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Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.


Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Nick Stayner

Nick Stayner
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Point Rank: # 216
Total Points: 2,590
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 1
73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2125 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 72 | Page Improvements | Comments 315 | Posts 762 | Stars 710 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Don't get too focused on jamming near the top of this one. I found a nice crimpy sidepull on the right side of the crack to be very useful right before the crack steepens and eases off.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Awesome climb! Though I really wanted to stem my left foot on the low angle left wall, I found this made moving up a LOT more awkward. So best to stay straight in 'til the top, at least for me.

Also, I ignored the ample face features and stupidly tried left-side in at the top OW and got throttled. Right side in, using the great crystals for left foot & hand and working the arm bar/heel-toe combo with the right side made this feel spot on for 5.9.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Sustained? There's maybe one 5.10 move on this... don't get so locked into the crack. Search for the ample face features and high step through the crux! Excellent climb.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: For good free camping, try Storm Castle Road (north of the climbing) or Portal Creek Road (south of the climbing). These options are currently inaccessible due to fires, however.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Mill Creek : Thunderbolt Buttress : Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Excellent climb. Agree with the above statements. Definitely not .10d though.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Want the super-secret beta for pitch one? Go sport climbing and learn to high step!

Both pitches of this climb are excellent.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Save The Best For Last (5.11)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: Yes


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone done the Hooven-Leo as a variation start to this route?


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hot Lixx Family Fun Center : I was a Teen Age Ronald McD... (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Tough pulls for a 10! Great holds though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hot Lixx Family Fun Center : Tear the Roof Off the Suckk... (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Not super important, but this route is double posted in this area. Just trying to keep things tidy!


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : One Way Out (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Excellent movement & fun crux, though (like its neighbor to the right) needs some traffic to clean some of the flaky feet up a bit. And yikes... there's some sharp stuff up there if you don't find the right holds through the crux!
Three star route in two star shape. If more people climb it, it will shape up nicely.


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Poke in Your Pocket (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: A little bit easier than its neighbor to the right. Good fun!


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Cowpoke (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Harder than Bury the Hatchet & not as good of a warmup due to a short, sharp, tweaky crux.

Still, a fun climb for later in the day.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Acid Mother Temple (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: This route is already in the database- Acid Mother Temple/Face Melter Roof above.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : The interesting problem bel... (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: That is one of the funniest things I've read on here. Thanks Brian.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hot Lixx Family Fun Center : Shaft's Big Score (5.11c/d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Thought this one was going to be all over after the dyno at the bottom... still a couple of hard moves though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill V... (5.12c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Totally classic!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Raven Wall : No More Florida Red-Necks (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: It's kind of ridiculous this route has the bomb rating... it's super short but still has great holds and movement on clean rock (by Tensleep standards anyway). This and the others are definitely worth doing if you're in the area looking to prolong your shady AM crag session a little bit longer.


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Bury the Hatchet (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Classic climbing.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Weather Or Not... (5.10)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: Looks really good guys. I'll definitely be hitting it up if I make it in there this summer.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Lacy Panties (5.10c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Wow Gittins... strong words there! You sure you want to be so bold?

Kidding.... both fantastic climbs and totally different character. There is a small TCU placement before hitting the 1st bolt.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Leigh Creek : The Godfather Boulder : As Wicked As It Seems (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: I'd recommend staying to the left at the first and second bolts to avoid some savagely sharp holds. Not the holds themselves but pad-ripping crystals inside the pockets.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Munitions Roof : Pump Me Like a Shotgun (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Dirty start is fun and does not detract from the 4-star quality of this excellent route. It's limestone everybody!


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Diesel Driver (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: I guess I've always just pulled the roof and used a newer set of anchors out to the right (on top of the route If Peterbuilts Could Prance which also makes for a fun TR lap).


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Diesel Driver (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Not sure if Ty (the one posting above, not the OP) is thinking of the same route... I have always climbed the route and easily lowered/ran TR laps with a 70m rope and maybe even a 60. Maybe not 70, but most certainly not 135 feet. No need for 2 ropes.


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