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Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.


Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Nick Stayner


Point Rank: # 201
Total Points: 2,582
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2083 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 317 | Posts 730 | Stars 701 | Ratings 89
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Is it just really smoky/early or were you guys up there in the midst of a storm?


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Welcome to Billings (5.8+) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Wow. I don't even know what to say!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: I thought I heard something about how the first ascentionists wanted to rate this thing .11b. Then Bachar did it and told them it wouldn't be rated any harder than .10d in the Valley.... and that's the grade that stuck.

Might not be true, but it's kind of funny and I heard it from a couple of Bachar's pals when I lived out there.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Hanoi Hilton (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Bryson, just curious which .11ds in the Mondo you're thinking of. I thought this felt on par with Shaft's Big Score, Air Guitar, Resurrection of a Solid Gold Rock Star etc.... easier than Captain Insano or Pump Me Like a Shotgun I guess.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Werewolves of London (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Nice and long, with early shade (along with Euro Trash Girl).


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Center El Shinto (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Pretty darn sustained with a definite crux. 12 bolts + 2 for anchors.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Dope Shinto (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Great climbing. More powerful, bigger moves than Center Shinto. Probably 12a.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Drop of a hat... (5.11b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Hell yeah! NC just annexed Warbonnet I heard? :) Great work, quickly seeing how a high camp below Warbonnet would be a worthy base for a trip all its own next year!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Short Wall : Shogun (5.10c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Great fun. Pretty easy for the 10c Vedauwoo grade?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Short Wall : Misfits (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Super classic, full on rounded edge lieback to crux flop to the top. The corner that makes up the first part of the pitch is CLASSIC!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Pussy Control (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Agreed.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Foreign Territory : Walking up to Zion (5.10)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic climbing, mostly hands with a few great fingerlocks, some fun stemming, and big reaches. A giveaway at the grade (for Vedauwoo anyway).


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Foreign Territory : Wild Thing (5.10b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Fun with a crux that's a trip to figure out! A buddy of ours did better right-side in than we did left-side in....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : End of the Road Rock : Women's Work (5.10+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Pretty damn hard down low!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Like a harder version of Outer Limits in Yosemite.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Brown Cow (5.11)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Hell yeah guys! Looks like a fantastic climb. Glad your two trips treated you so well this year Nathan!


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Cheating with good technique maybe :). While it may be semantics as you say, I think the grading feature and route discussions are the coolest, most useful features of Mountain Project.

I think your description is great and does justice to one of Bozeman's best climbs. It was also quite a memorable pitch for me as it was one of my first 5.10 trad leads almost 10 years ago! I'm not trying to trash talk, just throwing another opinion out there.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Mega classic, one of the nicest granite crack pitches I've ever climbed (or seen). Enduro Corner training?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire : Wrist Ranger (5.9-)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Agreed, mostly a fist crack with a couple offwidth-type moves. Great climb!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Awesome, awesome pitch. It blows my mind how many classics there are on this crag. Great right-side in blue collar offwidthing to an awesome switcharoo to left side in jamming and liebacking about halfway up.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Don't get too focused on jamming near the top of this one. I found a nice crimpy sidepull on the right side of the crack to be very useful right before the crack steepens and eases off.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Awesome climb! Though I really wanted to stem my left foot on the low angle left wall, I found this made moving up a LOT more awkward. So best to stay straight in 'til the top, at least for me.

Also, I ignored the ample face features and stupidly tried left-side in at the top OW and got throttled. Right side in, using the great crystals for left foot & hand and working the arm bar/heel-toe combo with the right side made this feel spot on for 5.9.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Sustained? There's maybe one 5.10 move on this... don't get so locked into the crack. Search for the ample face features and high step through the crux! Excellent climb.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: For good free camping, try Storm Castle Road (north of the climbing) or Portal Creek Road (south of the climbing). These options are currently inaccessible due to fires, however.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Mill Creek : Thunderbolt Buttress : Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Excellent climb. Agree with the above statements. Definitely not .10d though.


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