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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Pembroke
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll flesh this description out a bit after a few more visits, hopefully this season. If anybody wants to do a better job sooner, just let me know and I'll take this page down
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Come the Dervish (5.10c R)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was supposedly cleaned for the first ascent using a knife nicked from Pete's Eats
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to see Shrewsbury (also my hometown) get a mention on here! Did you ever climb at Nesscliffe, Chris?
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : Castle Rock of Triermain
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately a large crack formed around July 2011, effectively detaching a "bungalow-sized" block from the top of the North Crag. The situation is being monitored but climbing is not advised at present. See the BMC or UKC for more details
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : ScawFell
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the conventional spelling would be Scafell (or Sca Fell), although the pronunciation is closer to how you'd say Scaw Fell
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Pleasley Vale
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please can the location of this crag be updated? I'd do it myself, but it looks like only the person who initially added the area or a mod can update it now.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Dreadnought (5.10)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The base of the route can also be reached by a 55m abseil (as for Moonraker). This provides a high-tide approach, but you'll still want calm seas. The cliff is very overhanging, so make sure you start swinging unless you want to prusik back up or swim in to the starting ledge!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe the description could be updated to mention the limestone sea cliffs of the Dorset and South Devon coast, culm coast of North Devon, inland granite outcrops on Dartmoor, inland limestone such as Avon and Cheddar (plus other, smaller Mendips venues)... I also think the Wye Valley should be moved into this area, rather than being on its own
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Scottish winter climbing : ... : Zero Gully (WI3 R)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scottish grade V,4. This reflects well the bold (British for runout) nature of the climb
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Andalucia : El Chorro : ... : Amptrax (5.10-)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is now bolted all the way to the top of the wall, though it may take a slightly different line than the original route. You can rap on a 70m rope from the top of P8, but if you've made it all the way up there it would be a shame not to do the walk off!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Welsh winter climbing : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, really! It was a great day - one of those rare occasions where the Snowdonia summits are clear. Unfortunately I can't claim credit for the photo (but I did have permission to upload it!)
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Scottish winter climbing : ... : Point Five Gully (WI4)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scottish grade V,5 - a much better summary of the route than WI anything!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Scottish winter climbing : ... : Tower Ridge (WI2 M2 Mod. Snow)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scottish grade IV,3. Not technically hard, but a long committing route. Not really sure how to grade it in US terms, so apologies for the guesswork above! Any better suggestions accepted
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Scottish winter climbing : ... : Orion Direct (WI3+)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scottish winter grade V,5. The day I did it, it was pretty stepped out in parts, and there was plenty of ice. Felt more like IV,4.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : West Buttress Eliminate (5.10+)
By: Nick Russell When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, it does look pretty similar in some respects. Perhaps HBR is less wet though! For aficionados of this style of climb, there's another one on Lundy, though I can't remember the name right now...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : Ball Bearing (5.10a)
By: Nick Russell When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful not to follow the line on the topo in the Wolverine guide too closely. It will take you directly up the first pitch rather than to the right at the horizontal (mentioned earlier as a 10b variation), and then directly through the roof at the start of pitch 2. I did this "variation" on pitch 2 and, although probably not harder than 10a (maybe 10b tops) the holds are gritty and it doesn't protect well.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom
By: Nick Russell When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @Devilesslover: the reason they haven't (hadn't) been added is that people haven't got round to doing them yet. As you discovered, anybody can add a route, so all it takes is for a few people who climb regularly in the area to start logging on here after a day's climbing and adding the routes they did that day. As for the grades, I have raised the question on the forums, but for now just go with a conversion table. These are pretty good for going between French sport and YDS, but do break down a... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Devil's Slide
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Blocks at the bottom of the slide can be reached mid-tide and below. At high tide, it's possible to traverse in at a break about 8m up the slab. If there's a bit swell going, you're best off starting from the halfway break - the waves can wash a long way up the slab!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : West Buttress Eliminate (5.10+)
By: Nick Russell When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: British trad grade E3 5c in the current comprehensive guide.
E2 5c in "100 Classic Climbs", 1988 (though this may just be a way of getting a fantastic route into a selective guidebook that has imposed an upper limit of E2)
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : WildCat Crag
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the GPS coords are the wrong way around in this. That is, it appears just off East Africa on the map... Also, is it easy/possible for an admin to move this area into "England" rather than being in the top level page?
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Location: AL : Sand Rock : The Pinnacle : Comfortably Numb (5.9+)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! I also managed to find a small TCU placement part way up the slab but it wouldn't have been enough to prevent a ground fall. Make sure you find the fixed pin before pulling the bulge!
The second half is quite sporty in nature: steep climbing on big holds with most protection coming from slung horns.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : Avon Gorge
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've just moved to Bristol and am trying to build up the catalogue for the nearby areas. As such these records are very incomplete and any help would be much appreciated!
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