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Breithorn ski descent


Member Since: Apr 12, 2012
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,471
Total Points: 403
Last Year: 142
Last 30 Days: 92
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 189 | Routes 13 | Areas 7 | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 28 | Stars 68 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : The Pinnacle : Afternoon Delight (5.7 X)
By: Noah.J When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Single 60 gets you down. Bumping a green big bro for the first pitch makes this a R/PG-13 route. A piece or two on the second pitch, traversing from right to left further avoids any R/X climbing, and keeps the grade at 5.5-6ish.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Baby Has a Bolt Gun (5.10c)
By: Noah.J When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Skirted right and blew it anyway, a fairly clean fall but pretty big. Definitely agree with the description to go straight up at the 6th-7th bolts for full value.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Parking Lot : Thin to Win (5.10)
By: Noah.J When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: You can top the climb out by continuing up past the ledge on super juggy, freshly bolted 5.7. Bring 12 draws + an anchor setup. Get ready for some thrutching at the start.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain North Face
By: Noah.J When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: The 3rd edition Kelley Guide has them all. Keep an eye on out Amazon, sometimes it's stupid expensive ($900+), but then it will drop down to the ~$40-50 range. Currently it's $44, so I'd hop on it. Superior to the L and S guide in a lot of ways.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain North Face
By: Noah.J When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: The directions on the page here for the North Face aren't quite right. If you start at the summit and head directly north out onto the slab, trending slightly west along the treeline, the first visible anchors to rap down from are a pair of shiny stainless bolts over Zen Slab and Dark Star, the two furthest west routes. It is then a rope stretching 200' rap down to the anchors over Zen Slab, and a further two raps to some steepish 4th class slab where you can bushwack out to the road, or top b... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Good Samaritans (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I tried, but we all ended with the itchiness.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Good Samaritans (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch is money, but the first pitch could use some gardening (bring your gloves, the ivy is still there). If you have a #6 consider bringing it for the P1 wideness.


Location: NC : Cooks Wall : 'Tang area : sleeping above the kitchen (5.10 R)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Took the ride on the top bolt a couple times after getting worked trying to fiddle in gear under the final roof. Clean fall, but exciting. A red alien or .5 C4 protects the higher part of the crux. No need to bring up big gear.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Excellent Adventure (5.7)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Rap stations are manky, but you can easily top this out in a single pitch and use one of the bomber fixed cable raps into the amphitheater.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Aloof Roof (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Pulling around the roof is fun, and significantly harder than Raise Hell, but easier than Super Direct. Small cams (purple/green/red C3s) sew up the upper section. Also make sure your second can climb the route before you head up. Rapping the route from the Breaking Rocks anchor to clean your gear may very well result in a stuck rope. Unless you're into making a jugging system out of runners and slogging up a 95' route to fix your idiot mistake, don't try to rap the route (ask me how I know.... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Kline Wall : One fingered pic-pocket (5.10c PG13)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, you can probably smear your way up without cranking on the mono pocket too hard.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Kline Wall : Skin the thief (5.10a PG13)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: I wonder if this and the route next to it (one fingered pick pocket) don't have swapped ratings. I got shut down at the crux of this and had to bail, while the onsight of the supposed 10c next to it felt easy by comparison.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Almost Seven (aka Golden Ea... (5.7) : Photo
By: Noah.J When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: I think the photo is taken from the Breaking Rocks anchor, making the line look different than when you're standing below it.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Head Jam (5.6)
By: Noah.J When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: The 5.5 in the Lambert and Shull guide is a ridiculous sandbag. The "head jam" was every bit of 5.7, even at Moores. I found it stouter than Golden Earring, and not far off Zoo View.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Devil in the White House : Devil in the White House (5.11- PG13)
By: Noah.J When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Dihedral Route (5.7)
By: Noah.J When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: You'll want 7 or 8 draws, the route goes up the left face of the dihedral until the roof, then you move slightly left and up for a couple more bolts until you hit the anchors. ~90ft. Really glad this got bolted, the thought of doing the lower section on gear is awful, lots of deceptively loose rock.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Ellie Reynolds Memorial But... (5.10-)
By: Noah.J When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: P1 isn't a full 120', more like 95, a 60m rope was perfect for descent. Nothing more than two or maybe three cams (0.75 and #1 C4s) are really helpful for the upper section of P1. Beautiful route with a fun, perfectly protected crux.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Turkey Shoot (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Beautiful route, but I think the "R" rating in the guidebook on the carolinaclimbers.org may be warranted. There is a tenuous move before you can clip the second bolt that if you blew might result in a groundfall.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill : Jowiki (5.10a)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: Great use of a short bit of rock to make a fun climb. The start is balancy and definitely the crux, if you can hit the first bolt comfortably you're in for a fun jug haul from there.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Sandstonia : Badass Tattoo (5.10b)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: I think this may be a harder climb for the shorter folks. I'm 6'2 and this felt closer to 10- / 9+ with a few decent reaches.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: The roof takes a bomber #4 C4 from below that protects the move beautifully. You might be able to wiggle a #3 in, or pull the roof and stick pro while you're doing it...but it was nice to have the bigger piece before pulling the roof.

Also, this really is a Moore's 5.7+...i.e. it's not unreasonable to advise a leader that they're going to want to be solid climbing 5.9s elsewhere before committing. That said, the cruxes all take good pro.


Location: NC : Carrboro/University Lake bo... : Jolly Green Boulder : For the Greater Good (V-easy)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Watch out for broken glass on and around this boulder. I tried to clean up what I saw, but there was a lot of little stuff that would be a nasty surprise to crimp onto.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Volunteer Wall : Darwin Loves You (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: Super pumpy for a 9+, but it's just on unreal jugs the whole time. Loved it.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : 27 Years of Climbing (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: One of the anchor bolts is loose in it's hole. The other one is still bomber, and the route has a piece of tape on the first bolt warning people, but just FYI.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8 Mod. Snow)
By: Noah.J When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: Super, super classic climb. The rock quality is poor down low, with significant rock fall danger. Higher up the climbing becomes beautiful and highly enjoyable.

For descent, contrary to the above, rap anchors are set for single ropes. Don't haul a second rope up, as the route is a rope dragging beast, and you're doing well if you can avoid getting your rope stuck at least once. There is only one section that requires any down climbing, and that's for less than 40' traversing to another rap ... more >>


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