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The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 688
Total Points: 979
Last Year: 63
Last 30 Days: 6
45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Noah8000 been climbing?










Contributions


All 1066 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 147 | Page Improvements | Comments 84 | Posts 67 | Stars 441 | Ratings 312
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Noah8000 When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: The crux pitch on this thing is easily one of my favorites in the canyon. Webster always knew how to find a line. So good!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: I'm guessing it's Sketchy Andy......but somebody take that slack line off from the summit!!

It's been there for several months. Two or three brand new bolts are about 5 ft above the normal bomber anchor??

I have nothing against slack lining. I think its an incredible talent but when you go around adding bolts where there is no need to add them, and when you leave your stupid line up for months....not cool

Ruins the peace you get in the desert when you hear the flapping of the line the whole d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : West Face (5.11)
By: Noah8000 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: This route, as said before, goes really fast if you free everything and pull through the 5.11 crux at 5.10+ C1. Offset cams were useful.

Also, the summit is a great place to sleep on. Bring the beer and have a cookout! (Not saying I camped up there).....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : Rasta Wall (5.7 A3-4)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this with Derek Wolfe earlier this year. Fantastic route. Really enjoyed the first pitch and the roof on the last pitch. #6 was nice to have at the top. Steep fun!! Definitely doable in two days. Woohoo!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Added a bomber offset nut to the p1 belay. No need to back it up now, if you choose to belay there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Shangri-La (5.10a A0 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: A0 HAHAHAH


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Just Another Duncan Route (WI4-5 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: One of the best on the road in my opinion. I did it in one 60m pitch to Wellborn's nest anchor from back in the day. I guess you could continue up, but it seems most just do the first 60m and then rappel as that's the good stuff. Get on it if it's in. Super classic that many ignore.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Rad line. Climbed this with Kurt Ross the other day. Thanks for the work on this one, guys. We brought singles up to #3 and a small set of nuts. No pins needed, really. Seemed like more then enough. Pulling out of the cage is super unique and awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: You're the man, Griz! These warm temps are a bit much.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Super fat this year. And hacked out now.

Worth noting: only a #1 is needed to back up a tricam, maybe a screw or two, 4 alpine draws, and 4 regular draws. You really don't need much. The M4 finish is rad. Dig the dirt!!!!

I cleaned up a lot of the fixed junk a couple days ago. So now it's really just Lowe's pins. In me doing that, it probably made the "Octowussy" conditions scarier, but there shouldn't be any A0'ing to get to the dagger! Get on it! It's kind of cruiser this year.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.10 in CO???? It's one of my favorite. My partner left my small RP on the original start on P1. Bummer. Don't know if it's still there, but it will take out some of the adventure. Killer exposure, great climbing, and some serious wind!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Agathla Original Route/ Wes... (5.8+ X)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: Ah, about time Agathla graced Mountainprojects pages. Shiprocks evil twin, indeed. Maybe the better of the two imo. :) Nice work on the ascent guys. This one never see's much action. Definitely an accomplishment just to survive this thing. haha! So classic. I put that handwritten topo somewhere. Maybe I'll post it one of these days. But probably not. This thing is all about adventure and nothing else. RAD summit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : 7th Testicle (WI5- M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I think this variation is way better than the original start. More direct. You usually get a chimney rest between the dagger and wall, and who doesn't love pulling onto hangers?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Thang aka Frigid Insemi... (WI5+ M5+ R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This route never disappoints! Catching this thing when it first comes in, detached from Seventh Tentacle, is way higher quality, imo. A couple 10cm and 13s will do the trick. So fun!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : The Squid (WI5-6 M6-7)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: The right mixed variation is well worth the effort. The protection is good enough though not extremely straightforward, and getting Stein pulls on the traverse over to the ice is rad! I started further right in a bizarre chimney. Very awkward. Practice your slab climbing in pons. ;) Still exciting though. Lots and lots of draws and small gear. FUN!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: Andy, I think it's for when the curtain is super lean and doesn't form over the lip. Don't worry though, it's super out of the way from the standard route. You'd have to go out of your way to clip it, and the rope drag would be bad.

I found a #2 pecker protects...okay...when the curtain doesn't hang super low.

Alex Lowe was the man!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! Been wanting to do this one for a while.

Wharton's additional pitch is super good. I think it's the best pitch on the route, even though the crux pitch is awesome as well. Good climb for a short day or bad weather. The whole route protects super well. Don't hesitate to give er a go!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Three Dragons (M7)
By: Noah8000 When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey JD! Thanks for the edit error. Hope you're doing well!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Rocky Top : Tuktoolong (5.7 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: After some mudaineering to finally get to the base, we tried to spot the piton bolt ladder. I ended up climbing the other route, by mistake. Definitely wasn't A1....much scarier. Cool summit! Thanks for the find Cam!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: C2?

I thought it was more like C2−. For reference, I think FOF is C1, and Kingfisher about C0+...maybe.....

But seriously, I think grades in the fishers don't mean shit. I've found them either soft or sandbagged. More often then not, sandbagged. That's the way it is. It's constantly changing from year to year. Who cares about what grade the route is. It's a sweet route and a good adventure. Enjoy the mud. You'll get er done this time, Jason! Woohoo


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Well said, Frank. I'm thankful for the climbing community we all are involved in. And I'm glad there was never a bunch of fighting over this issue. Once again, I admire your guys efforts you put into this route. That had to be a ton of work. Nice meeting you guys a few weeks ago. I'm sure our paths will cross soon. Cheers!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Luck (WI4 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is an AMAZING route. It's like Vail drytooling in the alpine...at least the first pitch. I recommend the roof variation (FA line). It's not often you get HARD drytooling at 13,000+ ft. If it were in Vail, it would be comparable if not harder then P1 of Red Bull and Vodka. The alpine version of it. It doesn't look hard...but it is.... Bring a specter. As after the roof, that's your next piece before a 0.5. Don't fall at that point. Well worth it! As good as the Ole #6!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Resurrection (WI5- M8-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular route. I've always stared at it for the last several years, even brought up my trad gear most the time. I thought it was a quite a bit scarier then Octopussy. Wonderful creation by Jeff Lowe. Also some of the pins have pulled since this writing.

I left a fixed pecker at the crux to make it a little more safer as the original pins are pretty terrible. It ain't a sport climb, and falling on just about the whole route is a no-no. Serious outing. 4 star classic. Watch the rope drag. Pul... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: I remember clipping a lot of the gear on the ledge, committing to the overhang, and clipping Jeff Lowe's two pins in the roof. Made sense to me at the time. Rope drag wasn't bad.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : 99 Problems (M5-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: Pretty crazy this year. When I did this 2(?) years ago, there was absolutely no ice on it. It accepted great gear though. This year it is basically all ice and being lead with just ice screws.


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