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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Dec 23, 2013
Contact nolteboy


Point Rank: # 2,675
Total Points: 174
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (203) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (94) | Posts (1) | Stars (94) | Ratings (5)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

California Dreaming

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c (5)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

WY : Devil's Tower : West Face

Sep 10, 2006

Jerry's Kids

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b (11)

Trad, 1 pitch, 120'

WY : Devil's Tower : West Face

Sep 5, 2006

Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13 (5)

Trad, 1 pitch, 65'

WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout

Jul 16, 2006

Blade Runner

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 70'

WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon

Sep 17, 2005

Walking up to Zion

5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b (10)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'

WY : Vedauwoo : Foreign Territory

Jun 6, 2005

Sorority Girl

5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday

Jun 6, 2005

Fallout

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (27)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle

Jan 1, 2005

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Mike fishing at Shadow Lake in evening light.  This is at the NW end of the lake.

Mike fishing at Shadow Lake in evening light. This is at the NW end of the lake.

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Shark's Nose

Jan 31, 2013

Tyler follows the wild & airy traverse to the N summit

Tyler follows the wild & airy traverse to the N summit

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Direct Southwest Face (5.9)

Jan 20, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Tony B's comments on the last pitch brought back some spooky memories for me - my experience was very similar. I remember that little creosote bush - its base is/was about as thick as your pinkie. This was about 1996...


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Shark's Nose : Direct Southwest Face (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: For many years, a casual flip through my Wind River guidebook would always end up in my spending several minutes leering at the description and photo of this route. Now that I've finally gotten in there and climbed it, I don't think I'd bestow it with the hallowed 'classic' status that the venerable Mr. Kelsey does/did. However, that might have something to do with the fact that we started waaaaay off-route (too far to the right, in the 'hideous chute') and basically missed the first 4 pitches... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Zipper (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: The squeeze chimney on p2 is pretty tight- I almost got stuck (32" waist). Do have a couple larger pieces for the second pitch.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: nolteboy When: Sep 10, 2006

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Comments: Beavs, you better get up there and do it to it, boy, before some other eager beaver beats you to the punch!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: My comments are for p.1 only- haven't tried the 2nd pitch (McCarthy West Face route)...

A little different from most Tower pitches that I've climbed, this one features a stress-type fracture that runs up and down one particular column (as opposed to the typical crack here that actually separates the columns). Interesting and sustained climbing, but with a couple of good rests. A #1 and a couple of #0.75 camalots for the thin hand crack below the roof, with doubles of smaller cams ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.

As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.

Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: A great chimney, and a good route to do in warmer weather. When it's hot out there, it's nice and cool in here.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: Pitch one is straight-in splitter goodness for fingees. Pitch two is slamma jamma time for hands. mmmmm mmmmm good!!!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: A very fine route. Don't hang out at the roof- just place gear and go for it. Trust me - pulling the roof isn't nearly as bad as hanging out underneath wasting energy! I was trying to be mr. trad and didn't clip the bolt at the roof, but my second got super frustrated on acount of the rope getting sucked into the roof crack, thereby foiling his efforts to pull thru... so it might not be a bad idea for the leader to clip that bolt with a short draw just to help out the second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: Pre-dawn enthusiasm and a failure to ask ourselves, "are we really where we think we are?" combined a few years ago to bless my buddy Jeff and I with a trip up this "route". The description given above is an accurate one- stick with the North Chimney.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Planet Waves (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: Not a uniform splitter, but continuously changing in size and shape.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 3, 2006

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Comments: This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 2, 2006

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Comments: This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...


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