the last pitch going right at A3 and left as 5.10
I'm pretty sure this is bass-ackwards. I saw the bolts on the right and was thinking why would an A3 pitch have more bolts and better rock...anyway I went left. I've been climbing for about 20 years and have done a lot of choss. But going left was the worst pitch I've ever led...hands down no question. I freeded it if that counts for anything! It was like trying to climb rock being actively poured out of a dump truck in a gypsum ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: notmyname When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> | Comments: only one hook (any normal type of hook) necessary and pitch 4 is not 90 feet per the supertopo, it's exactly 40 meters.
Gets sun around 10:30 in late jan/early feb
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: notmyname When: Jul 21, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: don't underestimate this traverse because of some of the speed records (6hrs, 8hrs, even 16 hours) posted, and don't underestimate the difficulty or overestimate your ability. Unless you peg it exactly (ha!), expect some of the 4th class soloing to become mid 5th with extreme consequence, some of the mid 5th to become difficult 5th, and some of the 5.8 to feel much much harder than the 5.8 you may be used to. Imagining being tired while planning is one thing, being totally wiped with miles to go... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: notmyname When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: soloing this takes 3-5 hours car 2 car, and the downclimb around the rappels is easy, but very exposed. if I wasn't up for soloing, I'd bring a 50' section of cord for a belay around the raps...really no need for any rappelling. a very small amount of mountain sense will get you to the correct downclimb/traverse locations.
look out for rattle snakes, almost stepped on a big one scrambling off the top to the trail, and look out for dogs - got chased by an angry dog off the leash who didn't like ... more >>
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Lost Temple Spire : Southwest arete (5.10a)
By: notmyname When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: s.a.n.d.b.a.g.g.e.d. @ 5.10a/b!!!
last few pitches:
10a corner - felt like 10c. save #3 for the belay on the arete
10b face - holy crap. felt like 5.11b and spicy
5.9 traverse - getting to the traverse is an eye opener, traverse WAAAY around right. I imagined a ledge, or something inside the 5.7 chimney. No, the hand traverse sticks you straight inside the steep, smooth, and wide/offwidthy chimney. We bailed here. I didn't have a #4 or #5 cam to set up a hanging belay, and had... more >>
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: notmyname When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: no sure what the fuss over the 1st pitch is, maybe people are starting too low?
Follow ramps doing a little move over a bulge to get to the left side of a horizontal white streak, seen from the meadows. Traverse right 15 feet into a short corner, place gear, and move right some more placing a nut and or small cam. It is easy 5.7 up and left into the corner. no sketch. If you are indeed going this way and bail, the rest of the route isn't for you (no offense).
The start of the corner is game on... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Solitary Confinement (5.11)
By: notmyname When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: what are the ratings by pitch?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: notmyname When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Be careful on the pitch that guy broke his back on, I had a peg hold break while clipping and decked myself. Got a disgusting puncture wound on my shin but was able to climb out ok (actually it was just an elaborate plan to get my partner to lead the cruxes above!). That same pitch is also a bitch to rap to the anchors.
The copperhead is gone from first 11- pitch, btw.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: notmyname When: May 11, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks so much for what I can only imagine to be an extreme amount of work and sweat putting this route up! The first adjective I would use on this climb would be, "outstanding". After the emphasis on that word, the other descriptions I would use are: committing, engaging (aka better not be distracted), exciting, traversy, frightening, exposed, long, hot, exhausting, and awesome. As stated most cruxes are protected,; however, it is not a route you can pull-through or hang on. You had b... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple : Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: notmyname When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks for the 70m rope beta!
Also, with a 70m rope, you can link any pitches you choose. I easily linked 2+3 and 4+5, but I backcleaned everything out of the chimney on pitch 2 and placed nothing on p3 except for a sling on the anchor.
The #4.5 (or new #5) is fairly useless, but I enjoyed the #4.
There were a couple places a 0 Mastercam (blue Alien) would have been really nice (like on the 5th pitch just after the drilled angle).
I only saw one drilled angle and no second b... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: notmyname When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks for the unique experience! Definitely some bold pitches!
As of today, the road is easy 2wd under the highway, but the anchors need new webbing. I'd have brought some if I knew they were all equalized webbing.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: notmyname When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: This route is really fun and low commitment. Every real pitch is awesome, albeit short. The 5.11a pitches felt incredibly soft for the grade, and the cruxes are very, very short. Grade II 10b and ten feet of C1. The 5.6 moves off the 1st belay are the crux. 5 #2 Camalots is an insane amount. You can easily get by with two. The #4 is nice on the 6th pitch, but doing the crack to the list makes it unnecessary. The aid placements are bomber, and even if freeing, you only need one 0 Meto... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
By: notmyname When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks for the info!
As for the leaning crack, I still had fun.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
By: notmyname When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Darren, or someone that's done it.
What grade does your 2 pitch o.w./chimney climb go at and what gear would you recommend? It looks totally amazing, but it's really hard to judge the size and grade from below on that one.
I wasn't a big fan of that leaning ramp/handcrack. For the stout grades at the p.creek I'd call it 5.8 with a 5.9 finish!
Thanks!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Rabid Muslim (5.11)
By: notmyname When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Amazing.
I'll throw in some useful gear / rope beta.
6 each green and red camalots, 2 gold, 2 blue (can save one blue for higher up in the business). Nothin else except maybe a purple .75 at the tippy top.
Instead of fixing a rope below the roof etc (too much screwing around), or jamming a tight #4 (you could get f'd), put a long sling up the initial corner, and back clean through the roof. You;ll be glad you did it that way since it saves you your rope getting pinned or having ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: notmyname When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Penises are aid
I'll toss in a $75 reward for the camera, even if it's busted.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: notmyname When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: My camera unclipped from my harness on top of the 5.9+ pitch this saturday. I'd love it back if you find it!
Also, I was wondering about the flip-flobability on this route. so if you were too, flip flops work just fine for the approach and descent.
That first female ascent question is too funny. soooo many thing wrong with that, i don't even know where to begin with the mockery.
fun route, thanks for the hard work and expenses.
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