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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Head Jam (5.6)
By: Noah Jordahl When: 6 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.5 in the Lambert and Shull guide is a ridiculous sandbag. The "head jam" was every bit of 5.7, even at Moores. I found it stouter than Golden Earring, and not far off Zoo View.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Devil in the White House : Devil in the White House (5.11- PG13)
By: Noah Jordahl When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Dihedral Route (5.7)
By: Noah Jordahl When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll want 7 or 8 draws, the route goes up the left face of the dihedral until the roof, then you move slightly left and up for a couple more bolts until you hit the anchors. ~90ft. Really glad this got bolted, the thought of doing the lower section on gear is awful, lots of deceptively loose rock.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Ellie Reynolds Memorial But... (5.10-)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 isn't a full 120', more like 95, a 60m rope was perfect for descent. Nothing more than two or maybe three cams (0.75 and #1 C4s) are really helpful for the upper section of P1. Beautiful route with a fun, perfectly protected crux.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Turkey Shoot (5.8)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful route, but I think the "R" rating in the guidebook on the carolinaclimbers.org may be warranted. There is a tenuous move before you can clip the second bolt that if you blew might result in a groundfall.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Whippoorwill : Jowiki (5.10a)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great use of a short bit of rock to make a fun climb. The start is balancy and definitely the crux, if you can hit the first bolt comfortably you're in for a fun jug haul from there.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Sandstonia : Badass Tattoo (5.10b)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this may be a harder climb for the shorter folks. I'm 6'2 and this felt closer to 10- / 9+ with a few decent reaches.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roof takes a bomber #4 C4 from below that protects the move beautifully. You might be able to wiggle a #3 in, or pull the roof and stick pro while you're doing it...but it was nice to have the bigger piece before pulling the roof.
Also, this really is a Moore's 5.7+...i.e. it's not unreasonable to advise a leader that they're going to want to be solid climbing 5.9s elsewhere before committing. That said, the cruxes all take good pro.
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Location: NC : Carrboro/University Lake bo... : Jolly Green Boulder : For the Greater Good (V-easy)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch out for broken glass on and around this boulder. I tried to clean up what I saw, but there was a lot of little stuff that would be a nasty surprise to crimp onto.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Volunteer Wall : Darwin Loves You (5.9+)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Aug 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super pumpy for a 9+, but it's just on unreal jugs the whole time. Loved it.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : 27 Years of Climbing (5.8)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the anchor bolts is loose in it's hole. The other one is still bomber, and the route has a piece of tape on the first bolt warning people, but just FYI.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8 Mod. Snow)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super, super classic climb. The rock quality is poor down low, with significant rock fall danger. Higher up the climbing becomes beautiful and highly enjoyable.
For descent, contrary to the above, rap anchors are set for single ropes. Don't haul a second rope up, as the route is a rope dragging beast, and you're doing well if you can avoid getting your rope stuck at least once. There is only one section that requires any down climbing, and that's for less than 40' traversing to another rap ... more >>
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Angel C... : Main Rock : When Free Climbers Wore Ham... (5.8)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, I'd venture that it doesn't get climbed very often though, judging by the amount of lichen I contended with. I rated it PG-13 only for the first 20 feet or so, as the rock is exfoliating fairly badly there. I had a (admittedly a borderline ripper piece) pull when the rock/lichen my feet were on decided it'd had enough. I was saved from a groundfall by a small nut a few feet below though, so the rock is good in places. Further up the rock quality becomes very good for the interior,... more >>
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: East Gr... : Crackland : Alaska Girls Do Crack (5.7)
By: Noah Jordahl When: May 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also a good sized spruce tree you can tie off to and belay a second from.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: East Gr... : Twin Towers : Sandbag (5.9)
By: Noah Jordahl When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very thoughtfully bolted. The pro is exactly where you want it. This was my first 5.9 sport lead, and I never felt like I was in a position for a high consequence fall. Good stuff! Also although there is still snow on the ground the area around Twin Towers is in great shape for climbing, with clean rock.
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