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Save the Best for Last, Ten Sleep, WY


Member Since: Jun 29, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Neil Wachowski


Point Rank: # 4,844
Total Points: 71
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (393) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (11) | Comments (6) | Posts (4) | Stars (355) | Ratings (16)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Barnum Route

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a (16)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall

Jul 21, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Lower 2/3 of The Barnum Route.  The crux is right off the deck and the second boulder problem is the bulge whose bottom half is at the top of this photo.

Lower 2/3 of The Barnum Route. The crux is right off the deck and the second boulder problem is the bulge whose bottom half is at the top of this photo.

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Barnum Route (5.12a)

Jul 21, 2011

July 2011: After rockfall. Not sure what shape the route is in.  It looked like the bolts were still there, but there are some dings on the face.

July 2011: After rockfall. Not sure what shape the route is in. It looked like the bolts were still there, but there are some dings on the face.

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Save The Best For Last (5.11)

Jul 21, 2011

September 2009: before rockfall. Note the roof on the right facing dihedral.

September 2009: before rockfall. Note the roof on the right facing dihedral.

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Save The Best For Last (5.11)

Jul 21, 2011

Starting the roof.

Starting the roof.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Steve's Wimpout (5.10)

Apr 11, 2011

Save the Best for Last, Ten Sleep, WY

Save the Best for Last, Ten Sleep, WY

Neil Wachowski : Misc

Feb 26, 2010

Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.

Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Small Fry (5.12a)

Sep 29, 2008

Randy on Citadel.

Randy on Citadel.

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Citadel (5.11b)

Sep 29, 2008

Duncan on Monstrosity as viewed from the side.

Duncan on Monstrosity as viewed from the side.

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Monstrosity (5.10b/c)

Sep 29, 2008

A not-so-clear photo of me just above the roof on Pulley Mammoth.  The bolt on the side of the roof seems really far away when you're up there trying to clip it!

A not-so-clear photo of me just above the roof on Pulley Mammoth. The bolt on the side of the roof seems really far away when you're up there trying to clip it!

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Pulley Mammoth (5.11+)

Sep 29, 2008

Randy near the top of Two Hearts.

Randy near the top of Two Hearts.

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Two Hearts (5.11b/c)

Sep 29, 2008

Me approaching the crux moves on Bozo No No.

Me approaching the crux moves on Bozo No No.

CO : Denver South : ... : Bozo No No (5.11a)

Sep 29, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Drumstick Direct (5.10+)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Indeed, an insane amount of bird shit. Like sticking your mitts in crunchy peanut butter. I know I would love this climb if it were clean.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: The p2 10a variation gets little mention, but I thought it was worthwhile. The initial 10a bit is short, and climbing on the prow after is cruiser and fun, but the subsequent section on the west face is the most noteworthy IMO. Route finding can be tricky, since the holds and cracks are hard to see, but there are a lot of options. I took a path consistently up and right to a notch on the ledge, using mostly face moves with the occasional jam. It felt consistent with the 10a rating, mostly due to... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) (5.10a)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Six bolts still remain on this route, which matches the guidebook description. If you wish to secure the (easier) portion of the route after the bolts dry up then bring a small cam or medium stopper or two.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Apr 27, 2009

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Comments: Just thought I'd add that, after the initial moves, P2 is 5.8-ish and protects very well


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Sep 28, 2008

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Comments: Followed entire route. Leader linked first two pitches and belayed from top of P2, putting long slings on pro near the first anchor. Felt comfortable to be belayed this way. As others have said, since I was fortunate enough to be able to focus just on the climbing and not on my nerves, P1 felt like 10a.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Norman Rockshoes (5.9)
By: Neil Wachowski When: Sep 1, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Perhaps this route just doesn't play to my strengths, but I had a harder time with the crux on this than The Rack. I finally got it when I found the finger pocket, but it definitely didn't come easily. Maybe I'm missing something.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Android Beta Test NotesiPhone & Android App FeedbackNeil WachowskiApr 5, 2012
re: Recruiting Android Beta TestersMountain Project NewsNeil WachowskiApr 2, 2012
re: Evolv Geshido?Climbing Gear DiscussionNeil WachowskiJul 27, 2011
re: Friends of Aaron MartinuzziInjuries and AccidentsNeil WachowskiNov 11, 2010

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Gym Arete Direct 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Fallout 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle

The Flying Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Meeker

Supercrack of the Desert 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

Anunnaki 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Hung Like a Horse 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill

O.D.K. 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...

Heavy Weather 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

CO : Shelf Road : The Bank

Topaz 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

CO : South Platte : ... : The Headstone

Critic's Choice 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Critic's Choice

D7 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond

Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Wyoming Flower Child 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Sector Shinto

Big Guy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

South Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Petit Grepon

Dos Hermanos 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon

Hanoi Hilton 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam

Killer Karma 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Oblivion Roof

I Just Do Eyes 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Back Forty

School's Out 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Happiness in Slavery 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall

Center El Shinto 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Sector Shinto

Vanishing Point 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

CO : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock

Straw Turkey 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CO : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock

Johnny Cat 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

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