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Just a few more moves... Thanks to Eric for hangin...


Member Since: Nov 6, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1691 | Routes 225 | Areas 34 | Photos 427 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 206 | Posts 262 | Stars 523 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Unknown 12 (5.12a)
By: nbrown When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Rebolted this one today. The old bolts looked horrendous but actually weren't as bad as they appeared. Much better now though.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : The Underworld
By: nbrown When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Taylor,
This pic of the Gold Coast shows the northern "canyons". The Underworld is just a bit south (left in picture) of what you can see in this photo. The best approach takes the shortcut shown here on the left side of the pic (down from the high ridge), and those directions are posted on the main Gold Coast page. Just be prepared for a potentially raging bushwhack if no one's been through there lately. Once at the RJ trail walk south for maybe 5-10 minutes (haven't been there in a while so do... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Original Route (5.9)
By: nbrown When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Two of the bolts on this line were updated in '96 with carbon steel 5 pieces. They're quite rusty but probably still pretty bomber. The other two (original bolts) are about 50 years old and should not be trusted - and they're not needed if you place a bit of gear next to them, as mentioned above.

A stopper in the initial seam and a hand size cam in a horizontal above gets you to the bolt line safely. Also, the original bolt line was actually a bolt ladder (aid), meaning that clipping just the 2... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Conley Cove : Photo
By: nbrown When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Jonathan - yes, that's the one.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Cool, that makes sense. Thanks for the beta!


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Bimbo's Bulge (5.11b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff!


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Was up here today trying to figure out which route this was (it'd been over 10 years so my memory was fuzzy). Looks like Tim replaced the pin with a bolt (pin scar right above it), but I couldn't locate any lower first bolt. There were a few rusty wedge bolts just to the right of this line that must be Seths route. Is the left hand line in the pic below correct?
Route?
Route?



Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Casual Corner (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: The big loose block (that most people pulled on) near the top was trundled a while back making for a safer but slightly more interesting move.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : Moonshine Canyon : Photo
By: nbrown When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: For reference: The Underworld is the steep wall at the top of this photo.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef...
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This wall isn't a terrible option while the gates are closed to the main areas. Just go on a dry day and maybe consider bringing a brush along.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Moonwalk (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun short route. It had become overgrown with grunge in the 10 years since the FA but I spent a good bit of time cleaning it the other day. Super grippy rock now, go get at it!


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: A few days ago there was a report of two bolts pulling out at Catheys Creek Crag. Today I had a chance to go inspect and here’s what I found: ALL hardware intact and accounted for. I did not climb every route, but could easily count each bolt on every route, and they were all there. Short of someone putting the two pulled bolts back into the bolt hole and re-setting them (highly unlikely), or perhaps an undocumented obscure line off to the side (also highly unlikely), I found no issues of conce... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Blue Nude (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Okay, thanks for the clarification.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Going for Baroque (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: The pin on the original start fell out in my hand today. However, I managed to excavate enough rock from that crack to open up a bomber .75 camelot slot instead. Regardless, it's probably better and safer to climb the left start anyway.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Stiff Upper Lip (5.11+)
By: nbrown When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, got it.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Blue Nude (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: Bruce, isn't matisse down on the far right side of the main wall? If I got them wrong I'll change it.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
By: nbrown When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Just a note: I recently changed out the rap hangers above Irish Jig with a set of my own (quicklink-ring combo) to facilitate a better rope pull, as well as to keep the hangers from getting all wonky (like they have been).
The new set that should pull easier.
The new set that should pull easier.



Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Old Crow (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: The missing first bolt hanger has been replaced. Please be kind and don't take the shiny-clippy things home as souvenirs!


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Main Face : Peelin' Feelin' (5.10c/d PG13)
By: nbrown When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: There is a harder 2 bolt variation just left of the wide corner. It goes at about 11b or so and is a good alternative if the crack is wet or if you don't have big cams. Also, there is an un-named 11b/c route that climbs straight off the anchor (right of Peelin's second pitch) to a separate anchor -- This is fun but not as good as Peelin'.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Sibling Revelry (5.11c)
By: nbrown When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch of this thing is super cool!

Sean, here's the plaque:

The Plaque
The Plaque



Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North : Route of Northern Aggressio... (5.11 A1)
By: nbrown When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: I did the first 2 pitches a couple weeks ago, and I think that short of two moves on pitch 2, the route is very doable in the 11 range. However, getting into the dihedral is probably 12+, and there is a blank face move up high that would likely be harder. It's an awesome feature and someone should go free this thing! Pitch 3 looks fun but I haven't gotten to it yet.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Annie Get Your Guns (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: T, that was a project of Andrew's that I don't think ever went free.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North : Bayne's Corner (5.9)
By: nbrown When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: FYI, I recently spent some time cleaning this one up a bit and it's a lot better now. A fun albeit short pitch. Actually if it were longer it'd be every bit as good as many a North Side (Looking Glass) pitches. Also, there is now a free second pitch through the roof dihedral above, it's called "The Route of Passive Aggression" ~ 12a.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Guillotine (5.11c/d)
By: nbrown When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: Rout was recently extended all the way to the Peregrine roof in 2 pitches. The upper pitch is way fun if you're into thin edging high off the ground. See updated description for details.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : North Carolina Wall : Southeast arete (of the Cam... (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Admins, I'd like to move this route under the new area The Camel if possible please. I can't delete it or move it myself. Thanks!


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