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The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, weird roof since the curtain broke off. Photo by Cody Olsen.


Member Since: Jul 15, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 685
Total Points: 936
Last Year: 125
Last 30 Days: 15
41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 994 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 144 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 63 | Stars 413 | Ratings 294
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Rocky Top : Tuktoolong (5.7 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: After some mudaineering to finally get to the base, we tried to spot the piton bolt ladder. I ended up climbing the other route, by mistake. Definitely wasn't A1....much scarier. Cool summit! Thanks for the find Cam!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: C2?

I thought it was more like C2−. For reference, I think FOF is C1, and Kingfisher about C0+...maybe.....

But seriously, I think grades in the fishers don't mean shit. I've found them either soft or sandbagged. More often then not, sandbagged. That's the way it is. It's constantly changing from year to year. Who cares about what grade the route is. It's a sweet route and a good adventure. Enjoy the mud. You'll get er done this time, Jason! Woohoo


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Well said, Frank. I'm thankful for the climbing community we all are involved in. And I'm glad there was never a bunch of fighting over this issue. Once again, I admire your guys efforts you put into this route. That had to be a ton of work. Nice meeting you guys a few weeks ago. I'm sure our paths will cross soon. Cheers!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Luck (WI4 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is an AMAZING route. It's like Vail drytooling in the alpine...at least the first pitch. I recommend the roof variation (FA line). It's not often you get HARD drytooling at 13,000+ ft. If it were in Vail, it would be comparable if not harder then P1 of Red Bull and Vodka. The alpine version of it. It doesn't look hard...but it is.... Bring a specter. As after the roof, that's your next piece before a 0.5. Don't fall at that point. Well worth it! As good as the Ole #6!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Resurrection (WI5- M8-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular route. I've always stared at it for the last several years, even brought up my trad gear most the time. I thought it was a quite a bit scarier then Octopussy. Wonderful creation by Jeff Lowe. Also some of the pins have pulled since this writing.

I left a fixed pecker at the crux to make it a little more safer as the original pins are pretty terrible. It ain't a sport climb, and falling on just about the whole route is a no-no. Serious outing. 4 star classic. Watch the rope drag. Pul... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: I remember clipping a lot of the gear on the ledge, committing to the overhang, and clipping Jeff Lowe's two pins in the roof. Made sense to me at the time. Rope drag wasn't bad.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : 99 Problems (M5-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: Pretty crazy this year. When I did this 2(?) years ago, there was absolutely no ice on it. It accepted great gear though. This year it is basically all ice and being lead with just ice screws.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: When Erik and I got on it a couple years ago in super dry conditions sans bolts, the anchors were descent on the climb. Doing it without any bolts is totally possible. Never too dangerous. My opinion is that they are overkill. I think the bolts should be saved for the other side of the road. Once you cross the river, I believe that side has a history of boldness. We shouldn't bring the serious level down just so more people can climb it. Wait till you're ready, and then get after it. I ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: This seemed hard for M8...compared to routes such as Amphibian's P1...though different in style. The holds at the top are getting worse by ascent. Small holds don't seem to hold up well in Vail with the rock. There are slopers now.

Still a great climb, though!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Noah8000 When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Soloed this the other week. The crux moves everyone talks about is no longer the crux. Sketchy Andy added two new FAT bolts at the crux for another "high line." Reach around the corner from the bolt and clip them and then you're able to skip that crux pod to a rivet hanger. I always thought a fixed pecker would be better rather then two big bolts but who am I to say that. Are the Fishers Andy's palace for adding bolts everywhere? Sheesh

Anyhow, I feel like the moves getting off that next pitch ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Makes sense. Thanks for updating the route Sam with all those anchors and etc! Much appreciated


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: David, Derek, and I finished this up last weekend. Marked my 5th major tower. What an adventure. The crux pitch was actually the pitch going to the saddle. The traverse pitch up high is not as bad. Still has some dicey free climbing but is probably the best pitch on route. Getting to the bolt ladder on P4 is pretty scary. Summit pitch is stellar so is the chimney splitting the whole tower! Oh and P1.....5.8+....hahahahhahahaha :) Go explore for more info.

Also whats up with all those bolts?????... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Sundial : The Sundial (5.9 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: So classic!!!! Do it while you're in the area!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Noah8000 When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: The climb is awesome up until the crux. I myself didn't enjoy the crux, but maybe that's cause I was trying to stay in the corner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: Noah8000 When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The crux felt like it was on the first bolt for me. Outstanding face climbing! Always a challenge to read. One of the best face pitches in Eldo for sure. Make sure you're having a good day before doing this thing. I don't know what was more scary, getting to the first bolt or getting to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: I've been scared of this climb for a long time. I've waited for quite a while until I was confident I could do it without falling on the crux, but it's totally doable and I don't think it deserves the reputation it gets. Don't get me wrong, it could end bad if you don't place the gear right. Though the top pitch is exciting, hang in there and place a good TCU with a decent RP above. I felt this protected the crux enough. It would be a bad day if the gear blew, but you can get it in there well. D... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Noah8000 When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: That #10 stopper a foot above the pin on the crux is BOMBER. Well-protected crux me thinks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Noah8000 When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Gear is good at the crux. Weird crux for sure. Make sure to watch rope drag or else the rope will get stuck at the lip.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Lu... (5.11-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: I think this is my favorite route in CCC now. I thought I was in the Black for a while there. I don't think it can get much more exposed as far as CCC standards. We pulled off no loose rock. Great adventure. I'll have to do it again. Thanks for the route, guys!

Still a fixed nut on P2 or P3 (depending on how you link it) which also felt like 5.11a but we'll say 5.10 and call it good. :) No fixed nut on the last pitch which was kind of physical and you had to work for your gear more then normal.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Noah8000 When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: The crux of the headwall is fiddling in gear, especially your first time. Great route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Noah8000 When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Still a bomber fixed nut. P2 protects really well and is definitely the money pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Noah8000 When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: P3 has to be one of the best 5.8s out there. Superb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Cool route. P1 accepts gear well. The piton on the P2/3 roof is bomber. I don't see it coming out for a while. Besides great gear is right by it. You really don't need anything bigger than a #1. Lots of nutting.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Citadel : The Forrest/Briggs Indirec... (5.3 A2+)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Nice work guys! Looks wild


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: Just did this with Brian Crim and David Alexander. A couple things, we found that every pitch had a serious section. Definitely a serious route. The P5 end is not C1 as described in other guides. C2++ or just C2. The 5.10 R/X pitch was pretty awesome actually. Fun but scary climbing. It's a little soft for 5.10 but I'd hate to sandbag someone on a serious lead like it. The jump right to a jug as described above is really really wild! As the fall would be very bad. The last pitch is not a gimme. ... more >>


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