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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the route. The crux is getting to the 1st bolt, but solid throughout. Good hand but tricky feet. Spot your climber till they get the 1st bolt clipped.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bruce: I have put up a few routes on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ and was given a bunch of the EXACT same hooks (china stamp etc...). I really liked them and how easy they were to use until one of the gates got DESTROYED by just pulling a rope (that was a bit twisted) through it, I still have that one it if you want to see it, but regardless I no longer endorse them. Food for thought....
Just my $0.02....
Thanks anyways, it is the thought that counts.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Lambada (5.10-)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun 2-move wonder! Will probably be easier next time/with better beta.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If at the top you take the left side (up the gully/seam), it's 5.7, direct is solid 5.8(+) IMHO. Worth an extra half star (up to 1.5 *s) if done directly.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found belay device Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe it and where you left it, and I will get it back to you... otherwise, BOOTY!!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: NickMartel When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belay device found Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe the device, biner, markings, etc. and it's yours.... I just moved here from Tucson, AZ, did the 1st Flatiron Saturday, found a cam, and then found this belay device Sunday... So far I am 2 for 2 in terms of finding booty every time I go climbing here in CO.... Hopefully it continues!!!
Also what is the name (if it has a name) of the big bloc down in the canyon directly below this wall? Thx.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3-2013 this now has a 60' 7 bolt 2ed pitch that goes at an exposed 5.8+ (9-). The 2ed pitch has the same character as the 1st and is recommended. Thanks to Jackson for spending a day hanging out on this getting hit by small falling rocks, and getting P2 done before I left Tucson! BRING HELMETS!!! Enjoy!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Mountains : The "Gimme Some" Dome
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: SO, the climbing here is far from spectacular. KB and I put this up the summer that Mt Lemmon was closed due to fire danger, so keep that in mind. Its a fun place to mess around, but yes every hold may fall off, and yes extending the anchors will help save your rope. I usually bring my "working" rope here which is already beat up. This is also a fun place to practice with your aid hooks in a low-risk environment.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Meteor Shower (5.10-)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt is still there, just missing its hanger. Obviously the start protects well with gear, however since the bolt it already there it may as well have a hanger on it as you should have either the hanger-less bolt or a piece of gear clipped as the crack and 1st bulge are the crux. Also the little horn-thing you use to surmount the bulge directly above the crack snapped in my hand and is wiggling. I forgot to try and kick it off on my way down but it made an audible snap and is now loose. Be S... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Little Meteor Shower (5.9+)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux it the 1st bulge, followed by the 2ed bulge. Harder than Meteor Shower IMHO. Fun cruising above those initial cruxes.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : The Technodrome (5.10c/d)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So someone put an X on a rock that you would think is loose looking at it. IT IS NOT COMING OFF. We went at it with a crowbar, hammer, 5' re-bar, mini sledge hammer and it is not going anywhere, and went at it for round two last week, still not coming off. We washed the X off as best we could but you can kinda still see it. The only way anything is coming off is if the whole upper half of the tower falls off. Also this is one of the better, harder, most physical routes on this wall. Enjoy.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Midget Magic (5.8)
By: NickMartel When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a lot of fun on this. The others in my party traversed right onto the hanging slab below the last 2 bolts. I couldn't see it that way and followed crack up to the roof and then traversed right on hand and fist jams really fun like that IMHO. If only the top of the roof were not so smooth :)...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Michelangelo (5.10a)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed your name, and we have knocked off 95% of the loose stuff at this point.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : OK Corral (5.7)
By: NickMartel When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2ed pitch is AWESOME. Super fun albeit a bit lichen covered. If you are doing it as 2 pitches with a hanging belay you may want to traverse left to the anchors of the next route over to have more room at the belay (we did not do this but wished we had). Next time it's going down as a single rope-stretching pitch!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: NickMartel When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After getting feedback from some older and wiser climbers than us Kristina and I decided to take it down until we finished camouflaging all the hardware.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: NickMartel When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a new area low on the mountain where the rock is much more crumbly and so it still has some loose rock.
WEAR A HELMET!!!
Nothing big has come off for at least a month but small pebbles still come off almost every pitch so WEAR A HELMET and knock em down!
ENJOY!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Mountains : The "Gimme Some" Dome
By: NickMartel When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cleaned a bunch more loose rock off. Its getting there...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Jailhouse Rock
By: NickMartel When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here in the desert orange peels do not bio-degrade like they would in wetter climates, instead they dry up and harden and then just sit there for a LONG TIME (I believe like up to decades!). Please pack out your orange peels like you would any other trash. Yesterday at Jailhouse Rock I had to pick up and pack out the peels of probably 10 oranges that people had left behind in the canyon. The belay area of Jailhouse is relatively small and Jailhouse is a VERY popular area so human impact on the l... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : St. Valentines Day Massacre (5.8-)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the hangers (1st and 3ed?/4th?) are loose. Not dangerously so but could use tightening. They have female hex heads that require an allen wrench not a normal wrench to tighten.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Mug Shot (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best gear is #1 (blue) TCU left of the block and #13 BD stopper (red) in the slot at the top of the bulge. Both are BOMBER! As good as bolts! Can also get a small nut above the 3ed bolt but the energy/time is better spent running it out and being sure to get to the chains.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: NickMartel When: Jan 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So how long does the drive take from northern Tucson (like Oracle/Ina) to Homestead?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cleaned even more dirt out. One more brushing/cleaning session and it should be spotless. 2 golf ball sized pieces of rock came off too so belayer should still wear a helmet. Changed the hangers to the correct camo colors.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Pindering to the Masses (5.8-)
By: NickMartel When: Dec 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, grade is for the start, backs off a little after 10' but sustained at 7+. I stayed left of the bolts the whole way.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8+)
By: NickMartel When: Dec 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We used a nut tool and pecker to remove the last of the vegetation and 95% of the remaining dirt, but if you find some pull it down/brush it off. Belayer should still wear a helmet until this sees a bit more traffic. We also paved the mud floor of the cave with rocks and then padded with bear grass, NICE!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Pindering to the Masses (5.8-)
By: NickMartel When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went up there yesterday when I had 20 min to spare waiting for my 2ed group of partners to show up. Couldn't get on this or Guanica because there were parties 2 deep on both of them. I have never seen hairpin so busy. Talk about the masses. Cool though. I heard I missed you guys by just a few min. Funny name... I heard people liked both of them.
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