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Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.


Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Nick Stayner


Point Rank: # 201
Total Points: 2,582
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2083 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 317 | Posts 730 | Stars 701 | Ratings 89
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Bazooka Face (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Outstanding climbing the whole way, reachy juggy pockets to challenging bulge moves to techy upper face. So much fun.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Born Again (5.11+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Great climbing, totally worth it.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Downed Tree Wall : Hail Mary (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Awesome pitch, steep and poweful crux. I left a biner on the second or third bolt to prevent a big swing into the tree when cleaning. It'll probably get bootied but just in case someone reads this, it's pretty useful on the way down!


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : The Searchers (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Nice positive holds on this bad boy. Fun climbing!


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Hole in the Wall (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climbing. One of the best at the cliff and on par with the best dolomite routes in Wyo (along with most other routes at this cliff!).


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: So just to clarify... are we talking OLD #4 camalots (new #5) for the crux pitch or NEW #4 camalots (old #3.5)?


Location: MT : Bridger Range : Ainger Lake : Cold Forged Steel (5.10b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Let's see, Grade IV standards... North Ridge of the Grand Teton, any route on the Incredible Hulk, Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite, East Buttress of El Cap, Pingora's Northeast Face... and Cold Forged Steel!!

Commitment grades do seem meaningless anymore with people commonly climbing grade VI in a day. For people who do care about such things, grade IV does seem a little gratuitous by about two levels. It's a grade II.

Great little adventure if my memory serves ... more >>


Location: WY : Lamburger Rock : Taurine Corridor : Fight or Flight (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Obviously awesome from the ground. Stacked, bouldery, multiple roof pulls, great holds and well- bolted.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: mid July-August would be a good bet.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : The Cube : Uber Ass (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Hey gordwah.... if you're going to give a route a bomb rating, at least make a comment or two regarding why the route is so awful! Otherwise it looks like you just got your feelings hurt because the route was harder than you though it would be.

For what it's worth, I felt the route was spot-on at 12a, even on par with the grade at other areas (Tensleep, Lander, Natural Bridge, etc...)


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Upper Blacktail Butte
By: Nick Stayner When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: PSA- Though you drive through no entrance stations, Blacktail Butte is still in Grand Teton National Park. Meaning no dogs, on-leash or otherwise. To even have to say this seems ridiculous, considering there are numerous signs that you must walk past indicating that dogs aren't allowed.

Climbers, please remember that your actions don't just represent your own good (or bad) behavior. Like it or not, you're representing our entire user group.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Buck Mt. : East Face (3rd) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Wow, that looks like May of this season. 2011 was a good one.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers
By: Nick Stayner When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: Lee- the camping options are obvious once you descend into the Cirque.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Chronic (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Wow, when did posting pages directly out of the guidebook become OK?


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Standard Route (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this!


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Commercial Business Plannin...
By: Nick Stayner When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: My 2 cents as someone who has been climbing in Sinks since I was in high school- this seems totally unnecessary. Like Vance said, the canyon is doing just fine on its own.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Nick Stayner When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Chris- lots of good climbing days in May, but also lots of good storms that stick around for a couple days or more at a time. Also, the air temperature can be quite cold still, and remember that the majority of cliffs at Tensleep dip into the shade ~1PM. Depending on the length of your trip, you will probably get some climbable days in there. But if I were you, I'd strongly consider heading to Lander, where Sinks Canyon provides sunny sport climbing on dolomite similar to Tensleep. Plus you can ... more >>


Location: WY : Cody : The Bridge Bands : Cowboy Wall : Chief of Scouts (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.

I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing... more >>


Location: WY : Cody : The Bridge Bands : Cowboy Wall : Chief of Scouts (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Wow 45/46 rate this thing 4 stars... gotta be one of the highest quality ratings on Mountain Project! So much fun.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Soft in the Middle (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: The "tombstone" has been flexible for a long time. That would be a horrifying hold to have rip, especially since you really have to yard on the thing.... and then stand on it too!


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Bowling for Buicks (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: re: Bull in a China Closet- I tried it once a couple years ago and didn't like it near as much as the others on the wall. Thought the bolting was a little off setting up some really odd clips. Never got back on it.

Others seem to like it though!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Scott, I'm not serious- my comment was tongue in cheek, more poking fun at Montana ethics than at you.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, just reread my post and it sounded like I was calling you out! Didn't mean for that, just wanted to make a note in the big overview area about the Meadows/Bowling Alley raps being doable w/ a single 70 since it's the most common descent route for people summiting the Tower.

But I second your comment about not relying on Zach's beta for pitch/rap lengths. Awesome historical photos, decent beta photos, but man, as a guidebook... that thing just falls somewhat short.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Just thought I'd add this here since it's the most general spot for Devils Tower beta. Unlike what Brian says above, the Meadows/Bowling Alley rap route can be done with a single 70, off of bomber, obvious two or three bolt anchors. Zach's guidebook topos don't show all the available stations.


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