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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
Contact nolteboy


Point Rank: # 2,880
Total Points: 176
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nolteboy been climbing?










Contributions


All 208 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 1 | Stars 97 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Saigon to Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: Pitch 2 is probably the best single pitch on Combat. Take a yellow TCU or Alien...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Grunt Lieback (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: No grunting involved. Solid jams with great feet up to where the crack gets wide. Layback from there.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: This and grunt layback alone are worth the walk.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 20, 2005

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Comments: This great route doesn't require any pure offwidth technique. Smallish gear can be placed in a straight-in thin crack that ends where the route kicks right- at that point you'll definitely want one or two large (#4 Camalot size) pieces for the wide crack. Hand sizes for the belay.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 20, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Once you're through the crux, the technical difficulty drops big time - if you've got the gas to stay with it after that, you've got it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: A must-do if you're in this area. Soft for the grade. If you're looking to on-sight .11b at the 'Voo, this is probably the one.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: I agree 100% - I have been saying for years that the grades on Lichen Lung and Mud in Your Eye are bass-ackwards!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Skull (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Don't be intimidated by the steep crux on p.1 - the jams are bomber. This climb is best done in one pitch.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Becker (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Amen to that - definitely hard for the grade.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: A great route for summertime, this is sort of a lost classic. Be ready for some fisticuffs.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Little John's Tower : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Recommended. The splitter crack at the top is deeeeelishus. Extra long runners at the flake (right before you travese left to the splitter crack) will help keep your rope drag manageable.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic - if only pitch two were twice as long! Pitch one is a soft man's version of Captian Nemo's 2nd pitch.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Lieback (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005

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Comments: This great route takes bomber pro and is one of the best climbs of its grade at the 'Voo.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005

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Comments: The good advice in the previous two comments notwithstanding, I would not recommend this as a lead for someone who is not solid at the grade. NOT a good "first 5.9 lead".


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005

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Comments: A green Alien can be finagled in just before the crux moves. Very aesthetic, very foot-work oriented.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005

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Comments: I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: nolteboy When: Apr 14, 2005

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Comments: I hiked up and looked at the ELECTRIC OCEAN area. While there are indeed some climbs established there, I think that it is a gross overstatement to say that they represent "some of the best sport climbing on the front range."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Nolteboy - The belly-crawl left on p.1 is definitely scarier than the subsequent traverse back right...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Nolteboy - p.4 is one of the best 5.7s in Eldo.


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