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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,787
Total Points: 176
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 208 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 96 | Posts 1 | Stars 97 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Lowe Route (A2)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: More than any other that I have done, this route gives you a taste of the full spectrum of Zion climbing. A true classic!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Days of No Future (5.9- V5 WI3- A4-)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: I will attempt to add some information - although my experience on this route is somewhat dated (from a solo ascent in the late 1990's), I would call it more like A3+. Since it doesn't get much traffic, I doubt if the difficulty has changed that much. The 3rd pitch is probly the crux, although the first and second pitches have some nervy spots as well. I recall a fair amount of thinnish nailing, but not long strings of scary stuff. I enjoyed it and thought it was a good route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Tony B's comments on the last pitch brought back some spooky memories for me - my experience was very similar. I remember that little creosote bush - its base is/was about as thick as your pinkie. This was about 1996...


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Shark's Nose : Direct Southwest Face (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: For many years, a casual flip through my Wind River guidebook would always end up in my spending several minutes leering at the description and photo of this route. Now that I've finally gotten in there and climbed it, I don't think I'd bestow it with the hallowed 'classic' status that the venerable Mr. Kelsey does/did. However, that might have something to do with the fact that we started waaaaay off-route (too far to the right, in the 'hideous chute') and basically missed the first 4 pitches... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Zipper (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: The squeeze chimney on p2 is pretty tight- I almost got stuck (32" waist). Do have a couple larger pieces for the second pitch.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: nolteboy When: Sep 10, 2006

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Comments: Beavs, you better get up there and do it to it, boy, before some other eager beaver beats you to the punch!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: My comments are for p.1 only- haven't tried the 2nd pitch (McCarthy West Face route)...

A little different from most Tower pitches that I've climbed, this one features a stress-type fracture that runs up and down one particular column (as opposed to the typical crack here that actually separates the columns). Interesting and sustained climbing, but with a couple of good rests. A #1 and a couple of #0.75 camalots for the thin hand crack below the roof, with doubles of smaller cams ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.

As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.

Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: A great chimney, and a good route to do in warmer weather. When it's hot out there, it's nice and cool in here.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: Pitch one is straight-in splitter goodness for fingees. Pitch two is slamma jamma time for hands. mmmmm mmmmm good!!!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: A very fine route. Don't hang out at the roof- just place gear and go for it. Trust me - pulling the roof isn't nearly as bad as hanging out underneath wasting energy! I was trying to be mr. trad and didn't clip the bolt at the roof, but my second got super frustrated on acount of the rope getting sucked into the roof crack, thereby foiling his efforts to pull thru... so it might not be a bad idea for the leader to clip that bolt with a short draw just to help out the second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: Pre-dawn enthusiasm and a failure to ask ourselves, "are we really where we think we are?" combined a few years ago to bless my buddy Jeff and I with a trip up this "route". The description given above is an accurate one- stick with the North Chimney.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Planet Waves (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: Not a uniform splitter, but continuously changing in size and shape.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 3, 2006

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Comments: This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 2, 2006

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Comments: This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Across Enemy Lines (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: I only climbed the first 2 pitches. Pitch 2 (especially the upper half of it) is fantastic, well protected face climbing on absolutely bullet rock. The 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom of the first pitch seem a little contrived - even though less aesthetic and much easier, the flakes on the left look like the natural start to me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Awesome, especially p2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: A 3.5 Camalot is indeed nice to have for the crux on the 2nd pitch. A wonderful route that protects well.


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