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Member Since: Aug 30, 2011
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact NickMartel


Point Rank: # 411
Total Points: 1,455
Last Year: 139
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has NickMartel been climbing?










Contributions


All 702 | Routes 54 | Areas 7 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 195 | Stars 128 | Ratings 72
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Black Lightning (5.9+)
By: NickMartel When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: FYI We recently encountered a rattlesnake on the approach in the area of the deer bones.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Black Lightning (5.9+)
By: NickMartel When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: So Yes there is a runout on 5.6-5.7 terrain but you could protect it if you feel the need, and as long as you don't jump off the ledge you will be OK.
Regarding the block... the wood handle of our hammer actually snapped trying to pry it off and I had to place the bolts holding the just head of the hammer in my hand. We tried yanking on it etc... and we could not remove it with what we had that first day, we have since returned with a crowbar and it is still not going anywhere. Kristina and I a... more >>


Location: UT : Photo
By: NickMartel When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: BS I'd Still clip it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Pleeze Don't Cry (5.10a V2)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I'm sure i am wrong but isn't 5.10a=V0/V0+ and V2=5.11s or so??? So was the 5.10a or the V2 a typo (maybe 5.11a/V2)?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Photo
By: NickMartel When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: :) HAHAHA


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Hot Dog (5.10)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: 9/9+ to the bulge at the top then it's on!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Nickel Puppies (5.9)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Super fun, full value, lots of sweet jams. Gave it 9+ keeping with the trad grade but the top move (going straight up, not right to the wide crack) is definitely the crux and probably closer to 10a for me (it seemed a touch easier than the crux of Hot Dog which is the same bulge only 2 feet left on slightly worse grips, but closer to a letter grade easier not a number grade easier). DO IT!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Dry Toolin' the Garden (5.7)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: If you brought your rack to do some of the mixed routes you may as well bring the finger size pieces. I left them on the ground but would have placed 2 pieces if I had them (up to 1.5") . Not needed, but helpful.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Brian,
"Guanica" is for sure to the left (down canyon/closer to the road)of "Limbomaniac". You may have climbed "Scorpion King", "Meteor Shower", etc (Forehand Wall)... thinking they were "Limbomaniac", "Unemployment Line", etc (Lefthand Wall proper)... If you were going off the guidebook STL-II it is an easy mistake to make as the Forehand Wall is the the first set of routes you find (3) but are not in the guide book (which shown "Limbomaniac" as the left-most/first route), then as you head far... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Bug Spring Wall
By: NickMartel When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: The hike out, timed, no stops, via drainage, at night with headlamps, hard march, was 58 minuets. I estimate that hike in (first time) via drainage took 1:10:00 with no stops. Beautiful secluded area. THANKS.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: On 11/30/2013 I heard that there were loose blocks on the 2ed pitch of this route. Between 11/30/13 and 1/10/14 Kristina and I went to this area on each of our outdoor climbing days to more thoroughly clean the 2ed pitch. However, because there were frequently other parties in the vicinity we were only able to actually work on cleaning the route on 2 occasions, which is why it took so long for us to finish. At this point I believe that the vast majority of the loose rock on pitch 2 has been remo... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Irma (5.9)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: A couple people have asked what this route is called so here it is. We did not publish it when we published the rest of the crag as we were unsatisfied with the bolt placement at the start, as some people have mentioned, and were hoping to figure out an alternative that would still protect the crux rock-over/up move at the start and keep you off the jagged blocks on the ground below it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Bebop (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: Although this is one of the easiest routes at the crag it is also one of the worst, whereas "Rocksteady" the version that goes left after the 1st bolt, is one of the best... So unless 5.8 is your limit I would give this route a pass.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat (5.9 PG13)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: The hope is that the upper of the 2 bolts will keep you off the ledge even if the rock that the red #3/orange #4 cam is placed in were to blow, which is somewhere between possible and likely, however this has not been tested thus the PG13...

You can also rap to the chains from the anchors of "Guanica" if you want to run a TR lap on it...

Be Safe and Enjoy!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat (5.9 PG13)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: GEAR BETA...

We used the following gear in this order from bottom to top:
Purple #8 Metolius cam: in starting hand/fist crack.
Black #5 Metolius cam: in same crack just before ledge.
Bolt
Bolt
Orange #3 or Red #4 Metolius cam: in second section of finger/crack, pray the rock holds.
Blue #9 BD nut: in pocket constriction thing above 2ed section of finger crack just after first jugs.
Chains.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Jason,
I am VERY sorry you had that experience. We did leave a few larger rock on some of the P2 ledges as we did not feel that we could safely trundle them without the possibility of damaging the hangers on P1. Kristina and I were actually on it this last weekend and did not find anything that was that big and loose but we all probably climb it differently, deeper or less deep in the chimney etc... I will get up there with a backpack and crow bar on a weekday ASAP.
I hope you still had some fun... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Soldier's Revenge (5.7+)
By: NickMartel When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Short but so much fun. This is the route that makes it worth the hike to this crag IMHO.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Under The Witch's Nose (5.9+)
By: NickMartel When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: So if anyone knows the "real" name and FA party for this let me know and I will make the appropriate changes... A fun route and worth doing, especially if you brought a rack with you to do Pakistani.... or to climb on Troll Wall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Hidden Jewels
By: NickMartel When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Yes the approach is uphill but its a nice enough place, and the hand/fist crack to the right of "The Crescent" is amazing if short. It provides the rare (on lemmon) joy of climbing and entire pitch using nothing but jams, and damn they are nice feeling jams.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Regarding the route. The crux is getting to the 1st bolt, but solid throughout. Good hand but tricky feet. Spot your climber till they get the 1st bolt clipped.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Bruce: I have put up a few routes on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ and was given a bunch of the EXACT same hooks (china stamp etc...). I really liked them and how easy they were to use until one of the gates got DESTROYED by just pulling a rope (that was a bit twisted) through it, I still have that one it if you want to see it, but regardless I no longer endorse them. Food for thought....
Just my $0.02....
Thanks anyways, it is the thought that counts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Lambada (5.10-)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Fun 2-move wonder! Will probably be easier next time/with better beta.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: If at the top you take the left side (up the gully/seam), it's 5.7, direct is solid 5.8(+) IMHO. Worth an extra half star (up to 1.5 *s) if done directly.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Found belay device Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe it and where you left it, and I will get it back to you... otherwise, BOOTY!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Belay device found Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe the device, biner, markings, etc. and it's yours.... I just moved here from Tucson, AZ, did the 1st Flatiron Saturday, found a cam, and then found this belay device Sunday... So far I am 2 for 2 in terms of finding booty every time I go climbing here in CO.... Hopefully it continues!!!

Also what is the name (if it has a name) of the big bloc down in the canyon directly below this wall? Thx.


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