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Member Since: Apr 23, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Not So Famous Old Dude

 
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All 615 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 18 | Posts 566 | Stars 18 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: Please consider not using chalk on the boulders that are near the trail or lakes. Other wilderness users may find the chalk marks distasteful, which can lead to complaints and regulations on climbers. Despite getting a good amount of traffic, the Chicago Lakes area still has a sense of pristine, alpine beauty. And yes, I'm a climber and boulderer, but I don't like to see these boulders chalked. Most climbers wouldn't want to see a hiker spray paint his name on a boulder, so perhaps boulderers... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Natural Selection (5.11a/b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: Someone has installed a lower anchor on this route right after the steep wall above the crux, which is about where the most interesting climbing ends, anyway, so you can now do this with one rope without any problems at all.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Free Up The Weed (5.11a)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: The new version replaces the hard one move crux with 30 feet of sustained and thoughtful climbing in the shallow dihedral to the left of the original arete. This is a big improvement to the line. However, I view this more as a quality variation to the line - why not just leave the old bolts and anchor for the sake of variety?

The new version adds a star to this line I think.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Reversing that Tyrolean to come back to the car SUCKED with the force of a thousand black holes!!!!! I may go downstream next time and walk back up. If there even is a next time.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Groan Up (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: One of those climbs where you think you are home free after a few spots of darned hard climbing (especially onsight), then BAM! You can't clip the anchors without some improbable and desperate move. There is nothing more cruel than having the a final crux right before you clip the anchor. Haha.... Oh well, whaddya gonna do?


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Industrial Disease aka Dead... (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Impressive climb, especially for this area. I really enjoyed all the moves. The crux for me was the moves between the second and third bolt. The overhang is strenuous, but straight-forward. This one is definitely now in the top 5 climbs in this area for me.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : What Would Jesus Bolt (5.11)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: I did this by staying in the middle of the arete until the feet disappeared, then I moved left into the crack just as PPBB is veering off to the left. Jammed a few moves there then did a difficult move or two diagonally, then straight up from there to the anchors. If that was the intent of the line, then it's an okay route and actually has some very nice finger and thin hands moves combined with some devious face moves at crux. The way I did it, doesn't overlap PPBB.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Crawling Up Roseanne's Bell... (5.11b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: Sustained is the key word. There aren't really any super hard moves taken individually, but linking all the relentlessly thin and or rounded holds gets a major burn going.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: Straight up the bolts, through the crimpy face feels like full value 5.11c. There are no true recovery-style rests on the thing, just less pumpage after you get under the roof on the bigger holds. The roof is comparatively easy if you ask me - you are just drained by the time you get there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Italian Arete (5.9 R)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 24, 2008

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Comments: As of June 21, 2008, the bird crap is no big deal and is totally avoidable.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Neo-Quasi Bugaloo (5.10a)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: "I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a."

If you go straight up/right of the bolt line, it's definitely solid 11, I'd say. Ultra thin, committing slab work involved, and it's more than just one move.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride... (5.9+)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: I've done this twice now, and I'm going to have to depart from the conventional wisdom. I believe a "+" was originally meant to mean sustained. There is no sustained climbing on this route and the crux is much harder than a 5.9 move. It's a strenuous, highly technical stem move above the bolt immediately above the roof (at least the way I did it - twice) that felt more like 10b I'd say.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Tierra Del Fuego (5.11b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: After doing this a couple of times, I feel this is a fine, technically sustained route. I did do the 12a/b finish and found it very thin and thoughtful. I found the body positions I needed to use seemed really improbable, but then I found myself somehow sticking up there when I fully committed. It's not a pure strength crux, because it comes down to focus, determination, and technique, not just raw power. You have to stay very "quiet" on the holds to get them to work for you.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Natural Selection (5.11a/b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: I'll weigh in on the loving it side. A good long pitch of high quality climbing. It's interesting how it changes from slab to steep juggy climbing all in one pitch. The crux is definitely delicate - a truly committing steep slab move. I agree on the run out to the crux - kinda spooky. It's really the only thing on the route I don't like.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: May 23, 2008

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Comments: This is a good climb, and I agree that it seems to be rated more appropriately than some others. It felt right on as an on-sight. I spent a lot of energy trying different ways to get established on the roof. Now that I know what to do, it may seem much easier, but I doubt it. The crux seemed above the roof - getting established in that crack - those felt quite hard to me. Oh, and unless you really want to do 40 more feet of 5.8, then just bail from the intermediate anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Porn Queen (5.11d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Hey, this pitch isn't too bad at all. In fact, it was fun. Very juggy and exposed climbing. It's the way I intend to do Reefer Madness from now on. I'm not going to quibble about ratings, but if you can climb Reefer Madness smoothly, then there is nothing on Porn Queen that should stop you from giving it a go. The bird crap isn't on the actual holds, at least when I did it and you get past that part after two or three moves.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Great Expectations (5.10d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: Only way to make it 10c is to stay out of the corner. In one place, about where shown in the picture I think you will have to use the corner to avoid making it harder than rated. But if you use it too much, the route will seem soft. Go straight up to the anchors from the last bolt and you will be crimping and not downrating the climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Relampago (5.10c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: If you go straight up the face on crimps, it will feel like 10c.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
re: Proud to be an American again.Community ForumNot So Famous Old DudeSep 3, 2008
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