Contributed Comments |
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talking Tough (5.9)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Jun 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this again,a nd I would agree that there is no runout. Also, looking at my old book...it shows that the beginning is in the crack system right of the piton. This makes it a little safer beginning. Finally, I had forgotten how magnificent a finish this route has.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : One Time at Band Camp (5.11b)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Jun 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lol TP
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : 3 Amigos (5.9+)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Jun 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly fun, and awkward off the ledge.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talkin' Them Broken Foot Bl... (5.10d)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Jun 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route has now been bolted. Also, we changed the route name to reflect an incident experienced by Adam on the FA.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Diminishing Returns (5.11b)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Jun 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A BD #8 or a yellow Metolius will protect the initial moves. If this route is a 5.11b then Winky and Waxman is like a 5.10b. This is considerably harder than I expected, but I wasn't climbing real well. The line seemed a bit contrived as well. Not a bad line, just not anything special.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Mountain Monkey Swing (5.9+ PG13)
By: Nathan Fisher When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: For historical reasons, I will leave it as is.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Power Plant : Wavebreak Wall : Wave Break (5.11a R)
By: Nathan Fisher When: May 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another good route that could be better without the stretch of loose rock. Some very fun moves near the bolt and the finish is great. This anchor could use a replacement. I also believe that this route could sew up. The Straight up variation seemed contrived. Maybe just a way to clip a bolt to feel safer.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Power Plant : Wavebreak Wall : Jagged Edge (5.8)
By: Nathan Fisher When: May 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line with some great air, but as Ryan said it may not be for the 5.8 leader. I remember at the crux thinking, how good was my last piece because I didn't like the pieces at the crux. Good rock generally.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : One Time at Band Camp (5.11b)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Apr 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maddog,
Not yet. Anytime you want to get out and get it (as long as you don't drop me :) ) let me know. I took all winter off and am ready for it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Hangman (5.9+)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Apr 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think right and up from Plumbline would be correct?
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Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Casual Slander (5.9)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Feb 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another acceptable Black Rocks climb. Short and fun.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Volcanic Therapy (5.7)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Feb 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Safe lead.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Cyclops (5.10a)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Feb 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great little route. Seemed soft for a 5.10a.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Pipe Dreams (5.10a R)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Oct 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: About as scary a lead as I have ever attempted. I passed the one placement that I shouldn't have and my head thanked me as I let my second take the lead beyond the ledge. As Ryan said, "Do not pass up a placement". If you do not find the sequence at the lip excpect a hard 10 move to pop the lip. Very fun route with some cool moves.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Flight 714 (5.11a)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Oct 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My third route of the tower. I did cheat and TR this, but only because I was doing it at night with a headlamp. Would have been a cool lead. Very fun with a cool crimpy mid-section. Didn't love the anchors up top though.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Tintin Does Doughnuts (5.9-)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves and impeccable rock, with one exception...a loose hold at the top-out. Top two bolts are scary leeper hangers. Beware.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, just got back from the Tower and we chose Tad as our means to break into and top out on the Tower. Thoroughly enjoyed it. First pitch, like most before me have said, was the odd fist/hand/offwidth moves, but good face holds to break them up. The 2nd pitch just kept coming at me. Consistent and long, with nary a comfortable rest. Well worth the flight for one long route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8) : Photo
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: bump
otherwise known as Hand Jive :)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover, Original... (5.9+)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled. That is why I knocked this version down to three stars...not as sustained and fun.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We felt it was easier to go right of the crack, using the finger rail. Then, jam a left hand jam and pop it. Good short route, but a rope eater.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great line. Don't miss this one. I felt a tad harder than Bloody Fingers, and a lot less secure. I remember thinking to myself as I looked up at it, "This doesn't look all that great". Man, was I wrong.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : The Pygmies Got Stoned (5.10a)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe 9 draws plus two for the anchors. A high first bolt and well-spaced bolts in the easier ground. I believe between 2 and 3 was the worst, but not runout. A really nice line with great moves. The brown face in the middle just keeps coming at you. Would get 4 stars if the climbing was like that all the way. The finish almost spat me off as I was clipping the chains. Well worth climbing.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Wheat Thin (5.7)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic. Much better than Rye Crisp. Don't get sucked into the large crack at the end. Use the face.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Sinsemilla (5.8 X)
By: Nathan Fisher When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straightforward climbing, on positive holds.
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