Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic. It's easy to look at this and say, "ah, #2's!", but don't forget a couple #3 Camalot-sized pieces for the upper half of the pitch.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of THE finest routes at Eldo for its grade.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Pictures don't do justice as to how steep this route is. Your own eyes don't even tell you the truth. It's only after you've lowered off the anchors, and are somehow standing on the ground at a point 15 feet or so out from where you started, that you look up and go, "whooooaaaa!!!"
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Upper Blair Boulder Problem... : Behind Blue Eyes (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're at the Heap doing Spectreman, you should wander around 'til you've found this route. It's worth it.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A worthwhile variation involves heading straight up Pearl Harbor (or is it Eight Clicks?) from the first belay, then (after the third bolt) moving left into the crack. This allows one to avoid the excessive rope drag (or, if no pro is placed, the long runout!) of the "normal" 2nd pitch, while still enjoying the roof crack...
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: MUCH better than it looks from the ground.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Saigon to Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 is probably the best single pitch on Combat. Take a yellow TCU or Alien...
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Grunt Lieback (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: No grunting involved. Solid jams with great feet up to where the crack gets wide. Layback from there.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: May 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and grunt layback alone are worth the walk.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This great route doesn't require any pure offwidth technique. Smallish gear can be placed in a straight-in thin crack that ends where the route kicks right- at that point you'll definitely want one or two large (#4 Camalot size) pieces for the wide crack. Hand sizes for the belay.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Once you're through the crux, the technical difficulty drops big time - if you've got the gas to stay with it after that, you've got it.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A must-do if you're in this area. Soft for the grade. If you're looking to on-sight .11b at the 'Voo, this is probably the one.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree 100% - I have been saying for years that the grades on Lichen Lung and Mud in Your Eye are bass-ackwards!
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Skull (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be intimidated by the steep crux on p.1 - the jams are bomber. This climb is best done in one pitch.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Becker (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amen to that - definitely hard for the grade.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route for summertime, this is sort of a lost classic. Be ready for some fisticuffs.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Little John's Tower : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recommended. The splitter crack at the top is deeeeelishus. Extra long runners at the flake (right before you travese left to the splitter crack) will help keep your rope drag manageable.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic - if only pitch two were twice as long! Pitch one is a soft man's version of Captian Nemo's 2nd pitch.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Lieback (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This great route takes bomber pro and is one of the best climbs of its grade at the 'Voo.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The good advice in the previous two comments notwithstanding, I would not recommend this as a lead for someone who is not solid at the grade. NOT a good "first 5.9 lead".
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A green Alien can be finagled in just before the crux moves. Very aesthetic, very foot-work oriented.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: nolteboy When: Apr 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hiked up and looked at the ELECTRIC OCEAN area. While there are indeed some climbs established there, I think that it is a gross overstatement to say that they represent "some of the best sport climbing on the front range."
|
RSS Feed
