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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
Contact nolteboy


Point Rank: # 2,879
Total Points: 176
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nolteboy been climbing?










Contributions


All 208 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 1 | Stars 97 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Lifestream (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s I've done on the Front Range. Since the route traverses left for a significant distance over its entire length, it ends up being quite a bit longer than if it just went straight up.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Straight and Narrow (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Regarding the "red Alien/yellow Alien on p.4" discussion... I placed a gray Camalot (same size as yellow?), and it held when I fell off trying to hump my way up into the bombay. The Camalots are, of course, a bit wider axially than Aliens, and this may have helped (a bit more surface area on cam lobes). Then again, maybe it was just dumb luck. Obviously, best to put a 24'" runner on whatever one places here....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climbs of Passion Exit (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 12, 2005

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Comments: On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Granite cracks don't get much better than this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Cool reaches past blank spots in crack - great movement.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: The last 15 feet of this route warrant its getting 3 stars (amazing finger locks with great pro on perfect granite) - below that, the climbing is merely "very good"...

We did the 2 pitches described above as 1 pitch with no problems. A 60m line gets you to the big tree you started from.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Vanishing Point (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Don't waste time at the crux! I had more difficulty with this than with GREAT WHITE CRIME.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Piece of Dirt (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: The layback flake is pretty positive. Don't dawdle at the top of the flake!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: Apart from the 4th class-ish sections on p.3, the climbing is continuously good. The big roof on p.3 is wild and intimidating for the grade (or for ANY grade). From the belay ledge immediately up and right of the Guillotine roof, a 60m takes you close enough to the top to 3rd class the rest...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Bat Crack (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: With judicious use of long runners and a 60m line, one can, from the ground, climb thru the roof to belay at a relatively comfortable stance about 35 feet above the roof (small gear).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: Idiot Wind and The Nose are each awesome routes, and I would encourage anyone to do both, without trying to somehow get the best of each one by doing some sort of combination. Obviously they do share a pitch, one that is so good you won't mind doing it twice.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : War Zone (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 22, 2005

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Comments: A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Fallout (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 20, 2005

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Comments: In retrospect, I s'pose that my comment regarding the protectability of the direct start was a bit misleading. Since beginning the pitch in the chimney on the left offers no options for pro at all, it would be more accurate to say that the direct start actually protects MORE easily.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Screw (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 19, 2005

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Comments: Classic. Probably the most travelled route on the NW face. The 5.6 finger and hand crack is surely one of the best of its grade at the 'Voo.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Super sweet. Do p.1 of Hammer, and then just keep motoring right into Tool Or Die. Two decent stoppers can be placed before moving off the flake (i.e. right before committing to the crux "inverted V-slot"), and from there to the top, it's nothing but slamma jamma.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hairlip (5.9+)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Worthwhile. Instead of rapping from the slings at the top of the crack, better to do the horizontal traverse right to a great gear belay.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Obviously Four Believers (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 11, 2005

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Comments: Jeff G and I replaced the hanger on the crux pitch's first bolt on 7/10/05. I found the crux move to be difficult for 11a, and subsequently "tested" (i.e. fell on) the bolt several times before pulling thru. Bolt seems to be in good shape.

All in all, a wandering route that has good climbing and travels thru some cool terrain.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress
By: nolteboy When: Jul 5, 2005

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Comments: The rock here is surprisingly good.

We approached via the Deer Mtn Junction trailhead. Took a left at the 2nd right-hand switchback and traversed around to the north side of Deer Mtn. Only the last couple hundred yards before the talus field was anything close to being a bushwhack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress : Nun Buttress (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 3, 2005

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Comments: If the first pitch of this route were on the Book, you'd have to wait in line to do it. It's that good. After that, the angle drops off and... well, you know how that goes. Basically, you're walking up here to do the first pitch!

If you're doing no route other than this one, and if you've parked at the Deer Mtn Junction Trailhead, a great way to get down is to climb the route with your packs, and then once on top, strike out to the south across the top of Deer Mountain - easy walking. After... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress
By: nolteboy When: Jul 3, 2005

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Comments: The quality of the rock here is surprisingly good - very "Lumpy-like".

We approached via the trailhead at Deer Mtn Junction. It wasn't bad at all. After taking the trail all the way up to the 2nd right-hand switchback, strike off thru the woods (to the north) at a level grade - neither gain nor give up altitude. After traversing around to the north side of Deer Mountain (thru mostly open forest - easy walking), encounter a few hundred yards of blow-downs and bushwhacking as the prow of the r... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Baalbek (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 24, 2005

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Comments: Well worth doing despite appearances to the contrary.


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