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Starting out on the crux traverse <br /> <br />Photo by Alastair Begley - <a href='http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.masterplan-photography.co.uk</a>


Member Since: Sep 1, 2011
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Nick Russell


Point Rank: # 247
Total Points: 2,035
Last Year: 1,165
Last 30 Days: 56
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Where has Nick Russell been climbing?










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All (365) | Routes (68) | Areas (72) | Photos (50) | Comments (45) | Posts (39) | Stars (84) | Ratings (7)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : North West Highlands : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Yes, I love the North West highlands! One of my most memorable winter climbing weekends was a mission up to Torridon. We got 2 days climbing on Liatach, for about 24 hours total driving time but it was worth it!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Valkyrie (5.8)
By: Nick Russell When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Rob reminds me of last time I was at the Roaches. We look over to the route, to see a team attempting to climb it on a single rope, running both pitches together! The leader had placed copious protection on the first pitch, and was starting the downclimb on the flake, yelling to his belayer for slack (which, needless to say, was not forthcoming!).

I wanted to fetch my popcorn and sit back in a deckchair, but my partner was kinder and offered some friendly advice on how it might be better to pit... more >>


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: But not for long. With privatisation in the pipeline, the old Sea Kings will be retired and the air force/navy will cease to perform the rescues. It's supposed to remain free of charge for the injured, but time will tell how long that will last.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: The chain in the photo is climbed by Snakes and Ladders, "Welsh via ferrata"


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I'm surprised he's doing this with a harness on! I had to take mine off to even have a chance.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Anglesey : ... : A Dream of White Horses (5.9+)
By: Nick Russell When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Brad, I haven't done the route so I can't say exactly what I'm looking for (if I could say exactly, I'd just write it!)... number of pitches and total length are already on there, but that's just objective details. I guess for a route with a reputation like this, I expect a description to inspire. A bit of evocative prose about the situation, some of the history perhaps? From what I've heard the climbing itself (as you say) isn't spectacular, but it does break through some very unlikely terrain.... more >>


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Anglesey : ... : A Dream of White Horses (5.9+)
By: Nick Russell When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: I haven't done this route, but I know its status and I think I can comment on the description here. It's a must-do, super-classic, adventurous sea cliff route, picking an intricate and very committing line through some very intimidating ground... and all people see on here is "traverse route"? I've written more about 4-bolt sport routes than that! Please can somebody who has done it write something more evocative? This page just doesn't do it justice


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: When I did it (September 2013) there were also two good nuts. All the tat seemed pretty new.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Them (5.11a)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: British grade E3 6a. The crux is soft for 6a, but it's pretty sustained up to there and comes well above gear.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Mercury Direct (5.10b)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: E2 5b. Bold on the second pitch, but technically not hard for E2. If the commitment adds to the adjectival grade it's top-end E2, otherwise maybe a bit soft.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Shamrock (5.7)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: VS 4c in British grades.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Albion (5.7)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: VS 4c. Fair for the grade, but it will feel harder than 4c if you try to climb the slab rather than the corner on pitch 2.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Albacore (5.8+)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: HVS 5a in local currency. Solid for the grade, but will feel easier if you're good (i.e. better than me) at jamming!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : American Beauty (5.8)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: British HVS 5a. A bit soft, but intimidating: there's no easier way out!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Hot Rod (5.8)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: British grade VS 4c, but top-end. In fact, maybe a bit of a sandbag, VS+ 5a?


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Photo
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: At 173m above sea level, the old light (built 1819) was the highest in Britain. Unfortunately, this led to it being frequently shrouded in fog and invisible from the sea! Two new lighthouses in the North and South now service the island.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Road Runner (5.10a)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: A bit unbalanced, with the second pitch being quite a lot harder, and very different character. More commonly done as just the first pitch, then rapping off the fixed 'anchor'. Stiff VS 4c that way (5.7/8?) with a sting in the tail.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Battery Cliff
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: The scramble down the South side (referred to in the 2008 guide as the "easy way down") is not all that bad. It doesn't descend the gully, rather staying on the northerly spur, just skirting the top of the cliff. Downclimbing and traversing of about 5.4 standard is necessary but only in short steps. This approach allows access to all climbs on the South side of the Battery Cliff at most states of the tide (depending on the swell).


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Devil's Slide (5.6 PG13)
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: An alternative to the poor belay at the top of P2 is to move right and belay to the abseil block. Contrary to Euan's experience, I didn't have too much trouble with running the first two pitches together but I did take quite a direct line with very few runners...


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom
By: Nick Russell When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: farkas, I am also working on it but it's a slow process! I too prefer the mp format over ukc for route descriptions, but only if done well. I wouldn't want to see a proliferation of 2-line, uninspiring route descriptions!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Croton Oil (5.9)
By: Nick Russell When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Bolts on natural grit? You'd get lynched!

edit: that said, I think there's a couple of rap bolts on top of Froggatt pinnacle...


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Saul's Crack (5.9)
By: Nick Russell When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Maybe it's just that my jamming is a bit rusty, but I definitely found the bulge beneath the roof to be the crux. The roof itself was gymnastic, but pretty straightforward.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Clwyd Limestone
By: Nick Russell When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: I climbed here for the first time recently, on the way back from Snowdonia. It's a really beautiful location, and despite it being a sunny weekend there were very few people there. I would highly recommend a visit!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Flying Buttress Direct (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Nick Russell When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I still laugh when I think back to missing that crucial cam placement. It would have been quite a nasty fall if I'd blown the moves above the roof.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia
By: Nick Russell When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: There is indeed a guidebook now, which I just got my hands on. The huge dihedral could have been Red Square? (E1/2 or 5.9/10- ish) Hopefully I'll get to climb there some time this summer and post some routes here.


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