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Member Since: Oct 31, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 8, 2011
Contact neil chelton


Point Rank: # 1,370
Total Points: 444
Last Year: 0
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11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has neil chelton been climbing?










Contributions


All 385 | Routes 22 | Areas 4 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 6 | Stars 240 | Ratings 69

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Knight With a Shining Stick (A3)
By: neil chelton When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: Useful toys to bring on this one:

4 each #0 and #1 heads (incase fixed heads are missing), a few heads in the bigger sizes, circle heads, all sizes of beaks and hooks.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Shortest Straw (A4-)
By: neil chelton When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: I somehow managed to bumble my way up this thing in June 2011, heres a trip report: supertopo.com/tr/The-Shortest-...

And heres some relevant info:

Pitch 1: (130' A3+) A C1 start lures you into some fixed heads, reachy hooks and other nastyness. Put good hangers on the rivets because they're probably the only things that would stop you hitting the ground. A solid beak/arrow crack leads up to a strenuous pull through a roof.

Pitch 2: (140' A3) Straightfo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Unknown Rock
By: neil chelton When: May 20, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know the real name of this rock?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Bazooka (A3 R)
By: neil chelton When: Jan 2, 2011

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Comments: There is no fixed gear on this route, and it is possible to hand-place almost all of the pitons.

I think it could go free at a much harder grade than I can climb, perhaps hard 5.12. The rock isn't as solid as you might like it to be and it would definitely be X-rated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Jaws : East Face Left (5.3 X)
By: neil chelton When: Dec 25, 2010

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Comments: There is a variation beginning 20 feet to the right which goes straight up the middle of the slab. This offers slightly more protection (5.3R, 150 feet). Small cams useful.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : W.C. Fields Pinnacle : A Very Ament's Slab (5.8)
By: neil chelton When: Dec 11, 2010

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Comments: Great climb. Seemed to be extremely runout in places with some rather gymnastic moves through the bulges.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Angel's Wings aka Devil's W...
By: neil chelton When: Dec 9, 2010

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Comments: The Angel's Wings are also known as the Devil's Wings.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: neil chelton When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: Nice pants, Bill!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: neil chelton When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: An interesting variation on the first section is to climb inside the cave/arch, traversing all the way to the back where it is possible to squeeze up through a short chimney (looks impossible at first). This will land you higher up on the east face and an easy scramble straight up will get you back on route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Leprechaun Promenade (5.10b R)
By: neil chelton When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: It's 'R' rated if you only take 3 quick-draws up there. However, theres at least 2 good gear placements between each bolt and after the last bolt. Bring small cams and nuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Schmoe's Nose : North Nostril (5.6)
By: neil chelton When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: The last 'booger' is currently very unstable. It defies all laws of physics that is still there. It's possible to use jug holds on the left of the boogers to avoid pulling a half-ton rock on your belayer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Deviation, Lower : East Face, Lower Deviation (5.8 R)
By: neil chelton When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: I also attempted a route on the left side of the east face. The guidebook explains this goes at 5.0, so I just wandered up there without a rope. After about 70 feet, I encountered surprisingly hard moves on crumbling rock, this felt at least 5.8, not 5.0. I also retreated. Has anyone climbed this?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Crackin' Up (5.6 R)
By: neil chelton When: Jan 16, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure if this is a first ascent or not, but I can't find it in any guidebooks or websites, so I climbed the thing and gave it a name. The crack is currently filled with mud, making protection harder to place. More traffic up this awesome route should clear it out. It's totally worth the extra uphill hike to reach this beauty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : North Ridge/Gregory Flatiro... (5.2 R)
By: neil chelton When: Dec 25, 2009

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Comments: Pitch one variation:

Start 100ft up and left (east) of the toe of the buttress. Aesthetically ascend the sparsely protected slab on solid positive crimps to a tree. Continue directly up on easier ground with better protection to reach the big blocky ledge on the arete (5.5R 130ft). This avoids the original crumbly lichenous start.