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The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2010
Last Visit: Mar 28, 2015
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Point Rank: # 687
Total Points: 973
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 0
45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1042 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 147 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 67 | Stars 430 | Ratings 305
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Just Another Duncan Route (WI4-5 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: One of the best on the road in my opinion. I did it in one 60m pitch to Wellborn's nest anchor from back in the day. I guess you could continue up, but it seems most just do the first 60m and then rappel as that's the good stuff. Get on it if it's in. Super classic that many ignore.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Rad line. Climbed this with Kurt Ross the other day. Thanks for the work on this one, guys. We brought singles up to #3 and a small set of nuts. No pins needed, really. Seemed like more then enough. Pulling out of the cage is super unique and awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: You're the man, Griz! These warm temps are a bit much.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Super fat this year. And hacked out now.

Worth noting: only a #1 is needed to back up a tricam, maybe a screw or two, 4 alpine draws, and 4 regular draws. You really don't need much. The M4 finish is rad. Dig the dirt!!!!

I cleaned up a lot of the fixed junk a couple days ago. So now it's really just Lowe's pins. In me doing that, it probably made the "Octowussy" conditions scarier, but there shouldn't be any A0'ing to get to the dagger! Get on it! It's kind of cruiser this year.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.10 in CO???? It's one of my favorite. My partner left my small RP on the original start on P1. Bummer. Don't know if it's still there, but it will take out some of the adventure. Killer exposure, great climbing, and some serious wind!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Agathla Original Route/ Wes... (5.8+ X)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: Ah, about time Agathla graced Mountainprojects pages. Shiprocks evil twin, indeed. Maybe the better of the two imo. :) Nice work on the ascent guys. This one never see's much action. Definitely an accomplishment just to survive this thing. haha! So classic. I put that handwritten topo somewhere. Maybe I'll post it one of these days. But probably not. This thing is all about adventure and nothing else. RAD summit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : 7th Testicle (WI5- M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I think this variation is way better than the original start. More direct. You usually get a chimney rest between the dagger and wall, and who doesn't love pulling onto hangers?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Thang aka Frigid Insemi... (WI5+ M5+ R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This route never disappoints! Catching this thing when it first comes in, detached from Seventh Tentacle, is way higher quality, imo. A couple 10cm and 13s will do the trick. So fun!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : The Squid (WI5-6 M6-7)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: The right mixed variation is well worth the effort. The protection is good enough though not extremely straightforward, and getting Stein pulls on the traverse over to the ice is rad! I started further right in a bizarre chimney. Very awkward. Practice your slab climbing in pons. ;) Still exciting though. Lots and lots of draws and small gear. FUN!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: Andy, I think it's for when the curtain is super lean and doesn't form over the lip. Don't worry though, it's super out of the way from the standard route. You'd have to go out of your way to clip it, and the rope drag would be bad.

I found a #2 pecker protects...okay...when the curtain doesn't hang super low.

Alex Lowe was the man!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! Been wanting to do this one for a while.

Wharton's additional pitch is super good. I think it's the best pitch on the route, even though the crux pitch is awesome as well. Good climb for a short day or bad weather. The whole route protects super well. Don't hesitate to give er a go!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Three Dragons (M7)
By: Noah8000 When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey JD! Thanks for the edit error. Hope you're doing well!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Rocky Top : Tuktoolong (5.7 A1)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: After some mudaineering to finally get to the base, we tried to spot the piton bolt ladder. I ended up climbing the other route, by mistake. Definitely wasn't A1....much scarier. Cool summit! Thanks for the find Cam!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: C2?

I thought it was more like C2−. For reference, I think FOF is C1, and Kingfisher about C0+...maybe.....

But seriously, I think grades in the fishers don't mean shit. I've found them either soft or sandbagged. More often then not, sandbagged. That's the way it is. It's constantly changing from year to year. Who cares about what grade the route is. It's a sweet route and a good adventure. Enjoy the mud. You'll get er done this time, Jason! Woohoo


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Well said, Frank. I'm thankful for the climbing community we all are involved in. And I'm glad there was never a bunch of fighting over this issue. Once again, I admire your guys efforts you put into this route. That had to be a ton of work. Nice meeting you guys a few weeks ago. I'm sure our paths will cross soon. Cheers!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Luck (WI4 M5)
By: Noah8000 When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is an AMAZING route. It's like Vail drytooling in the alpine...at least the first pitch. I recommend the roof variation (FA line). It's not often you get HARD drytooling at 13,000+ ft. If it were in Vail, it would be comparable if not harder then P1 of Red Bull and Vodka. The alpine version of it. It doesn't look hard...but it is.... Bring a specter. As after the roof, that's your next piece before a 0.5. Don't fall at that point. Well worth it! As good as the Ole #6!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Resurrection (WI5- M8-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular route. I've always stared at it for the last several years, even brought up my trad gear most the time. I thought it was a quite a bit scarier then Octopussy. Wonderful creation by Jeff Lowe. Also some of the pins have pulled since this writing.

I left a fixed pecker at the crux to make it a little more safer as the original pins are pretty terrible. It ain't a sport climb, and falling on just about the whole route is a no-no. Serious outing. 4 star classic. Watch the rope drag. Pul... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Octopussy (WI6 M7-8 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: I remember clipping a lot of the gear on the ledge, committing to the overhang, and clipping Jeff Lowe's two pins in the roof. Made sense to me at the time. Rope drag wasn't bad.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : 99 Problems (M5-)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: Pretty crazy this year. When I did this 2(?) years ago, there was absolutely no ice on it. It accepted great gear though. This year it is basically all ice and being lead with just ice screws.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: When Erik and I got on it a couple years ago in super dry conditions sans bolts, the anchors were descent on the climb. Doing it without any bolts is totally possible. Never too dangerous. My opinion is that they are overkill. I think the bolts should be saved for the other side of the road. Once you cross the river, I believe that side has a history of boldness. We shouldn't bring the serious level down just so more people can climb it. Wait till you're ready, and then get after it. I ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Noah8000 When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: This seemed hard for M8...compared to routes such as Amphibian's P1...though different in style. The holds at the top are getting worse by ascent. Small holds don't seem to hold up well in Vail with the rock. There are slopers now.

Still a great climb, though!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Noah8000 When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Soloed this the other week. The crux moves everyone talks about is no longer the crux. Sketchy Andy added two new FAT bolts at the crux for another "high line." Reach around the corner from the bolt and clip them and then you're able to skip that crux pod to a rivet hanger. I always thought a fixed pecker would be better rather then two big bolts but who am I to say that. Are the Fishers Andy's palace for adding bolts everywhere? Sheesh

Anyhow, I feel like the moves getting off that next pitch ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Makes sense. Thanks for updating the route Sam with all those anchors and etc! Much appreciated


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: David, Derek, and I finished this up last weekend. Marked my 5th major tower. What an adventure. The crux pitch was actually the pitch going to the saddle. The traverse pitch up high is not as bad. Still has some dicey free climbing but is probably the best pitch on route. Getting to the bolt ladder on P4 is pretty scary. Summit pitch is stellar so is the chimney splitting the whole tower! Oh and P1.....5.8+....hahahahhahahaha :) Go explore for more info.

Also whats up with all those bolts?????... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Sundial : The Sundial (5.9 PG13)
By: Noah8000 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: So classic!!!! Do it while you're in the area!


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