Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
me (about to sneeze)


Member Since: Nov 13, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Nelson Day


Point Rank: # 478
Total Points: 1,253
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nelson Day been climbing?










Contributions


All 1291 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 207 | Page Improvments | Comments 153 | Posts 115 | Stars 501 | Ratings 309
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: New trip report:
Red Dihedral Trip Report


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Wet Dreams (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Quite the physical route. The slot you get into is slanting towards the ground. You feel like you are constantly fighting the slot from spitting you out. I was breathing VERY hard after I got to the end of the finger rail traverse. Super fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Trip report for Inti Watana to Resolution Arete linkup:

joshuatreeclimbinglifeguides.com/blog/trip-report-inti-watan>>>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Mercedes (5.11-)
By: Nelson Day When: Feb 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I didn't manage to find any pro. Soloing to the first bolt is def. R. Didn't see really much for gear options, but some may exist. My R rating is only for the beta I used. A tricam looked like it would have fit well in a pod near the bottom. I didn't have one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Eureka! (5.12a)
By: Nelson Day When: Feb 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : The Sorcerer : Sorcerer's Crossing (5.12-) : Photo
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice color coordination clothing and accessories for the photo!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I also found this to be one of the hardest .11a's I have done in the park. I would equate it with hot rocks as well. I passed the bolt no problem. The real meat of the climb begins with the thin overhanging rattly finger cracks with improbable gear. I fell from the stance above the bolt before I could reach to place gear (feet almost to the bad jam which was too large for me to jam). I took a pretty hard fall- about 15 feet, nearly factor 2 I would say. I stopped about 4 feet above my belayer's ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent. The finger crack is amazing. Flows really well, protects well (gear is a bit fiddly - imagine placing cams or nuts in super grainy granite with large crystals, because this is what you will be doing!). I placed a number 2 about 10 feet off the deck, then placed a number 1 above it and removed the number two. Then worked up to the rest where the traverse starts, placed the number 2 again to the left, and took out the number one. Backed up the number 2 with a number 3 about 5 feet to th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good beta on gear (double up to 0.5, single up to BD3). I took a double rack of aliens and single 0.75, 1, 2, 3. Lots of slings (I took 14). Did to the top of pitch 4. All excellent pitches! Thank you for the bolt replacement


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Little Brown Jug (5.6)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The OP indicated cams for anchors. This has a bolted anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Nelson Day When: Nov 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I would have given this route more stars except I hate hanging belays! The bolting doesn't even make sense at the anchor spots. On two of the hanging belays, there was a reasonable (more reasonable at any rate) spot just next to the hanging belay that would have been much more comfortable. I know, I know, suck it up right?

The anchor at the top of pitch 3 is still missing a bolt.

Bring 20 draws and link pitches 2 and 3. Really.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: Nelson Day When: Oct 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I took 5 0.75 (green c4) cams and used all of them. You burn one right off the bat on the section before the roof. The upper section takes them well. I also took 9 #1 (red C4) and placed all of them. Such a good line! I didn't place any finger sized pieces. I did place one #3 c4 at the pod at the base of the main crack (just above the roof). I placed a couple #2 (yellow c4) cams as well at the roof.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: Nelson Day When: Oct 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Plaque at the bottom says .12-, which was what the FA party gave it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fred (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Sep 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route certainly keeps your attention. The upper bolts are pretty run out. I would recommend being pretty solid at sustained .10+ climbing before leading this. It is definitely a cerebral climb; there isn't much given to you and the cruxes are sequency. I certainly wouldn't want to fall on any of the mantles. After the first bolt I ran it about 12 feet and placed a tiny brass nut. I ran it about 15 feet above the nut before getting to the second bolt, and had to mantle to clip it. ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P4 on this was an intense lead. The pro in the last 50 feet to the anchors is bad and extremely fiddly. A heads up pitch for sure. The rock is somewhat dirty, slippery and exfoliating, which adds to your concerns (probably due to the fact that this route turns into a water fall when it rains - I witnessed this first hand). I destinctly remembering wanting to shit my pants near the top of the 4th pitch when I was 40 feet above good gear and looking at another hard(er) series of movements to easie... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Green Arch (5.11c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Led this thing on 8/24/13. It really is excellent. The pitons were in good shape, but I backed most of them up with gear. DMM offset nuts were great, as well as small cams (C3's, aliens). I brought the BD micro nuts (the steel nuts) but didn't place any. Super high quality route, and very sustained. The topo in the new Bob Gains book is a little misconceiving. I left the arch about 8 feet too early and ended up somewhere one on of the mechanics route pitches? Stopped at a really good finger crac... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Onyx Summit Crag : Cliptomania (5.12a)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Without route beta, this would be a very difficult onsight. Took a while to figure out the big move left (the crux move). The arete above is simply excellent rock and great movement. Definitely recommend.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Walla Walla Wash : Just the Tip (5.10b/c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Contrived. Yes, you can climb it, by why bother with so many other good climbs up at Yellow Pine wall?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si...
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are some new rap anchors. Thanks to whever put them up! They are directly climbers left of Dilly Bar.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Slap Happy (5.12c)
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Haha ok. Well I really enjoyed this route. It's a good relief from classic "crimp and pimp" style harder routes. Strong and interesting beta with a good variety of moves.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We had kids at the cliff. A 4 year old, a 10 year old, and a 12 year old. The 10 and 4 year old didn't want to climb, but the 12 year old did. We just had to sign a guardian waiver for him.

Prices were as follows last weekend:
Camping - $5/person (doesn't include swimming)
Climbing - $8/person
Swimming (for kids 12 and under) - $4/person

Camping area was nice with fire rings and a good gravel base to set tents up on, shade trees, and camp tables. The tables were falling apart, so bring some ... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Slap Happy (5.12c)
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Called O Slap Happy in the guide book


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: +1 for the 70m linkup of pitches 1&2 as posted. We solo'd up to the 5.8 bulge and belayed there. I was on double 60m ropes and was short of the base of the dihedral by about 40 feet when I stopped and built an intermediate belay. I think I had about 25 feet of rope left and didn't want to run out of rope before making the belay. The first 5.9 pitch is heads up - don't fall! If you are a budding 5.10 leader, I would not recommend this climb. A leader in the party ahead of us took a really nasty ... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This place is home to some of the best climbs I have done in the Big Bear area. Excellent view, great quality rock, and numerous excellent trad lines make this definitely worth the hike, which is also beautiful.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Public Hanging (5.11d)
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bold lead. Kudos for those who lead this! The grade felt true to the area (.11d), but I didn't lead it so I wouldn't rate it per se. Probably easier if you're tall (I'm 5'8")


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>