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Breithorn ski descent


Member Since: Apr 12, 2012
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Noah.J
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 203 | Routes 14 | Areas 7 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 31 | Stars 77 | Ratings 19

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Pandora's Way (5.9)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: There's presently evidence of a chopped bolt about 20' up, a good bolt 40 feet up, and an anchor in the bowl. It's a spicy first 40 feet, you climb right through the ends of some small tree limbs just before the bolt. Maybe when it got rebolted it was done to simulate the previous tree limb pro?


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Father Knows Best (5.9+ R)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I second Chris's comments. It's very sustained 5.8 or 8+, with a serious runout from the last bolt to the anchor. You can't even see the last bolt from the anchor. Good candidate for a running belay.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Parking Lot : Thin to Win (5.10)
By: Noah.J When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: You can top the climb out by continuing up past the ledge on super juggy, freshly bolted 5.7. Bring 12 draws + an anchor setup. Get ready for some thrutching at the start.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain North Face
By: Noah.J When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: The 3rd edition Kelley Guide has them all. Keep an eye on out Amazon, sometimes it's stupid expensive ($900+), but then it will drop down to the ~$40-50 range. Currently it's $44, so I'd hop on it. Superior to the L and S guide in a lot of ways.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain North Face
By: Noah.J When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: The directions on the page here for the North Face aren't quite right. If you start at the summit and head directly north out onto the slab, trending slightly west along the treeline, the first visible anchors to rap down from are a pair of shiny stainless bolts over Zen Slab and Dark Star, the two furthest west routes. It is then a rope stretching 200' rap down to the anchors over Zen Slab, and a further two raps to some steepish 4th class slab where you can bushwack out to the road, or top b... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Good Samaritans (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I tried, but we all ended with the itchiness.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Good Samaritans (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch is money, but the first pitch could use some gardening (bring your gloves, the ivy is still there). If you have a #6 consider bringing it for the P1 wideness.


Location: NC : Cooks Wall : 'Tang area : sleeping above the kitchen (5.10 R)
By: Noah.J When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Took the ride on the top bolt a couple times after getting worked trying to fiddle in gear under the final roof. Clean fall, but exciting. A red alien or .5 C4 protects the higher part of the crux. No need to bring up big gear.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Excellent Adventure (5.7)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Rap stations are manky, but you can easily top this out in a single pitch and use one of the bomber fixed cable raps into the amphitheater.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Aloof Roof (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Pulling around the roof is fun, and significantly harder than Raise Hell, but easier than Super Direct. Small cams (purple/green/red C3s) sew up the upper section. Also make sure your second can climb the route before you head up. Rapping the route from the Breaking Rocks anchor to clean your gear may very well result in a stuck rope. Unless you're into making a jugging system out of runners and slogging up a 95' route to fix your idiot mistake, don't try to rap the route (ask me how I know.... more >>


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Almost Seven (aka Golden Ea... (5.7) : Photo
By: Noah.J When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: I think the photo is taken from the Breaking Rocks anchor, making the line look different than when you're standing below it.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Head Jam (5.6)
By: Noah.J When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: The 5.5 in the Lambert and Shull guide is a ridiculous sandbag. The "head jam" was every bit of 5.7, even at Moores. I found it stouter than Golden Earring, and not far off Zoo View.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Devil in the White House : Devil in the White House (5.10d)
By: Noah.J When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Dihedral Route (5.7)
By: Noah.J When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: You'll want 7 or 8 draws, the route goes up the left face of the dihedral until the roof, then you move slightly left and up for a couple more bolts until you hit the anchors. ~90ft. Really glad this got bolted, the thought of doing the lower section on gear is awful, lots of deceptively loose rock.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Ellie Reynolds Memorial But... (5.10-)
By: Noah.J When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: P1 isn't a full 120', more like 95, a 60m rope was perfect for descent. Nothing more than two or maybe three cams (0.75 and #1 C4s) are really helpful for the upper section of P1. Beautiful route with a fun, perfectly protected crux.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Turkey Shoot (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Beautiful route, but I think the "R" rating in the guidebook on the carolinaclimbers.org may be warranted. There is a tenuous move before you can clip the second bolt that if you blew might result in a groundfall.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Noah.J When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: The roof takes a bomber #4 C4 from below that protects the move beautifully. You might be able to wiggle a #3 in, or pull the roof and stick pro while you're doing it...but it was nice to have the bigger piece before pulling the roof.

Also, this really is a Moore's 5.7+...i.e. it's not unreasonable to advise a leader that they're going to want to be solid climbing 5.9s elsewhere before committing. That said, the cruxes all take good pro.


Location: NC : Carrboro/University Lake bo... : Jolly Green Boulder : For the Greater Good (V-easy)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Watch out for broken glass on and around this boulder. I tried to clean up what I saw, but there was a lot of little stuff that would be a nasty surprise to crimp onto.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Volunteer Wall : Darwin Loves You (5.9+)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: Super pumpy for a 9+, but it's just on unreal jugs the whole time. Loved it.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : 27 Years of Climbing (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: One of the anchor bolts is loose in it's hole. The other one is still bomber, and the route has a piece of tape on the first bolt warning people, but just FYI.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8 Mod. Snow)
By: Noah.J When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: Super, super classic climb. The rock quality is poor down low, with significant rock fall danger. Higher up the climbing becomes beautiful and highly enjoyable.

For descent, contrary to the above, rap anchors are set for single ropes. Don't haul a second rope up, as the route is a rope dragging beast, and you're doing well if you can avoid getting your rope stuck at least once. There is only one section that requires any down climbing, and that's for less than 40' traversing to another rap ... more >>


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Angel Creek Rocks : Main Rock : When Free Climbers Wore Ham... (5.8)
By: Noah.J When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, I'd venture that it doesn't get climbed very often though, judging by the amount of lichen I contended with. I rated it PG-13 only for the first 20 feet or so, as the rock is exfoliating fairly badly there. I had a (admittedly a borderline ripper piece) pull when the rock/lichen my feet were on decided it'd had enough. I was saved from a groundfall by a small nut a few feet below though, so the rock is good in places. Further up the rock quality becomes very good for the interior,... more >>


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : East Grapefruit Rocks : Crackland : Alaska Girls Do Crack (5.7)
By: Noah.J When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: There is also a good sized spruce tree you can tie off to and belay a second from.


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : East Grapefruit Rocks : Twin Towers : Sandbag (5.9)
By: Noah.J When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Very thoughtfully bolted. The pro is exactly where you want it. This was my first 5.9 sport lead, and I never felt like I was in a position for a high consequence fall. Good stuff! Also although there is still snow on the ground the area around Twin Towers is in great shape for climbing, with clean rock.


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