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Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Dec 23, 2013
Contact nolteboy


Point Rank: # 2,669
Total Points: 174
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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All (203) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (94) | Posts (1) | Stars (94) | Ratings (5)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Super sweet. Do p.1 of Hammer, and then just keep motoring right into Tool Or Die. Two decent stoppers can be placed before moving off the flake (i.e. right before committing to the crux "inverted V-slot"), and from there to the top, it's nothing but slamma jamma.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hairlip (5.9+)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Worthwhile. Instead of rapping from the slings at the top of the crack, better to do the horizontal traverse right to a great gear belay.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Obviously Four Believers (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 11, 2005

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Comments: Jeff G and I replaced the hanger on the crux pitch's first bolt on 7/10/05. I found the crux move to be difficult for 11a, and subsequently "tested" (i.e. fell on) the bolt several times before pulling thru. Bolt seems to be in good shape.

All in all, a wandering route that has good climbing and travels thru some cool terrain.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress
By: nolteboy When: Jul 5, 2005

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Comments: The rock here is surprisingly good.

We approached via the Deer Mtn Junction trailhead. Took a left at the 2nd right-hand switchback and traversed around to the north side of Deer Mtn. Only the last couple hundred yards before the talus field was anything close to being a bushwhack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress : Nun's Buttress (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 3, 2005

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Comments: If the first pitch of this route were on the Book, you'd have to wait in line to do it. It's that good. After that, the angle drops off and... well, you know how that goes. Basically, you're walking up here to do the first pitch!

If you're doing no route other than this one, and if you've parked at the Deer Mtn Junction Trailhead, a great way to get down is to climb the route with your packs, and then once on top, strike out to the south across the top of Deer Mountain - easy walking. After... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress
By: nolteboy When: Jul 3, 2005

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Comments: The quality of the rock here is surprisingly good - very "Lumpy-like".

We approached via the trailhead at Deer Mtn Junction. It wasn't bad at all. After taking the trail all the way up to the 2nd right-hand switchback, strike off thru the woods (to the north) at a level grade - neither gain nor give up altitude. After traversing around to the north side of Deer Mountain (thru mostly open forest - easy walking), encounter a few hundred yards of blow-downs and bushwhacking as the prow of the r... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Baalbek (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 24, 2005

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Comments: Well worth doing despite appearances to the contrary.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Piton Perch (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: This place turns into an Urban Assault Area on weekends, thanks to it's inclusion in a popular Front Range Topropes book. Go mid-week if you can.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : Nemesis Northeast Face (5.11a/b)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: If we are talking about the same route, it's definitely not a 5.12... NE Face climbs up to small right-facing corner, then right at the roof, then to the top. Nuts for TR anchor.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : East of Eden (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Quite an anomaly for the Poudre - this canyon would be a destination area if it were full of quality lines like this one.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Direct Second Buttress (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: I remember the crux on the 2nd pitch feeling more like .10a than 5.9


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Contrived runout getting to the first bolt, but otherwise an enjoyable pitch of good-quality face climbing. Seemed a little soft for 11a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Recommended. Green or yellow alien before the traverse left on pitch one. Don't remember much gear on pitch two apart from the bolts.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: The position and exposure on this route are indeed easthetic, but the shattered nature of the rock means lots of loose stuff.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: After pitch 1 is dispensed with, pitches 2 and 3 offer perfect rock, awesome exposure, and splitter cracks. Highly recommended.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Silver Surfer (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 16, 2005

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Comments: Short, but worthwhile. The easiest route on this section of Holdout.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Monkey Wrench (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 16, 2005

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Comments: A very good pitch. Slammer hands up to the ledge below the flare, at which point a yellow tcu can be placed high and left. After stepping off the ledge and placing a good #4 (or maybe 4.5?) camalot, a couple of 5.10 moves gets you thru the flare and back into hand and fist sizes...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: I, too, felt that the thin-hands pitch was the true crux. I recall Mr. Bubb's statement (in some other route review) that he has smallish hands, hence a possible explanation as to how the pitch felt to him. If your hands are "standard issue male hands" (like mine are), it will feel harder. Then of course there's the subject of how good at thin hand cracks one is....GAAAHHHH!!! Sorry to bring up a topic that could be discussed ad infinitum, but I thought some clarification/obfuscation might b... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: But I guess that would have been awfully expensive....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: A spectacular route on one of the most majestic alpine faces in the Park. Indeed it is a "bolted" route but not a "sport" route. There is always good pro fairly close by at the hard parts, but on easier ground (up to 5.9) be prepared to take it out 'quite' a ways.... Kudos to the authors of this route for not putting in a fatty every 6 feet.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Soft Touch (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 10, 2005

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Comments: This is a very good route, especially for the grade....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lawyer on the Toilet (5.8)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 7, 2005

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Comments: The crack at the top is nice and steep, but the rock is a little friable up there...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Hideaway Chimney (5.5)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Protects very well, appearances notwithstanding. Once you get up inside the chimney itself, there are several crack systems to choose from. A little bit of everything for pro. At the top, go right and rap off the anchors for the route FLAKE.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Bill Steal (5.6)
By: nolteboy When: Jun 3, 2005

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Comments: On a cool morning, this is a great route to soak up the sun and get limbered up on.


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