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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
Contact nolteboy


Point Rank: # 2,886
Total Points: 176
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nolteboy been climbing?










Contributions


All 208 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 1 | Stars 97 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Piton Perch (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: This place turns into an Urban Assault Area on weekends, thanks to it's inclusion in a popular Front Range Topropes book. Go mid-week if you can.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : Nemesis Northeast Face (5.11a/b)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: If we are talking about the same route, it's definitely not a 5.12... NE Face climbs up to small right-facing corner, then right at the roof, then to the top. Nuts for TR anchor.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : East of Eden (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Quite an anomaly for the Poudre - this canyon would be a destination area if it were full of quality lines like this one.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Direct Second Buttress (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: I remember the crux on the 2nd pitch feeling more like .10a than 5.9


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Contrived runout getting to the first bolt, but otherwise an enjoyable pitch of good-quality face climbing. Seemed a little soft for 11a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Recommended. Green or yellow alien before the traverse left on pitch one. Don't remember much gear on pitch two apart from the bolts.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: The position and exposure on this route are indeed aesthetic, but the shattered nature of the rock means lots of loose stuff.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: After pitch 1 is dispensed with, pitches 2 and 3 offer perfect rock, awesome exposure, and splitter cracks. Highly recommended.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Silver Surfer (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 16, 2005

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Comments: Short, but worthwhile. The easiest route on this section of Holdout.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Monkey Wrench (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 16, 2005

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Comments: A very good pitch. Slammer hands up to the ledge below the flare, at which point a yellow tcu can be placed high and left. After stepping off the ledge and placing a good #4 (or maybe 4.5?) camalot, a couple of 5.10 moves gets you thru the flare and back into hand and fist sizes...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: I, too, felt that the thin-hands pitch was the true crux. I recall Mr. Bubb's statement (in some other route review) that he has smallish hands, hence a possible explanation as to how the pitch felt to him. If your hands are "standard issue male hands" (like mine are), it will feel harder. Then of course there's the subject of how good at thin hand cracks one is....GAAAHHHH!!! Sorry to bring up a topic that could be discussed ad infinitum, but I thought some clarification/obfuscation might b... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: But I guess that would have been awfully expensive....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: A spectacular route on one of the most majestic alpine faces in the Park. Indeed it is a "bolted" route but not a "sport" route. There is always good pro fairly close by at the hard parts, but on easier ground (up to 5.9) be prepared to take it out 'quite' a ways.... Kudos to the authors of this route for not putting in a fatty every 6 feet.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Soft Touch (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 10, 2005

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Comments: This is a very good route, especially for the grade....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lawyer on the Toilet (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 7, 2005

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Comments: The crack at the top is nice and steep, but the rock is a little friable up there...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Hideaway Chimney (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Protects very well, appearances notwithstanding. Once you get up inside the chimney itself, there are several crack systems to choose from. A little bit of everything for pro. At the top, go right and rap off the anchors for the route FLAKE.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Bill Steal (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 3, 2005

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Comments: On a cool morning, this is a great route to soak up the sun and get limbered up on.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Hung Like a Horse (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 3, 2005

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Comments: IMO, this is the highest quality of the 3 cracks in this alcove (the others of course being C & P and PD). At the crux I too stayed in the good hands way back in there...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 3, 2005

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Comments: Classic. It's easy to look at this and say, "ah, #2's!", but don't forget a couple #3 Camalot-sized pieces for the upper half of the pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 2, 2005

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Comments: One of THE finest routes at Eldo for its grade.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 1, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Pictures don't do justice as to how steep this route is. Your own eyes don't even tell you the truth. It's only after you've lowered off the anchors, and are somehow standing on the ground at a point 15 feet or so out from where you started, that you look up and go, "whooooaaaa!!!"


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Upper Blair Boulder Problem... : Behind Blue Eyes (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 1, 2005

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Comments: If you're at the Heap doing Spectreman, you should wander around 'til you've found this route. It's worth it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: A worthwhile variation involves heading straight up Pearl Harbor (or is it Eight Clicks?) from the first belay, then (after the third bolt) moving left into the crack. This allows one to avoid the excessive rope drag (or, if no pro is placed, the long runout!) of the "normal" 2nd pitch, while still enjoying the roof crack...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: MUCH better than it looks from the ground.


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