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The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2010
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1089 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 150 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 67 | Stars 448 | Ratings 319
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northeast Face : Cowboys and Indians (5.11c)
By: Noah8000 When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: Nicola, I think we saw some chalk from you guys on route. Funny!

On P7, we experienced confusion even after prior knowledge. For what it's worth, we went up that wet, mossy, right-slanting crack. Right when it got wide, we made a committing couple moves left to a small dihedral with not really a ton of gear, but the moves are easy in the dihedral. I felt the traverse to be 5.11a, but I think I grabbed the wrong holds. We found no hidden crack. So this perhaps adds even more confusion on this p... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Noah8000 When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: RAD route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Brushing against poison ivy has never bothered me in the Black Canyon, but I guess it did here. That was the crux for me. I'm currently suffering from it all over. The route is great. The ivy...not so much.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Sublime Buttress (5.11 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I really think this is one of the cooler routes in RMNP. So varied, great belays, steep, and great exposure. Like others previously stated, p1 is hardly a warm-up for p2. So get ready for a flash pump. Pitch 6 was definitely the rope management and maybe mental crux of the route but also the best pitch on the route I thought. So good! The last pitch was so much fun as well.

I found brass offsets were way better than RPs. Using them multiple times, including protecting the 10a R runout near ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Definitely my favorite route that I've done in The Black, just for the overall experience. Couple things though. The rappels are shitty, kind of like the Diamond rappels, except with more things to get your rope stuck, especially the 4th rappel. Next time, I'd have a ride arrangement and take the Cruise Gully. Second, take the two pitch variation. That should be the normal way to go. Really, really good. P2 is almost 200 ft of 5.11cish. So good. The crux for JJ and I was burly. Easy to get lost... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Movable Stoned Voyage (5.10)
By: Noah8000 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Linking the 5.10a P2 and traverse pitch into one makes sense. Rope drag could be a problem, but it's totally doable. The traverse move isn't that reach-dependent. Only need one #4.

The womb fight rules! Ha ha!

Give yourself some time on this one with the approach and all.... The crux pitch is NOT 5.9+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Noah8000 When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: The crux pitch on this thing is easily one of my favorites in the canyon. Webster always knew how to find a line. So good!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: I'm guessing it's Sketchy Andy......but somebody take that slack line off from the summit!!

It's been there for several months. Two or three brand new bolts are about 5 ft above the normal bomber anchor??

I have nothing against slack lining. I think its an incredible talent but when you go around adding bolts where there is no need to add them, and when you leave your stupid line up for months....not cool

Ruins the peace you get in the desert when you hear the flapping of the line the whole d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : West Face (5.11)
By: Noah8000 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: This route, as said before, goes really fast if you free everything and pull through the 5.11 crux at 5.10+ C1. Offset cams were useful.

Also, the summit is a great place to sleep on. Bring the beer and have a cookout! (Not saying I camped up there).....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : Rasta Wall (5.7 A3-4)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this with Derek Wolfe earlier this year. Fantastic route. Really enjoyed the first pitch and the roof on the last pitch. #6 was nice to have at the top. Steep fun!! Definitely doable in two days. Woohoo!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Added a bomber offset nut to the p1 belay. No need to back it up now, if you choose to belay there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Shangri-La (5.10a A0 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: A0 HAHAHAH


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Just Another Duncan Route (WI4-5 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: One of the best on the road in my opinion. I did it in one 60m pitch to Wellborn's nest anchor from back in the day. I guess you could continue up, but it seems most just do the first 60m and then rappel as that's the good stuff. Get on it if it's in. Super classic that many ignore.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Rad line. Climbed this with Kurt Ross the other day. Thanks for the work on this one, guys. We brought singles up to #3 and a small set of nuts. No pins needed, really. Seemed like more then enough. Pulling out of the cage is super unique and awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: You're the man, Griz! These warm temps are a bit much.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Super fat this year. And hacked out now.

Worth noting: only a #1 is needed to back up a tricam, maybe a screw or two, 4 alpine draws, and 4 regular draws. You really don't need much. The M4 finish is rad. Dig the dirt!!!!

I cleaned up a lot of the fixed junk a couple days ago. So now it's really just Lowe's pins. In me doing that, it probably made the "Octowussy" conditions scarier, but there shouldn't be any A0'ing to get to the dagger! Get on it! It's kind of cruiser this year.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.10 in CO???? It's one of my favorite. My partner left my small RP on the original start on P1. Bummer. Don't know if it's still there, but it will take out some of the adventure. Killer exposure, great climbing, and some serious wind!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Agathla Original Route/ Wes... (5.8+ X)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: Ah, about time Agathla graced Mountainprojects pages. Shiprocks evil twin, indeed. Maybe the better of the two imo. :) Nice work on the ascent guys. This one never see's much action. Definitely an accomplishment just to survive this thing. haha! So classic. I put that handwritten topo somewhere. Maybe I'll post it one of these days. But probably not. This thing is all about adventure and nothing else. RAD summit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : 7th Testicle (WI5- M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I think this variation is way better than the original start. More direct. You usually get a chimney rest between the dagger and wall, and who doesn't love pulling onto hangers?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Thang aka Frigid Insemi... (WI5+ M5+ R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This route never disappoints! Catching this thing when it first comes in, detached from Seventh Tentacle, is way higher quality, imo. A couple 10cm and 13s will do the trick. So fun!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : The Squid (WI5-6 M6-7)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: The right mixed variation is well worth the effort. The protection is good enough though not extremely straightforward, and getting Stein pulls on the traverse over to the ice is rad! I started further right in a bizarre chimney. Very awkward. Practice your slab climbing in pons. ;) Still exciting though. Lots and lots of draws and small gear. FUN!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: Andy, I think it's for when the curtain is super lean and doesn't form over the lip. Don't worry though, it's super out of the way from the standard route. You'd have to go out of your way to clip it, and the rope drag would be bad.

I found a #2 pecker protects...okay...when the curtain doesn't hang super low.

Alex Lowe was the man!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! Been wanting to do this one for a while.

Wharton's additional pitch is super good. I think it's the best pitch on the route, even though the crux pitch is awesome as well. Good climb for a short day or bad weather. The whole route protects super well. Don't hesitate to give er a go!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Three Dragons (M7)
By: Noah8000 When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey JD! Thanks for the edit error. Hope you're doing well!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Rocky Top : Tuktoolong (5.7 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: After some mudaineering to finally get to the base, we tried to spot the piton bolt ladder. I ended up climbing the other route, by mistake. Definitely wasn't A1....much scarier. Cool summit! Thanks for the find Cam!


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