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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Aug 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim, reflecting his true generous nature, only posts our find of the rope and gear, but neglects to mention the troubing loss of his convertible pant's left zip-off leg somewhere along the descent. Fellow readers, I implore you to return this lonely piece of nylon to him, should you chance upon it. The poor guy was inconsolable once he realized he lost it.
Our semi-athletic team was slowed considerably by 3 factors. 1) Tim's athletic and I'm not. 2) On the hike out, Tim threatened to set fire ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Feb 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skylight area: Fresh footprints over by the Ribbon. whoa! Who is going to post that route? Skylight. Pitch 1 is thin, doable but M5. Pitch 3 is way fat but funky ice. No spelunking here. Choppo's looked chopped out. ACDC looked sunbaked. Slip Slidin looked fat. Slippery when wet looked decent. Chock up another one looked fat. Chockstone Chimney looked decent. Heard some good avalanches! Supposedly 5-10" of snow expected tonight but skies are clear at 9pm. The Vic's hottub is hot!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Feb 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nothing below Aqua Velva is in. Cascade Falls only formed for 2d this year, currently not in. There is a new area just upstream from the schoolroom, named Graduate School with a few limited new WI3-4 lines. Some guy in the hottub at the Vic says the avvy danger is very high on Red Mt Pass. Warm temps here.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Forbes Route (West Approach... (5.6)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Sep 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, temps are subjective, aren't they? Babo will probably be warmer than a Colorado 14er and colder than Mendoza Canyon. Excluding a winter storm, I would anticipate summit temps in the 30s-40s (~20 degrees cooler than Tucson). However, even with recent good weather, snow and ice can linger on the Great Ramp and the technical pitch. It's not uncommon for winter parties to pack ice axes and crampons and use them. Adds some spice to desert climbing...
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Forbes Route (West Approach... (5.6)
By: Nick Kuhn When: May 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: For some reason, Bob's comments on this route show up under the Homepage's Comments link, but not under this route description. His own trip report is an excellent, thorough description of the approach, hike, and climb, especially under less than ideal conditions. Lots of pics, too. Here's the link: http://www.climbaz.com/climbs/baboquivari/forbes.html
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Ben There, Dun That (5.7)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Apr 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Kenyon and Vincent for clarifying this route. E-beers are on me.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : Resume Builder (5.8)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Mar 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small/medium nuts can protect the runouts.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hunchback Pinnacle : Steve's Arete (5.11a)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Feb 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Sep 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating.
A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : East Gully (5.4)
By: Nick Kuhn When: Sep 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/20/03, the left side of the bottom of E gully is caked in ice and snow, with minimal sun exposure. Also, there is scattered snow in The Gash (from 1" to 3'), making the approach slick and dangerous in spots, especially near the top. On the other hand, the marmot activity is low...our lunches were left untouched.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Steel Crazy (5.9)
By: Nick Kuhn When: May 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I tried rapping this route with a single 60m rope and wound up having to reach down to clip anchors while hanging on the end of the rope. Then the rope didn't reach the next anchors so we had to wrap a rock fin with some webbing and lower off that. Then the rope got stuck and I had to reclimb the pitch to free it. All this while the sun was setting and our fingers were getting numb. Walk off the route or bring another rope to double-rope rap.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Nick Kuhn When: May 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you decide to lead this as a trad climb, and you clipped that first bolt with a standard draw, don't forget to use runners for your gear. A fall could lateral-pull your "bombproof" nuts and cams right out and then we'd have to carry your mangled remains down that slippery trail in front of all those gawking tourists in the gambling busses and subsequently cause a rollover accident like the one that occurred on a weekend morning this past March in plain view of the crag. Treat that highway lik... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Nick Kuhn When: May 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux probably lies in a left-facing dihedral on the third pitch. This 15ft. section should be easily recognizable with the labored breathing and the two fixed nuts that were there as of late August 2002.
The last pitch is easy but memorable...truly spectacular.
Check those rappel pins before you weight them. Albert Ellingwood himself may have bashed those in....
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : South Ridge
By: Nick Kuhn When: May 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with David above. The route is superb when dry and provides an exciting, fun scramble. Camping at 4th of July mines enhances the experience.
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